RainWarriorDregs

depends what they are made out of, and quality of build and whether they are painted or not and whether they are homemade. but saying that anywhere from 100 to 400 bucks, i got mine for 100 bucks delivered, but they were made out of an old hotdog muffler and some steam pipe haha.

Way back in the day (i just remembered this) my car would sometimes not start. So i opened up the fuse box to look at the relay for the starter and there wasnt one. Just a piece of wire going from one terminal to the other. So i investigated as to what type of relay i needed, bought one put it in and never had a trouble. Now i realise that this may not help much, but if someone could shed like on why this is? or what relay is needed? maybe it could help. goodluck

I was just about to say something about your tacho facing to the passenger, and then i realised its LHD haha

hey man, good to see you stayed with the rollas. Maybe instead of blocking the radiator up you could try a differently rated thermostat. Maybe a higher temp?

FNQ member Dregs clocking in

seconded. i like this.

Cool plan Jordain. Keep us updated As for the 3sge ke70 i'd like to see some pics of the engine bay. I dunno about immaculate mitch, sure it all works perfectly fine, but i think these boys are going for a different look. Yours is still rugged looking inside and out, but works aha, not really my thing, but if it does the job.

I got a rear window seal off philsrotary (is this Joel?) for my ke70 and he was easy to deal with, cheap and they arrived quite quickly. However the mould itself needed some loving (diamond blade to cut off some of the stickingout bits) but overall i fit it myself and it works fine and looks sweet.

phils rotary on ebay sell them, i got one off him. just search their ebay store

Details would be good. I mean, if it's a regular points distributor running the stock coil on a stock engine then yes, it is NOT a good idea to remove it or you will burn your points out. However i do not run one, as i have an electronic distributor and a gt40 coil suited to use without a resistor. so yeah... i'd leave it aye.

Funny thing about these is, you can make it quiet to make it street legal, but having the adjustable exhaust itself is illegal. Silly things cars aye.

I had this trouble with my rebuild 4k. Ended up being i had forgotten to put the earth cable back on that goes from gb bellhousing to the firewall.

or an SR20 exhaust manifold with that stupid EGR pipe squeezed between it and the firewall :bash:

this is true.

Alright cool. so the dwell is only relevant if you have a points distributor. I have a KEmotorsports elec one. so i don't need to worry about that. Was gunna have a crack at the timing this arvo, but i gotta work at 6, i hate leaving things half way through. Thanks for the help tho mr altezza, i'll let ya know how it turns out.

Is that the reflection off the yellow gutter making the rims gold? I really like that, i reckon this car could do with those rims but gold, or even some of those 100 spoke rims you see on low riders.

I used XT130 LCAs and tie rod tubes from a ra40. they're adjustable at both end (reverse thread on inside closest to gearbox) so i imagine they'd have enough length to fit with the extra length of a sigma LCA.

Thanks Evan, i'll give it a shot and what mr altezza told me too. cheers guys Yeah, i marked the notch that was on 0 on the cam cover when the dissy was pointing at lead 1 of the cap. I don't think i have the wrong mark, i'm pretty sure. How do i know which way i need to turn it? So its nothing to do with the cam being a tooth out? Also, i have a dwell checking thingy, but i have NO idea how to use it, instructions dissapeared long ago and the internet wasn't very helpful :huh:

helpful info here

Hey guys, Alec here. I've just finished my 4k rebuild and got the motor in my car. Had some dramas regarding idle but got that fixed (carby running too lean). Now i've encountered a whole new problem. So basically my timing is screwy and i have an idea what to do, but not sure how. Soooooooo here we gooo... Pretty much, i went to do the timing, got the timing light ready and everything, turned the car on, idles first go, excellent. I painted everything so to get the timing mark on the crank, i wound the motor over by hand with a screwdriver in the No1 sparkplug hole to find TDC. This also coincided with the dissy pointing at the first lead. okie dokie, all good. Then when i shine the light on the crank pulley the white mark i marked is nowhere near where it should be. I was under the impression that 8 BTDC is ideal. Mine would be on like 48 or something, way off the scale. Then i thougt, IDIOT! i had the vac advance on, so i disconected and the car did not want to run, but the mark was closer. I'm stumped :bash: Could the cam be a tooth out? because fuel system is fine, ignition system is fine, i have no idea! If the cam is a tooth out, how do i know which way, i understand how to fix it as i've just built the motor, but i'm still learning. So if because the white mark is to the left of where it should be, do i rotate the cam clockwise one tooth? to get the mark closer to where it should be? Any help would be appreciated, i'm stuck! Alec

yeah i used a few extensions and a 14mm socket. i don't remember any of those bolts being a hassle.

i believe the word troll has lost its meaning and people often get confused between Troll and Trawl.

Man, i just did a ke70 4K replacement, and i cannot even start to fathom the intensities of not only having to deal with a decent size wiring loom but also a turbo and plumbing, and cv joints and the list goes on good work mate

i don't like commodores, but i like this. clean, not overly gawdy. nice, pat the old man on the back for me, ahah

How's it go with -3 camber on the front? have you witnessed much uneven tyre wear? i've got xt130s but i LOVE the look of mass camber, thinking about sigma LCAs.