tim.duncan

Sam it mounts on the exhaust side and normal 16v mounting is only 58mm my question is what Toyota 4A motor this alternator is from so i can get another one

ae86 Motor 4agze computer and accesories are map and cas guys i need help with what alternator this is from i have been to several wreckers and they are unable to id it, unfortanatly the toyota numbers are no longer readable. the main things that are different are it mounts on the exhaust side, and the mounting is 68mm (every other alternator i have measured is 58mm). it also mounts very low right next to the sway bar because i have air con and power steering. I'm 100% it is not a aw11 gze alternator because i have one of them and the plug is different and smaller mounting bracket.

Toyota already did it for you AE86!

Is your pod in its own enclosure? if not this is a must! because if your pod is just dangeling around in you engine bay all your doing is sucking in nasty HOT engine bay air. the myth that the original air filters are the main point of restriction is crap! the reason your pod gives you more power is you have removed the air box which is normally porly built in the eyes of those who want performance. So the next mod i would do is make a box for the pod and also plumb up a ram air intake from the frount of the air so your new box and pod are getting clean, freash, cold air from outside! check out www.autospeed.com as well as they have heaps of great ideas of mods you can do to your car

twincam16 posted this on twincam.org i thought it was worth a read QUOTE I just had to try this air charge cooling add-on recently released by Outlaw Engineering for the SR20VE. I thought it complimentary to my other gizmo's (Neodynium magnets on the fuel line, air charge oscillator on the manifold etc, air ram effect from the front apron). You can see below a photograph of my method and the results on a graph. I took the trouble to measure temperatures both before and after the installation of the thermoblok insulating spacers. The Theory - Cooler air into the engine = more power and better throttle response. A good idea can be had by comparing how your engine responds on a cold day in the warm-up minutes and then think about how it feels on the hottest summer day, heat-soaked in crawling traffic. The Spacers - Outlaw have made an excellent kit, they send you full instructions, precision machined spacers made from laminated thermoset plastic. You get 3 pieces, two for each edge of the inlet manifold and one for the throttle body with paper gaskets. You also get a lot of replacement fasteners, studs and bolts of longer shank for the thickened flanges. The Fitting - This is a pain (reaching and lying over the front of your car), if you've got your engine out of the car it will be twice as easy. It took me a whole day, there's quite a lot of precision work and the danger of fuel lines and petrol. You'll find difficulties with virtually all steel braces/brackets to the inlet manifold becuase it now stands 20mm further away from the block. I managed to re-fit only one bracket by adding steel washer spacers and that fouled the throttle cable! The Test Method - I took my uncalibrated infra-red spot thermometer and photographed readings at 5min intervals from startup. I used the Sony digital camera time stamped photo's and images to ensure correct values against actuals and reduce simple recording errors. Results discussion - It does work, at least under test conditions. These results were not as clear as they might have been because the "after" measurement was taken on a warmer day creating higher start temps. It's interesting to note two clear outcomes; fact the Throttle body runs hotter throughout the test because it's not able to conduct it's heat away as before (your startup tickover should fall faster as a result of this mod). Manifold temperature actually falls in the 20th minute, I can only imagine that this result of cooler charge air dropping the temp through air conduction. When driving I have noticed an improved throttle response although it's still not like when your car is in warm-up mode. When travelling slowly in hot conditions the manifold tends to assume the under-bonnet temperature through general hot air conduction (over-riding the reduced metal to metal conduction). Conclusion - This is modification is worthwhile and much easier to comtemplate if you've got your motor out of the car. Reduced: 92% of original size [ 556 x 542 ] - Click to view full image

Hey guys I was reading this on autospeed (great web site!!!) http://autospeed.com/A_110474/cms/article.html I email the guy and he said that they normally need 20 orders before they go into the making proces. He said that they will do the manifold and throtal bodies for less that $100 if we can get enough together this could be one more little peformance mod we could make to the Mighty 4age!! let me know email me on [email protected] also please post your thought for every one to look at cheers

hey guys just a quick one does anyone know the numbers for a front oil seal? normally these seals will have 3 numbers the outside diam, the inside diam. and how wide they are. All i can find is what looks like a part number but that is no good to me at the moment. cheers guys

Mate of mine has a ke30 that he went to town on with a 9in and all that is left is the floor and the fire wall he welded a roll cage and converted the back wheels to landcruiser wheels and the frount ones are dunnydoor ones its a baddock bassher with the stock 1300 in it and is SICK !!!!! holds 3 gear drift on dirt no worries and sees its far share of really bad driving threw bushes and over jumps best car iv ever driven

Also important to note a supercharger style of compressing the air means it creates alot more heat and we all know that the colder your charge air the more of it you can jam down the neck of your lovely engine while you are giving it 8000 rpm around a corner!!! now if the supercharger is giving us hotter air this is not a good thig. as air heats up it expands and becomes less dens. a turbo will also heat air up as it compressors it (hence all the fmic on turbo cars) but not as much. i knew some one with a sc14 supercharger that ran it on a mini and he was telling me that at 13 psi the teflone coating on the lobes of the sc starts to brake down and they die! a turbo is (on paper) better! rember you will need to have a good supply of oil to keep it alive!! which means running lines and modifing your sump. but then again a 10psi hit of boost as soon as you put your foot down with a super charger is allways fun to! the SC will be easier.

check out www.autospeed.com for cheap performance ideas i love this web site