Rollasrus

Hmm where do I start. see my sig line and pic for a start. At least my Suzuki sierra has a 4k in it, and as you can see I have made the carby work on some steep angles. I maybe should put pics up from when I used to own a Hilux Surf as well

ok fair enough I guess. should do like the offroad guys do to stop the shaft coming through the floor, some plating in the transmission tunnel so the shaft would not penetrate into the cabin. Was thinking for some good honest fun and for some giggles putting my 4k engined suzuki sierra in it but the tailshaft loop thing would not work as the car has too much travel to accomodate one safely.

ok but why the hell would you need to cover the tailshaft, I hve n involved inome motorsport (mostly off road and 4wd cops) and have never seen a requirement for anything as silly as that, what would the purpose of it actually be. its not like anybody is gonne go underneath the car as its driving. I am wondering how one would be mounted firstly, and the fact it would rub on your tailshaft as the rear suspension cycles up and down.

can somebody explain to me what they mean by having a 360 degree tailshaft loop?

Sounds like piston slap to me. Happened to me many years ago on my old 4ac powered ae82 rolla auto . At first I thought it was just the tappets needing adjusting but the beat of the sound was too slow at idle to be that and as time went on it became more of a clunking noise, till it let go on me at a set of lights. Put a huge crack in my block but somehow I still managed to limp it home about 5km, just jeeping the revs above 200rpm and dumping all the oil and coolant in the process. A week later got a low km jap import 3a motor for it and was a happy little P plater pizza delivery boy for 5 months till I rear ended it into the back of a starlet (It was about 10 years ago)

Many, many thanks guys, Have not had much luck though, blew my head gasket on the weekend as well. Luckily I have 2 spare 4k motors at home so I am gonna pull the head off one of them, send it away to get new valve seals etc and machined (maybe shaved to increase compression) and put it in. I have read through other threads and the head swap seems pretty easy to do, just would like to know the torque settings for the head bolts. Also would it be very easy to do the valve clearances on the head when it is off the car as they would be all closed? So now i gotta swap heads/head gasket and do the timing chain. Also does the sump have to come off the get full access to do the timing chain?

:P :( Many thanks guys

I work as a driver for Direct Freight Express and I very often see motors/ gearboxes etc on pallets that we deliver to various workshops. I know they have a major depot in every capital city I don't know the direct number for our Melbourne (as I am based in Sydney) office but just look up their web site for contact details. www.directfreight.com.au

Gday guys. Finallly got my newer 4kc into my suzuki sierra, runs well. One prob, its a little rattly, so must be the timing chain and/ or tappets. Also how common are they for failing in the meantime, as common as timing belts?? What is involved in changing the timing chain without throwing all the timing out etc. And also whats the procedure in adjusting the valve clearances, I did it once many years ago on a daihatsu Pyzar and stuffed it badly. I think you gotta get each cylender up to top dead centre before doing the valves for that one Any help guys, mainly for the timing chain bit

Bummer I missed the cruise, but some of the rainy weekends put my engine swap back a bit. Finally got the new 4k in my suzuki sierra running ok I guess, and finally got it re registered. Next cruise if one of you guys gets stuck on some thick grass my zook and the 4k can pull you out

Cheers guys, well last wekend the new 4k went into my suzuki sierra. Had to pull the radiator out bt the grille and radiator and bonnet support stayed on. Parked both mtors side by siden started off all the emmisions crap off the new motor out of a ke70. Got the much less restrictive manifolds and the suzuki sierra carby(for steep angles) off my old 4k. Oh and swapped the distrubutors too. Just about to put the motor in and we just noticed the mounts for the new gearbox and its shifter position were further back, so last minute had to swap gearboxes from each motor, seems that my sierra was done with a 4k and k50 out of a ke55 I believe?? when apart the clutch seemd pretty good anyways so we left it, plus didnt have a new clutch and at the moment can't afford one. Never do it before, nd neither did my mate that heped me with the heavier work. Well it all runs good, starts easily, and has no smoke (what a bloody relief) Only prob I have is that unless I feather the throttle it wants to stall, even when running hot. I purposely have not touched any of the bits on my carby caue it ran perfectly on my old 4k, so i assume it may have to do with ignition timing. I can get access to a timing light, just wondering what it should be set to?

I think I am out too. Shocking weather this weekend has put my 4k swap on the suzuki sierra back a week, lets hope next weekend is dry. If for some miraculous reason I get the whole swap done on saturday I will come along on sunday but I doubt it. So whens the next cruise.

Many thanks guys I will have a better look at my motor in the car and the new motor I have in the morning. One other question as well. my old motor has the nippondenso distributor with an aftermarket petronix electronic ignition kitt on it that works a treat, yet my new motor to go in has the bosch points dizzy. Whats involved in swapping them over regading getting the timing etc cxorrect and is it just the one adjusting bolt that holds it in?

Install lifting hooks on the engine lifting brackets, attach a suitable hoist This is what the manual says to do so I can pull my corolla 4k motor out to put my new one in to my suzuki sierra Question is what are the lifting hooks and where can I get them from, or are they needed or is there another way to attach the hoist to the motor?? I just don't know anything about this part of the engine swapping.

Many many thanks for your ideas and help guys I have decided though to stick with my 5 speed manual when I do the engine swap this weekend. That way I don't have to make up another custom short shaft that goes between my transaferr case and the gearbox, I wont have to make up new mounts off my chasis rails for the auto box and for the relocaion of my transferr case further back (which would possibly mean new front and rear driveshafts and new hole in transmission tunnel) and a few other things. Problem with 4 wheel driving is most of the good tracks require some out of Sydney open road driving to get there and a 3 speed auto juat aint gonna good enough for it. And to combat my need to make the car crawl much slower in low range while still meeting standard class rules I found a place in the states that makes suzuki 5.38 diff gears (much lower than my current 3.7's) Cause I got 31 in tires on it instead of the factory 29's thats increased my gearing by about 19% which has made my low range too fast and 5 th gear on road is too tall to be used on anything but down hill freeway runs. 5.38 diffs give about 45% reduction over standard 3.7's so effectively i will be about 24%lower than standard both on and off road which will mean 5 th gear becomes a usable gear, ity wont die on freeway hills anymore and low range work will be much better. But first thing is get my new 4k in there this weekend and get it re registered

Sorry mate, I did typo in an earlier thread, its not a t50 box, just a k50. Till I got on this forum I didnt know they were any different Its a k50 box but with the shifter right at the back, so i assume its from a ke70 or 55

Got a new 4k ready to put into it soon cause the old one is very smokey. Then getting some suzuki sierra 5.38 diffs to lower my current 3.7 ratio a bit so it doesnt die on big hills with the much larger tires and so Low range is much lower when crawling over the fun stuff. Should hopefully have it done for the rolla cruise to wisemans ferry next month

ok I think I am down to some nitty gritty questions Are the tailshafts off the 5 speed and the autos the same. Mainly the output yoke spline is what I am worried about?? And the actual length of the box, is it the exact same length as the 5 speed manual? To help it seems that I may be getting a 3 speed trimatic, seems to be the easierst to find, although not totally sure for certain. If the spline is different I am gonna have to get the output yoke off an auto and adapt it to connect to the uni and input flange that goes into my suzuki transferr case And if the auto is longer than the manual i have to relocate my transferr case back with new chasis mounting points etc. Luckily having a seperate ladder frams chasis makes this a whole lot easier with some scrap steel plate, an angle gringer and a mig welder, BUT WOULD PREFERR NOT TO IF I CAN GET AWAY WITH IT

Wondering what you mean when you say I gotta redo the gearbox, Nobody that i know of runs twin transfer cases in a sierra cause although its standard low range reduction is about 2.2:1 you can get 4.16's 5.14's and even 6.5's which gives over 200% reduction than standard low range, so only one case is ever needed. I would preferr to run in standard class cause I have a better chance of a placing due to the rules on the cars compared to the class up where reduction gears, diff locks, much bigger tires etc are allowed, this is why i am wanting to put an auto box tomake me more competitive within the rule book.

Cheers guys, may be pushing it heaps to get new 4k and rego done in time on the sierra, maybe have to bring my back up 4wd, my 6 inch lifted jeep cherokee, Pulling stuck rollas is easy as can be in that one. In know theres no rolla bits on it but wanna just meet up with you guys, I went on a rolla cruise many years ago when i owned my ae82 then my zze 122, Had some good times back then.

Thought about that but I already have a 4k in it thats buggered and another good 4k that should be going in soon, this is why I tought when its all apart I can throw an auto in as well

A lwb sierra is treated like gold by any member of the suzuki 4wd club, they are getting rarer and rarer and more desirable than any shorty sierra. They have a heap more room and are heaps more stable offroad than a shorty and a 4k seems to work better than most people expect, especially as they are cheap as chips.(bought my new 4kc for my zook off ebay for 80 bucks.)

don't worry it has crossed my mind :) Yes I could proably get away with it if the car was not used on the road as well Problem that i have is that the sierra is already engineered and road legal with the 4k motor, plus all the 4wd cars in comps need to be road registered. Anyways I am just after info/details/work involved in changing my manual box to an auto at this stage.

Well i asked the organisers of the comp (nissan patrol club) about my 4k being non standard and they said because it has similar power outputs on paper and same capacity as a 1.3 sierra (so in their eyes I have no extra advantage) they would make an exception and consider mine in standard class. What they did not reaise is that mine being an 82 model was before the 1.3 sierra came out (it was originally a 1 litre) and having a 1.6 vitara carby on it and no anti pollution gear on it it will hopefully be pretty grunty indeed when I put it in to replace my worn out 4k in there at the moment. I am just hoping an auto box that bolts to the motor will fitt in easily, also wondering does a kick down cable need to be fitted up as well or is there a way i can have an auto configured that I gotta shift it manually? So would any of the corolla autos fitt where a manual 5 speed goes?? I would preferr a 3 speed I think only cause of the extra gear for some on road driving ability.

many thanks mate I know gearing reductions will happen (in a little while I hope) but part of the rules for the class I am gonna compete in (standard class) only allows original factory gearing. So I am trying to work the rule book a little by fitting an auto cause an auto has the torque converter slippage which enables a slower crawl speed to try to compensate for my standard gearing and much bigger offroad tires.