corollaart

If the engine is going to be a angry sob ,40 s will be at there limit. 34 chokes are getting towards the end of useable limit on 40 s. Rob, got a headache springie ha ha

Better off spending a little more and going gas trust me you,ll be thankfull in the long run. Gas less mig is barely a step up from a stick welder. Theres a lot of cheap sh#t out there,beware! Lincoln 180 don't look back.

Goodness me :2thumbs: :2thumbs:

:poke:

Just read all this ,nice work mate :thumbsup: for a young bloke youve done an excellent job . Keep it up !! rob

I havent got one here to take a picture of,but I'm sure some one will. The first thing i would do is check you have a oil pressure light with ignition on. The second thing is make a small bridging wire and hook two of the wires in that plug together with ignition on check for reverse lights. If you havent check for power at the reverse lights,with a test light.

Yellow blue ,oil pressure sensor.

Yes it is one of those,that you have circled .It should be red ,blue in colour. So red with blue chaser ,blue with red chaser. This is if your wiring harness hasnt been srcewed over,with bits added hacked etc. rob

If your going 4a engine i would go with a ae71 box (the later type). The problem with bolting a ta22 box to a 4a bellhousing is that it will piss oil every where,you need to have a spacer turned up.(Norbie i think is your man) The advantage of using a ta 22 box is the shifter is perfect for early ke,s and will use the original drive shaft. Although the sh#t diff will explode behind a 4a. If you use the the later box the shifter is about 17 -20mm further back than factory and the rear output shaft is different As all ready said the input shaft is not the problem because you will be changing the clutch any way. food for thought.

Ballast resistor.

Nice!! How come you got two terratrips?

The sway bar is ke55 . The diff mounts sit level, the nose of the diff sits slightly upward. I used a dummy ke55 diff to get all spacing right as well as the angle of the pinion (very important bit). You will also need to get your drive shaft redone with the t series flange. don't even bother trying this,its a job for the pros.(cost 300) rob rob

Thanks Keith but no thanks ,if i finished all the things i want to do i would have to live to 300 +. I'm thinking that the diff shops add a solid tube thru the middle of diff . To stop warping of the housing.But I'm only a mug punter. The tube is so p#ss weak i can't see how they don't bend on our wonderful aussie roads. rob rms :lovin:

The inner perches are for sway bar mounts. The most important bit is the front piece (silver bit)you must get it at the right angle. You can see it slides in and out as the nose of the t series diff is longer than the original BW diff. Its not that hard to make ,best result is to weld it to the bench while you put it together so nothing moves!! I would get it all cleaned up ,make a jig then get a welder to weld them on ,if your not confident in doing it your self. You,ll be surprised how thin the tube is. rob rob

Its rural but works fine.

don't stick weld it .You will blow holes in it .Use a grinder with cutting wheel to remove the bulk,then grinding wheel then flapper disc. Even better plasma,or oxy to remove the bulk of the mounts. Remember not to much heat ,slowly slowly.

They certaintly do,I rest my case. .I guess one or both will be at the wrc Justin? rob

Nice work so far :2thumbs: . yeah wifeys seems to be a world wide problem ,with projects. go for it ha ha :yes:

Also makes a difference when you can drive and fabricate to the level of these two. Aw i hate that!!!

I would just like to congratulate TRD (tony)and supra(criag) for there out standing results at bago rally last weekend. I no these blokes don't blow there own trumpet,but credit where credit is due. In a sea of 4wd poping banging things.Tony managed 2nd out right and Craig 3rd out right.(from results i have) Great effort guys :thumbsup:

Good save Richard ,will we see it at a motor khana any time soon? rob

Dam lot of work to do before friday !!!good luck. Um the steel post is a gee up right? rob

Bonds sydney

Good score good price! Ive seen them a lot worse than that rust wise. Just check the front cross member before you go to far.The one under the radiator as i ve yet to see one that isnt rusted out. Also a tip don't use wet n dry on bog ,bog is porous a couple of months down the track the paint will crack and the bog falls out. Beer also helps ,carry on. rob

I just no this is going to be good!!! Subscribed.