RainWarriorDregs

Banjo, what ignition control unit are you using? i'd be interested in a set up like that, i'm currently running a stock 4k dissy with a 6al msd module and coil

air con compressor? hell yeah

+1 to finding someone to overhaul your carby. I had one of my old 4k carbies looked at and cleaned up for a measly 90 dollarydoos years back, dealt great improvements but that was due to it being rooted in the first place so don't hold me to this being the solution to all Look how damn shiny it is tho!

My 5k runs alot less oil pressure than my 4k did. this thread makes me want to investigate this fact.

Awesome! Thanks Andrew, i'll throw that in the "of interest" folder on my pc haha. Might come in handy if i want to throw some positive pressure into the motor. Having alot of success with just bolts from boltmasters and the Permaseal headgasket

+1 for grinding inlet manifold, i had to do the same on my single sidedraft redline manifold for my 5k.

Hey guys, got it all sorted, haven't had internet at home as council decided to put a jackhammer throught the NBN fibre line. was fun. Ended up getting a PERMASEAL headgasket that was atleast eleventy time stronger with wider cylinder bore seals and metal between the actual cylinder and the water hole (bad terminology haha). Thanks for having a look for that part number Si, i'll see what Stu comes up with for prices and stuff as i'm pretty poor now haha. I ended up just getting some high tensile bolts from bolt masters that matched the headbolts, they were actualyl really really close, they just didn't get skinnier through the middle which leads me to believe they wouldn't stretch as much, but only time will tell. I'll tell ya what tho, this thing hammers.

Hmmmm... my mate who's helping me runs a workshop so i'll see what he thinks about the fire ring set up, don't want to spend much more on the motor, it owes me about 1200 bucks as it is. Yeah, sucks Cometic don't make a gasket for an old van motor haha, i can get copper ones cut up for about $400 a pop as my engine builder is getting some cut for his 350hp 2h diesel running 60psi of boost. The cam is based on the CT003 608 from camtech. (you can see it here http://www.camtechca..._4cyl_3k4k.html can't figure out how to get a pic on here) however they undercut the cam shaft a little bit to get some extra out of it. I don't have the cam card on me at the moment because i'm at work but i'll take a photo and chuck it up when i get home. I'm running a single 40mm solex which admittedly is a little small for what i'm doing as it came off my worked 4k (which made a whopping 65hp haha). This is the problem we're thinking. It may have had too small of a tune and leaned itself out and just popped the weakest thing, the head gasket. Everything else inside looked amazing still, the piston crowns and block surface, all edges etc. I'm not sure what timing we had it set on actually, i'll have to double check that, but i think we started at about 20 degreees and advanced from there for extra mang mang, basically, it wouldnt start at first haha. And yeah i was just pulling ideas with the overtightening haha, just bummed it failed. Hey peter, its starting to sound like a clean up and a genuine headgasket is the go, a lot of people are saying that they are far superior than the aftermarket ones. Mines my daily, we probably only ran the engine for about 30 mins before it failed but that was 30 mins at 8000rpm, it was fun. But definitely felt like it wasn't getting enough fuel. Called Toyota today and they said it'll be a week for them to get a genuine gasket from down south :( And definitely keep me in mind for a set of ARP studs Stuart, i'd be down like a clown. Thanks for the help guys, i'll go round and see the motor tomorrow, see if my mate has figured anything cluey out and i'll keep you all informed Thanks again!

Between 3&4. It wasn't a major blow out but just enough to cause engine failure. (I'm pretty sure between 3 and 4 haha. It's been a long night shift). It seems to have been a pressure blow out, I'm keen for input tho. In my mind if it was head bolts or warping head related wouldn't it have a wider area of damage? The head was machined flat right before we put it on. Took about 2.5mm off of it if I recall correctly. Then about 2 mm off the Pistons and the block to level with the Pistons. That's interesting altezzaclub, I'll run it past my mate who's helping me with the block Taz I'm thinking that might be the way to go. Genuine Toyota gasket and some arps. Could I just use a genuine gasket and torque the bolts to hell and back? Cheers for the input guys.

Hey guys, long time no post. My high compression (11.5:1) 5k-c deadly race motor blew a headgasket today. Not too keen on putting another factory one in. The one that blew was NOT a genuine Toyota one, that's my next attempt. I wouldn't mind a metal gasket of some sort, i can find one for 3ks and 4ks but not listed for 5k, plus my motor is overbore so 3-4k isn't an option. Probably going to try a genuine one and see how that goes. Not keen on ARP studs as $600 for a set really isn't an option. Any ideas? Or do i need to get one custom made? Cheers for the help guys, keen to get back into it. Alec

Just got my 5k running, my tacho goes to 8 and it goes off the dial.

Yeah i went completely nuts with mine haha. Figured why not. my $800 4k keeps up with 4ages so I went crazy with the 5k in a hope to keep up with traffic :P did alot to it.

Got my 5k for $60. With the 4th piston rusted to the cylinder wall, haha. I can't complain, $1000 later she'll be right ;) Good advice tho, sort your suspension and brakes if youre going to make your car go faster. Don't want to rely on 35 year old components holding up to abuse.

He was a cool guy. Did alot for the forum.

definietely in

I've cleaned up some decent rust on chrome with coke and stainless steel wool. It's a good quick fix

i modded the old brackets stole the design off a mate, i have pics, i'll try find em and throw them up tomorrow.

I am also against wheel spacers. However i have bought some recently to push out my rim to avoid an intereference issue i have with my RACs/shortened steering arms/LCAS/everything in the wheel arch of my car (obviously for use off road NOT ON PUBLIC ROADS). Theres alot of different types of spacers and ways of fitting them. There are bolt ons and slip ons. Bolt ons obviously bolt onto where the existing wheel does then it has its own studs attached to the spacer which you bolt your wheel onto. Slip ons are literally just like big washers that slip over your studs i would NEVER use these, they are just dodgy. Then you have to make sure that the inside diameter of the spacer is the correct size for your hub (hubcentric spacers). I purchased some bolt on 15mm spacers in 4x114.3 with a hub size of 66.1mm (Nissan size). so i also had to purchase some hubcentric rings that space that hub from the 60.1mm (ae86 hub size) to the 66.1mm of the spacer. in hindsight, shouldve bout new rims with correct offset. which is probably the smartest idea out there.

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=25-Temperature-Controller-and-Display&A=112617 i use this works amazingly

I've got lock spacers that i want to chuck in, i'm running ae86 coils, xt130 LCAs and shortened ae86 PS steering arms. i had to source some RA40 tie rod end tubes and tie rod ends to give me enough decent thread to hold onto the tie rods on full lock etc heres some stuff(someone correct me if i'm wrong, i talk this alot but don't often write it haha) xt130 lower control arms = 10mm extra track + (i got, it always seems to be different) -1 camber to use these i needed to obtain two piece ra40 tie rods/tubes (bonus cos it means you can adjust toe without removing the tie rod ball joint from the steering arm as the threads are reversed on one side, instead of the thread being attached to the tie rod end) ke70 steering arms will work with this set up. i am not sure tho how much extra lock you're going to get from only spacers. **EDIT: i'd never seen this SLEEKA SPARES brand before, chucked ra40 tie rod tubes in to find a pic to show you what i mean and BAM, SLEEKA SPARES on ebay haha ** EDIT EDIT: you need pics haha http://compare.ebay.com.au/like/251294943835?ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&cbt=y&_lwgsi=y&item_id=251294943835 TUBES http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Celica-TA22-to-RA40-71-7-81-Corolla-KE35-T18-74-83-Tie-Rod-End-Outer-/140896996817?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20ce1d8dd1 ENDS

Look a little like my AE86 struts in my rolla. but the stub axle looks huuuge i like that gusseting down to the base.

out of interest rian, i bought a ke70 one day with the mythical starter motor relay. as my other 3 just had a loop terminal. I had no idea what was going on. Then one day thought my relay had carked it, tried to get another and apparently they are impossible to find. Turned out to be a dodgy battery earth haha :hammer:

i don't quite understand the gilmer drives. other than a straight cut toothed belt is that the only difference? that it makes that whine?

is that an aftermarket brake bias valve?

That last sentence of Twinkys rings truer than you could ever believe Colton not saying i'm one of those people that knows everything haha, unless it rust removal or how to do a dodgy paint job ;) but there's alot of people on here that know what theyre doing. take their advice, best decision i ever made haha