RainWarriorDregs

oh alright, cool so the two weird ones are exhaust gaskets, i don't thnk the rubber one is anything to do with the timing cover. i hope not haha cheers for the help guys ps oh Toymotar, is that one of the things that slips over the threded rod that goes through the top of the tappet cover (or engine hat) and then the nut tightens over it to keep it down?

yeah that could make sense dave, its strange tho that the outer diameter of both the weird "gasket" things is the same, but the inside diameter is different. i tried taking that second pic up close but my camera is shit. yeah, its like a ceramic sort of material inbetween the layers of metal strip, its quite odd.

Hey guys, Alec here again. Sorry bout making so many thread, i'll get around to making a rides thread soon and put all my queries in there :happy: Anyways, i've just rebuilt my first 4k for my 1983 Flat front KE70. However i've got three pieces left i have NO idea about. I'm only new to this so be gentle. Pretty much i have a rubber O-ring that looks like a possible dissy seal or somthing, and two strange round rings. I have absolutely no idea what they are for. Can someone please help? Cheers Alec

I'm not overly familiar with the SR5. Is your car originally steering box'ed? if so, would you then need a ae71 steering column?

K series are pushrod engines. No overhead cam here at all. hehe :blush: just taking the piss mate.

how much lower is your car? like what height reduction are these suitable for, cos i badly need new back shocks aswell.

oh ok philbey, i guess i'll see how it goes. Damn, didn't put new bolts in either.

yeah i was thinking about the welding up, but i'm going to save up and get another head reconditioned with new valve springs and valves and stuff because i'm currently running a camshaft with more than 400" lift, so i'm pretty sure the heads gunna cark it in a while. So while i'm getting the rest of the stuff done i'll get that hole welded up.. oh yeah, i put a new gasket behind that plate and sealed it with the Ultra Black sealant, or whatever it is, i was told this will handle the temp and the coolant runnig past the back of it.

Thanks for the advice guys. I got it out, tried an easy out but the bolt snapped when i was undoing it so it was pretty well seized in there and the easy out didn't work :( So i got a 3 mm, 4 mm and 5 mm drill bit and a 6 mm tap. I center punched the shaft of the broken bolt a few times then slowly worked it with the drill bits and then it pretty much collapsed on itself. After that i ran the tap into it a few times back and forth and cleaned the thread and she was good to go. first time i've ever done anything like this :dance: yay for learning! Cheers again guys

not having a dig but why don't you like the gap. I dunno if its just me but i love winding 3rd hear out, haha, but i guess i'm trying to relive my childish days haha. pretty much an irrelevant post. :)

haha, that sucks evan, i can't believe how many people have problems with that plate, what exactly is it for? observation hole? looks like heater lines could come off it or something cos its runs out of a water gallery (i think :blush:) I haven't tried anything on it yet because of exams, but i'm guna try to source some easy outs from somewhere (or just bite the bullet and buy some) and give it a shot. The nut welding trick will come second i think rollabus. Also whats everyones thoughts on getting someone to weld a plate over it, possibility of getting it done for a pittance but should i bother?

fair crack of the whip mate, no need to come onto it like a bull at a red rag. i think its great what he's done, and he did kinda prove that the wind direction was effecting the leanness/richness of the running of the carbies by using two oxygen sensors and an o2 meter. good work altezza

yeah we're going to try to easy out it. failing that, my mates dad is an aluminium welder so i might get a plate welded over that hole so i never have to worry again. i'll let you guys know :)

ah shit man, don't tell me that :o and i just secured the head on and stuff. i knew it went together all to easy. *EDIT: how much was it to fix yours KENut? I'm assuming you had to take the head to the fella.

Hey guys, Alec here again with my 4k rebuild that's taking a million years. I'm getting closer and closer. But i've run into a problem. Here's the low down. Basically i had the head "rebuilt" by a mate. He just cleaned it up, new valve stem seals, levelled the attaching surface. But when i got it back, he hadn't taken that plate off the back. So i have no idea what he actually did to it, but it cost me a carton of piss so i'm not complaining (god how bad does that hole look :( ) Now i went to take this backplate off the head to change the gasket and clean it up cos it looked manky. And as i was undoing the bottom left bolt it just snapped. Clean in half, like a kit kat out of the freezer. Here's the damage: Now how the hell do i fix this? it really sucks, the engine is ready to go in, but i don't wanna have to fix this in the bay cos its freshly painted. I've looked into some of the reverse thread extracting thingies and they seem the go, but its not going to be very easy cos its snapped about 2 mm into the hole (i actually don't know this ahah, jsut making an assumption). Please don't tell me i'm gunna have to drill it out and heli coil it cos i have no idea how that works. thanks guys!!! Alec

just wanted to let you know, this doesn't make any sense. LSD stands for limited slip differential. so you mean, that it spun both wheels when you accelerated? no hate, just letting you know 1985 Hilux diff is apparently 20mm longer than the ke70 one, and is easily modified to spring mounts. I'm not too sure what model etc, in fact i think there's one on sale on here. I'l have a gander.

i'm not brilliant with this stuff, but what you describes kinda sounds like a k series master cylinder set up just my 2 cents

got any pics or links or anything? cos this sounds a little crazy to me

i find this interesting. very interesting. good work :y:

yeah don't sell it man. my car's been off the road for 2 years. 1 year to fix rust and body. Then engine ran for 4 days, then grenaded. 1 year later i've almost finished the engine. They're black holes for money. Never ever will you see the money you put into a car back in your pocket, but you do these things for those you love

i'm not very good with ke10s. but i'm assuming it would need a ke10 specific ball tie rod? like you couldn't use one from a 70 or something because of the rack's differences. if not i got a BAZILLION ke70 tie rod ends anyways, i realise this probably doesn't help, haha. good luck mate

i got blue ones, cos my car's blue :laff:

oh man.... seriously.... :bash: cos then, oh i dunno, it might stop it from crunching a little going into reverse, you know, remember the question you asked for advice on?? This is what i have had to do in all 3 of my ke70s (1983) AND the two Mitsubishi Colts (1987) i have owned to put it in reverse, don't ask me how it works, it just does. you could just keep being a dick tho, its all sweet, next time i just won't try to help no bark of my knee.

when you take it out of gear from a forwards motion gear do you then release the clutch and depress it again before trying to put it in reverse. because this is what i meant.

I'm pretty sure that crunching reverse is pretty common in older gearboxes as the reverse gear is straight cut. Have you tried double clutching to get into reverse? (correct me if i'm wrong someone)