warrenfromtonny

yeah i'm in melbourne. sent a pm before about a guard, just after a drivers door, and the chrome strip that runs all the way down the drivers side(not urgent).

personally I'm a poor uni student and can't afford insurance. so answer; none. however the guy who hit me his insurance is with racv and that is who the claim is through.

yeah i'm looking around at the moment for replacement panels for the car. this could reduce the fix cost and make the insurance cover it. as far as i can see after the gaurd and door are replaced the cost to fix should be minimal. the reson they see it as a lot of damage is because they wont replace parts just repair the bent ones. cheers for the support will keep you updated as it unfolds cheers matt

just got back from the guy. he thinks it's a write off. needs new gaurd and door. thinks i might get around $1000 and can keep the car. far short on the expectation i had.

Hi i used to own a nice neat KE11 until some bloke in his Parado dicided he wanted to run it over. The guy is in the wrong and has admitted it and his insurance is going to take care of it. but my car was in primer as it is a work in progress, but had never missed a beat and passed a roadworthy 18 months ago with all new steering and bushes. Having a quick look around, redbook and carsales only value the car between $1200-$2700, i've spent more than that on the car in the last 4 years to get it on the road. looking at the damage; drivers front quarter pannel, drivers door, and just behind the door are all squashed in (the gaurd is more than 4 inches from its original position), the inner door handle (plastic at top of door card) and the chrome strip resembles a pretzle. my concern is that the car will be written off. the car still drives fine and there is no damage to the sill or anything structural, exception being the door hinge mount. taking to get it looked at around 1pm today. wondering if anyone has had experience on this and what sort of result should i expect. sorry i don't have any pics as my (not so) smartphone has also shit itself. cheers matt

Thanks for the replies. i'm deciding to stick it out and put the ke1x stuff back on as i don't have any ke2x pulleys at my disposal. later on i might look into the ke2x with a newer fan and less fatigue. however need to go rat more parts off the ke20sl i've got hidden away at the parents before that can happen. thanks again for the input cheers matt

Hey I'm the proud owned of a KE11 3k. water pump is on the way out and need to get a new one before the bearing throws out altogether. What i have noticed is there is different part numbers for 1k 3k and 4k but in the case of the KE11 it shares the part number with the 1k despite being a 3k. the engine is the original 3k and i want to know which one to get. i noticed from pictures that the 3k ke20 onward(Part# WP797) has a longer exposed shaft than the 1k and ke11 3k(Part# WP757). so i'm assuming the only difference is the shaft length, and i would need a different pully if i was fitting the more common and available one, other issue i see is that it may hit the radiator. in that case should i match the water pump to the body or the engine. i would prefer to put the ke20 3k one on if possible as it is about $40 cheaper and much more variety in brands as most other brands have stoped producing it. any help would greatly be appriciated cheers matt

remove steering box :yes: should be a few in the build threads on here

penrite ftw. only ever use the hpr30 (20w60) in my "k" series, suggest hpr10 or a 15w in the "a" series depending on kms. used to use the 20w50's and it only come out black and burnt. higher temp makes a massive difference. also a note. the way oil is graded the 15w40's are closer to 20w50 in cheaper brands, this is due to the 15w40 being the thinnest viscosity allowed for that grade. cheaper the brand the more variability in the range. regulations have tightened this up but still grey at best. just a note tho... matt

also GBC list the same bearing for all jap axles. so ke10 thru to ke70 should in theory be the same rear wheel bearing for the jap diff. but in saying that i've seen listings wrong before...

hey as i can see it the axles would be no stronger. the reason for this is when the ends are machined down or cut to suit the width of the ke1X housing they heat up and become brittle. this brittleness at the ends at the diff centre, point of conact, is far from ideal. this is all given that they are not annealed or re treated after the modification. the only real advantage to having the axles is the pcd change (and possibly larger brakes, unsure???). personally i would save up and put the stronger 31 diff in if that was the path you were heading anyway, but if your not chasing power and just want to open up wheel options then a cut down set of ke3X (or late ke2X, so i hear???) banjo axles are the way to go. hope this helps Matt

i have a ke11 with a factory jap diff... hop under the car to have a look. easiest way. :blinks:

hey i had the same issue when i first got my 11. if you still have the new ones then just get them rebuilt. i got 4 wheel cyl and all 4 sets of brake shoes rebonded for only like 70 bucks... but from memory i've also seen them on ebay. matt

my daily ke11, 100 percent original, no rust, good interior, with a bigport head on it. $100.

mine didn't even have any side mirrors lol. most likely tho.

second on the grinder option. one coil al a time tho. made that mistake b4 lol.

pics????

got a few at the parents hj sandman ute - mine ke11 - mine fzr205rr - mine ht belmont ute - dads softtail harley - dads ba falcon - mums 600 kawazaki - mums au III xr6 ute - brothers rodeo mini truck - brothers plus the bombs and parts cars hj premier station wagon hz belmont ute ke20 sl plus some other stuff not worth the mention

read from the thread from the start. need tacho and shift light. great thread also. keen as to give it a crack with a spark plug at the exhaust tip running off the same trigger.

i kinda fell across mine bought off an old bloke, about 80. he got done drink driving, handed in his licence and sat it under a tree for 2 years. one of my mates spotted it and told me, drove down there and gave him $100. bit of petrol down its throat and a shit battery and it started. only rust was in the spare wheel well, and a couple of dints from the mail box fifty thousand odd miles on the clock original purchase receipts from fitzroy melb and a big smile on my face :P

pity about the spf0049k bushes. i got some in thru supercheap auto in march and they came straight in. this thread might need to turn into a pettition to get falcrum to start reproducing the bushes. :P .here are the measurements if anyone one wants to get them machined up or match them to something else. rear shackle bushes OD 24mm ID 10mm Depth (includes lip) 30.6mm Lip 4.5mm these where measured of my new bushes (no wear) and you require 8 of these as for my comments b4 i was talking about things posted over the internet as a whole (not directed at felix). i generally find rolla club as a reliable source but will always double check anyway (after making the mistake of beliving the first thing i read). i found this thread and hoped i could help iron clad some things as well.

just a note people need to stop copying things off the internet and taking them for fact. the internet is full of shit most of the time the spring eyes have the following dimensions OD 34mm ID 10mm Depth 32mm Lip 7mm this is as measured off a 1970 ke11. i was generous with the depth and lip (rounding up) so that you can always sand a bit back if its you can take these measurements into supercheap, burson, or who ever and they can place a custom order or even just go and get them machined up at any half decent engineering shop, it aint hard. rear shackle kit is SPF0049K thru fulcrum/super pro, think mackay also use this part# ball joints is bj111 thru 555, bj003 thru powermax and road safe (both no longer available comercially) tierod ends are well covered previously i would only use 555 (pronounced three five) as they seem to all match without any going back and swapping things. however they have stopped producing or out of business for some reason so are only available at surplus auto parts stores. hope this helps and please don't say things that you are not sure of! i've got 200 bucks worth of bushes that are of no use to me. so unless you done it, don't give me your "expert" opintion.

nice thread i'm matt studying mechanical engineering/business at swinburne hawthorn to make fast cars for money. part time at supercheap auto thomastown for the discount on parts to save money.

is it jumpy under acceleration? if so i don't know what all the technical names are but this is how i would describe what could be going on i had a similar problem. your butterfly valve is sticky due to the bushes on the pivots ends been worn. these are not always suplied in tune up kits. what happens is when it closes (foot off accelerator) the valve is held shut/ jams due to the worn bushes letting it over rotate away from the open possition, (flooding effect). then when it finally opens the right way a shit load of air jumps down its throat and it launches off the line. the whirring noise is due to the vibrating in the valve, not knowing which way to spin. this was my problem in a 4brl. not sure if this helps and anyone else is welcome to add on, or tear my theory to $#!T.

hi these where my cars bashers: 69 vw beetle, full of rust good burnouts, paid 6pack of melb bitter, died after rollover grandfinal day lol 78 datto 200b, shit gearbox, paid slab of vic bitter(pricy), disposed of after braking an engine mount duing an attempt at flying without wings daily/soon to be retired: 75 holden sandman ute (original), forsale at the right price, but would prefer to be burried in it projet/new daily: 70 ke11, stock on 7x,xxxmiles, paid $100 of an old bloke parts: hx kingswood styleside ute, 202 3spd man column hz belmont styleside ute, 179 3spd man column hj premier stationwagon, 253 3spd auto column looking for ke1x spare car, body can be as rusty as anything only interested in the little things