NickAE86

lets say the motor is a dud...can you deal with having to rebuild it? (time, money etc). If you can't then don't risk it...keep looking and hopefully you'll get a running 1/2 cut at a decent price theres not much else you can do beyond what mr revhead has suggested & if its been sitting for long time... :D plan for the worst but hope for the best...at least you can't be disappointed :P

the only rally game ive ever played thats been any good is Colin Mcrae 05

I came across this on another forum but just had to post it here...it cracked me up apologies if its old http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.as...MVIEWTMP=Linear

and the referencing to rotten.com... poor taste but not real thankfully

yep robin is good. I havent found anyone that can beat him on price, turnover time or professionalism

you could always try the ae101 gze motor and turbo it later on. The gze alone can be heaps of fun or with a turbo, it may not spin 5th, but will produce more than enough useable horsepower. 3sgte would be a sweet motor but it'll set you back a few $$$

paul crossley from http://www.crossleyracing.com.au/home/default.htm has had some experience with them. There's also another guy at the shop thats a guru with high hp n/a motors (mainly v8's) who might be good to chat to...i can't remeber his name though :insane:

http://www.gixxerkart.com/ I'm sure you've all seen it before but its still a sweet vid

I'm out...have a bucks party to attend

correct stewart (oldcorollas) from toymods is a metallurgist (sp?) and has analysed the composition of the gze pistons and concluded they are forged...there are sticky threads somewhere on both twincam & toymods not much...maybe 1500...ae101 1/2 cuts are going for between 2-2.5k (used to be around 1800)..i havent priced the aw11 in a while but its getting pretty "outdated" as far as import engines are concerned so theres gotta be some savings there

aw11 - late 80's/early 90's AFM ae92 - mid/late 90's AFM/MAP ae101 - late 90's MAP only difference (so ive heard :jason: )between 92 & 101 is that the 101 has some lightened internals...101's are in demand atm which makes the 92's a little bit cheaper Variations & Specs

this should get you started bodykits: main types are jblood, vertex, cby http://www.j-blood-na.com/index.php (USA Based) http://www.cby.jp/revinof.htm http://www.hioctaneracing.com.au/parts_ae86.htm info: http://www.club4ag.com/ (USA based..excellent site) parts: http://www.technotoytuning.com/ (USA Based) as far as getting a levin front end goes your best bet would be to source one locally or from canada (theres a decent ae86 scene there) otherwise for the costs involved you'd be better off importing a whole car from japan

that'd be a bull shark....i saw a doco on sharks on world around us. The bull shark is the only shark that can survive in fresh water (up to 2yrs...these are also the sharks in the brissy river & gold coast canals) great whites have almost been hunted to extinction...people think they are "the" man-eaters when in actual fact its the bull shark..the great white comes in at number 4 or something another useless fact: the movie Jaws was spawned from an incident in 1918 when 1 person was eaten & 2 seriously injured in a canal in sticksville by what they assumed was a great white...we now know today that is was a bull shark

thats not too bad i guess...i take it bait & lines are provided...maybe even a sandwhich for lunch? either way would be heaps of fun to get on the drink and reel in some big mofo marlons :)

Some nice catches there guys well, if you're really lazy like me then Norman Creek can be good for a bit of fun (ie: don't eat the fish). Ive fished a few spots along it & the best by far is on the jetty next to Easts Soccer Club (next to Churchie). I've caught numerous bream & whiting and once got a 60cm threadfin salmon..and of course the ever present catfish :) its amazing the difference live bait makes...a cast net is invaluable good idea...i wonder how much it costs to charter a boat for some deep sea goodness...prolly a small fortune :)

coorparoo skatee bowl has a decent 1/2 pipe & "street" track. The pipe isnt that high and its pretty smooth so if you do stack it odds are you'll just slide to the bottom. I reckon its a good place to learn how to skate...lots of variation & jumps/tricks don't need to be big...mind you i still can't skate for shit but ive had lots of fun trying :)

theres a vid floating around somewhere of a red levin drifting thats done the ute thing...it looks pretty damn good but still... :) anyone know the one I'm talking about? i havent been able to find the vid since my hard drive crashed ae86's only became overrated when the fully sic bros watched ID and thought they could be like Takumi...i curse that cartoon...that said they're still a great little car

I'm not overly familiar with the terminology but i was under the impression you only had to do that if the piston didnt remain seated/captive? (ie: normal operating conditions) i havent done this before on my car but ive watched a mate do it to his panel van, gemi & rodeo and in all 3 cases once the pads had been removed the piston did start to move but very slowly in which time he put a clamp on etc etc...he's never once bled his brakes and they work fine on all 3 cars. Is this just a holden thing or totally the wrong thing to do?

no t series diffs from the jdm levins made it to aus as such (and as you all prolly know) we only recieved the crappy s series drum version. The s series is not compatable with a sprinter lsd as they are made for the t series. Zenki axles are more common but then again anything Zenki is more common, cheaper & easier to find. I have the larger splined Kouki axle in my t series rear end...the difference is minimal..24 spline vs 25 spline but parts are not interchangable $1400 nz is $1275 aus....a decent price for brand new...second hand can be sourced for $800 aus you also need to take into consideration (if you're converting from an s series to t series) the need to shorten the tailshaft as the output on the t series is larger anything t series from 83-mid 85 is safe as parts are sourced easier...mid 85-end of 87 is Kouki territory & uber hard to find + $$$ it wasnt a production run and the chances of finding the genuine article these days is nill...s series is all we got

i classify old school as anything thats still made of the good stuff...metal...not crappy plastic

what year is it? at a minimum run unleaded...personally id run premium the japanese sprinters ie: levins, came with a 4age so unleaded is a must unless you picked up a carby ae85

hey subsonic check this out http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.php?t=m...2247062929d7b35 he's in wa so might be able to help you out..or at least point you in the right direction

EBC greenstuff is my pick...i always wait to brake until the last minute & i want something that i knows gonna pull me up when i need it to...no fade, no dust bendix havent been too harsh when i've used them but they don't come anywhere near ebc in quality i've never heard anything positive about ferodo until this thread...but i havent used them so i can't comment its only an extra $80 for a set of ebc over bendix...worth it imo...brakes & tyres are the most important parts on a car

some good sites there...i'll just list ones i go to that havent been mentioned yet www.fenslerfilm.com - funnies: GI Joe cartoon movies...a must see http://www.homestarrunner.com/toons.html - funnies:Strong Bad & Teen Girl Squad http://www.flamehq.com/ - funnies http://members.optusnet.com.au/extremescan...auspol/qld.html] - comes in handy if you have a scanner http://www.technotoytuning.com/ - parts http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/ - tech www.billzilla.org - tech http://www.carland86.com/ - parts http://www.hioctaneracing.com.au - parts www.prestigemotorsport.com.au - importer www.j-spec.com.au - importer

nah mate...i know a few people that work there though. I'm an apprentice sparky ;) how come?