RainWarriorDregs

hahahah :no2:

i don't know, buuuuuut what did a 2a motor come on? :D

7shades you are by far one of my favourite people, A) for your insight into EVERYTHING and B) for the boot and bonnet :D party on warrior, party on

yeah innox is good

you can also buy this stuff called freeze and release. it freezes the nut and grime around it and loosens up the thread. it helped me get my diff out! good luck

i've also heard that GTI Swift seats bolt straight into a Ke70 and would be interested in confirmation :P

yeah its only the 370z that does this.

swapsies? :yes:

the shifter stick is also bent and angles back so i wonder if it will just be a matter of cutting the hole then it working dammit and i thought i got such a good deal

oh god dammit! i got a KE55 K50 thinking it was a KE70 one, dammit! i'm pretty sure i'm not going to be able to get a tailhousing for a ke70 in townsville. oh thats a burn. so... if i cut the transmission tunnel will the shifter be in a usable position or is it going to be all arse about?

i don't mean to hijack your thread bro, but i was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction for a elec fuel pump. i got no idea where to look or what pressures to look at. does anyone know what pressure fuel pump i need? will this do? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ELECTRIC-FUEL-PUMP-...=item4ced7488c7 thanks guys, now back to the topic

yeah i put the studs back in. bolted her up and the friggin' thing kept leaking! and now my battery is flat!!! ARGH! :) however i had to cut my own gaskets which could be the problem haha. i'll grab some gaskets this week sometime and try her out again hey love ke70 i might take that pump off you, how much you want for it? i'll pm you *edit: someone mentioned to me about an electric fuel pump, i might have a look see into that a bit LOVE KE70 you've got mail ;)

sooo.... i got the studs out, all it took was a heap of freeze and release, some vice grips and my burly friend bob. now just gotta decide whether to wait until monday for bolts or put the studs back in. and hope my fuel pump works THANKS GUYS, I'll let you know how it goes.

nah i didn't have the spaner on both nuts. So i tighten the outside one against the one closest to the block, then i loosen with the one closest to the block? oh yeah, and i think my fuel pump is cactus so if anyone has one that'd be sweet!

So i can't get to the studs on my spare car because of the damn bracket and compressor for the air con! :hmm: i'll remove that then see what happens. i couldn't get the two nut jobbie to work tho, they just spun each other and came off, am i doing something wrong? might have to wait till monday and grab a couple of suitable bolts.

hey guys, thanks for all the replies. Rain yesterday hampered my efforts but i'm back at it today. i'll try out the two nuts idea to get the "new" stud out of my spare engine and i think i'll have to go the vice grips on the snapped stud, i don't think the end is going to allow a nut to slide on. I've got some of that "Freeze and Release" stuff that was a god send when i changed my diff over so i think i'll try that. Not too keen on welding coz there's a lot of petrol around that area haha, could be hazardous. anyway, i'll let you guys know thanks again!

thats right near me. contact details please beers_man @ hotmail . com

Hey guys, Alec again, I went to change my fuel pump, and when i put the new one on i tightened the nut too much (text book error, i've learnt from my mistake) and i snapped the stud. She's my daily and i need her up and running again! There's about half the stud left, i've tried clamping it and wriggling it around but i don't know if these screw out of the block or if they are welded on. PLEASE HELP!!!!

all good, thanks for the advice, i fixed it. stupid me when i changed the fluid resevoir around didn't tighten the nut properly!!! :hmm: whoopsies

sorry mate, got no info on your questions, but 3300RPM at 100 doesn't sound too bad my ke70 runs about 5500 rpm at 100km/h it only has 4 gears :) definitely needs another slotted in there

wow, i want is that sliding throttle thing the way bike carbies work? i remember seeing something like that on a 4k with quad moto carbies.

Hey guys, Alec here, long time lurker, i've got a bit of a brake problem. I have a '83 KE70 with the stockers 4K in it, i've just finished cutting out all the rust and am in the finally stages of priming her (she got stripped back to metal). Now before i go putting on my extractors and new carby and stuff (thanks to the fellas on this wonderful site) i was going over all the safety stuff to make sure she holds up and low and behold i've found myself a brake fluid leak! :) It's leaking from underneath the reservoir where you put the brake fluid in and its draining itself at a pretty constant rate. The way i see it i have 2 options. 1. Rebuild: I'm pretty sure i can take it to the local BrakeMart and they should rebuild it for about $130. This is an alright option but i don't really have $130 at the moment. 2. Upgrade: This might be a good opportunity to upgrade. Now i've searched high and low on Rollaclub.com and ke70.com and even the ever present wisdom of google, but all i'm getting is "put ae86 struts in your rolla" nothing really about the booster. I've talked to my mechanic mate and he's said that most Toyota boosters are fairly similar and interchangeable. He said that it's just a case of finding one with the same stud pattern on the back and with the same sort of set up so the hard connections meet up. Is this correct? Does that mean if i can find one that looks the same its really just plug and play? So if you guys can help me it'd be greatly appreciated! I need to get this fixed so i can get onto the "go-fast" mods haha. Thanks in advance guys! ROLL ON!

i remember someone ages ago with a proper short shifter for a K40 i think it was. They had all the specifications and everything on how to make it, i'm vaguely interested. anyone remember who it was?

sorry mate, know nothing of rotaries, they scare me. BUT you should post some pics up! :jamie: good luck

i'm sorry what?