oh what a nissan feeling!

i would like to mate but $$ is too short right now to buy an ecu. Great to see you got it sorted, i think it will start a trend around here. Ls1 coils will be ha4d to beat on your setup.

Well done mate, looks awesome.

Wow that sounds cool, great to hear yhe support is picking up again.

What!!!!! How did i miss that, ah well.

For the radiator hoses i needed a crossover pipe for the bottom, and needed to reverse the thermostat housing. To reverse the thermostat housing i needed to build one of the edges up with alloy because the housing was offset from factory. Worked out ok. I got some pipe from the exhaust shop for the crossover and joiner pipes. I got the engine started today, runs quite good, still no throttle cable, choke, reverse lights, ect, so still a bit to do. Also got the brakes bled today. Was a real pain, the bleed nipple snapped off the front calliper, had to carefully drill it out and put a new bleed screw in, was successful but annoying. So now the brakes work.

assembled the front end. I had to extend the top piece for the radiator support, since the new hole is so big it no longer reached. Made up the top supports for the radiator. Not really that happy with how they look, probably should have moved the mounting points to the side of the radiator.

radiator mounting. I made up these things for the bottom mount, using some shackle rubbers. painted and mounted.

Hey mate. Its turismo mica holden commodore 2004. It is just as impressive in real life. Expensive though as its a group 4 colour because of so much green pearl.

I still used the factory loom lengths on mine, i drilled a new hole out of the firewall up high under the guard, the loom still runs around under the radiator to the other side can't see it though.

I will be there Reed, doing a wax today, then get there early i think.

I mad3 a turbo heat shield out of stainless, its fully shiny yo.

I had cut the engine mounts off the crossmember previously, luckily i found the mounts in the car with the rest of the junk. So i welded them back into position. Then engine and gearbox in. I only had a ke30 tailshaft, very surprised the length is correct, matt you were right!!. So i bolted up the gearbox, tailshaft, engine, and speedo cable under there. The radiator support is cut out to suit an sr20 radiator, so i guess thats what i will be using. To make the radiator fit better though it needed some changes to the bottom tank. I cut some bits out on both sides. My alloy welding is especially crap this time, has been months since I've used the welder. fits perfectly now!

Cheers gents, yep have welded them back on now, black paint on its way!

Legally you can chop 1/3 off them i believe it was. As for how big they used to be who knows......

yes i do carlos, if only the shed had the height to allow it. cheers! progress. New carpet fitted, turned out good, seats are back in. Fuel tank painted and installed back in the car. Auto pedals out. manual pedals in. new brake master cylinder installed, all hooked up and ready to bleed now.

Since powercruise last month i have been working on my other corolla, decided to get it going and have it as my work car for awhile. Ive had this car probably 8 years, it was a flawless body when i got it, not long after i gave it a bare metal 2 pack respray, then drove it to work for a few years. I cooked it on the way home one day, so i parked it up for probably the last 5 years. Last year i decided to put one of my spare sr20's in it, but after doing most of the needed mods the idea just didnt feel right, so i abandoned that idea and left it until now. So this is where I'm at, factory 4k 1300cc, 5 speed box, standard everything. The first thing i have done was strip the engine bay to bare metal, this was not done when i originally resprayed the car, i simply sprayed over the existing paint because the motor was still in there. Engine bay is now finished in 2 pack entirely. The new powerplant, yep all 30 horsepower i recon. I bought a set of 14 x 6.5 ssr longchamps for it, they need plenty of love but were well priced, i really wanted watanabe for this one but the xr4's were cheap so both my cars now run the same wheels. Up until now the car has been auto, first a 2 speed toyoglide, then the trimatic, i hace slowly been collecting parts over the years: manual pedal box, and some decent stainless gutter trims. I bought new moulded carpet for the floor, the old stuff was kinda rank. When i removed the old carpet there was some lifted tar with a bit of surface rust. I scraped off all loose tar mostly under the drivers seat area, treated and removed the rust, then today I painted the whole floor with 2 pack to seal it properly. the colour used is a mix of leftover paint from various builds, beats paying for a litre. Tomorrow i will spray black over any parts of the floor that might be seen. Tonight while the interior is all out i scrubbed it with sugar soap, the front seats are not so good these days with a few splits, the rear is still overrated.

Use side cutters to grip the spring, Works every time.

Yeh its on the 1st of november, i might check when the nothlakes one is on.

Yep cheers mate just had a look, will be on holidays then, will check when the next masters is on.

Tomorrow night? I'm very likely in as well, as carlos said nrl is over so no need to rush off to catch the game

Use paint stripper for all of it mate, all the tight spots as well, just get all sorts of scraper shapes. Remember too that blasting does not remove tar, so get that off anywhere first. Fix the rust after the blasting is done, then you know exactly what needs to be fixed.

etching just the bare metal will be fine, you will likely get a better finish if you undercoat the whole lot, but not required. 600 is more than enough. No need for clear if its a non metallic paint, i wouldnt bother. Make the first coat really light and see if you can get some cover in those tight areas. I use less thinners in my paint in the engine bay, less chance of runs. Put more thinners in for a final coat and just spray the main areas to give them good gloss. I also turn the air pressure right down for the tight areas

yep me too, stil got still get a buzz everytime i drive it. Unless you plan on circuit racing there is little advantage in the ke70 rearend. the ke30 rear end is far better for drag racing.

"walking around under the car", really? ffs think before you type.

That is a good run, 1.8 60ft, and pretty close with the mph too. Nice work mate.