orangeLJ

Thats oil mate. this one does the same thing. Talked to an engine builder mate today. Supposedly from his experience the 4AGE motors have bee's dick, sized rings and they sludge up very easily. Also they wear valve stem seals relatively quick. So the head will come off, and we can re-ring the thing still in the car.

I don't know much about the engine you are discussing, But i do know my superchargers! SC14s are known to tear the teflon from the rotors when spun at 13000RPM+ this isnt saying they all will do it, but a fair load of them do. Eaton make some fairly well designed twin screw and root style blowers. The M45 would be reasonably easy to adapt to any engine, have a good level of boost for a smaller capacity engine. The centrifugal Superchargers (like the Vortech range) are essentially, running on the same way as a turbo (obviously minus the exhaust proppelled rotors). Alot of guys are seeing very good power gains from these, and they are also ALOT easier to pipe intercoolers for. (EDIT: then a roots or screw type blower) Also to maintain fuel economy when running a supercharger setup, it is possible to run a vacuum operated "bypass" valve. This is fitted to the intake side of the supercharger (between the air filter and the unit) and under low revolutions, bypasses the supercharger. This helps to stop the parisitic characteristics that some blowers can show (also makes them alot nicer on idle +take off) As has already been said, you will have positives and negatives in every setup. Poke around, ask questions and see what is actually readily available for your needs, and also, weigh up how much fab work you could do yourself, and the cost of both setups (SC and Turbo). No use paying an extra couple thousand for something that will only (theoretically) make slightly more horsepower. Also, just a closing point, Horsepower isnt everything. Torque is a major factor in acceleration. To really find the "best" setup, you need to analyse dyno charts and look at the power curve. Something may have a nice peak power, but if it has a shithous curve, its not going to be all that succesful. cheers, Chris

Thatd be great. Thanks mate. Well ive bought another 2 bottles of 40/70 to keep her topped up for now. I'm going to finish off the sprint car, the GTR resto and put the blower on my torana before i go back to her corolla! Although i do have a 2000 model seca in my back yard that needs a new front clip, so it will sneak in there somewhere too. thanks guys.

what have you got! haha. Now that is priceless. I come to a corolla site to find out about her car and end up finding more for mine! I'm chasing some LC parts at the moment, to fix the blue GTR (lower right in those photos) i could do with a whole 4 door or something like that, preferably cheap, can have the ass end stuffed, i need the front! haha.

Using about 1- 1.5 litres every 800-100kms It has a small leak around the distibutor seal, but nothing that would use THAT much oil. It blows a bit of smoke on startup (which points to leaking in the cylinders/ worn rings) But once its running its fine, but if i run it over 6 grand it blows puffs of smoke on changes. I'm gunna chuck it up on the hoist this weekend and have a look for the small leak (10c piece on driveway) but I'm seriously just thinking of cracking the head off and having a look (just need to add it to the list of jobs to do... This keeps me pretty occupied- Three of those need resto jobs, aswell as changing the diff in my daily driver (VT commonwhore) I thought i was done with her SX, and was relieved i could do some other things, but now it seems i was wrong! Thanks for the help guys. I'm still hearing mixed things about the 4AGE 16V motors. (ive had a few people tell me theirs ate oil from new)

naaah not me mate. this is my old girl- I'm from the central coast, NSW, and mines a four door. Missus drove 700 odd kays on the weekend (up the coast and back) to visit some relos, used about the same amount of oil again. I'm looking into rebuilding the bloody thing this week. From what everyone has said, I'm not too sure on spending $1500 on a halfcut from the yellow nations, and having it end up with the same problems.

penrite 40/70 at the moment, but ive run penzoil and valvoline. I run penzoil 40/70 penzoil race blend in my worked 202 (straight 6 holden engine) in my torana for ages without any dramas, used to run 20/50 penzoil without any trouble aswell. I'm just at a bit of a dead end with these things.

Nope, not that one. We were/are running 40/70 weight oil (thickest stuff around) i was running 20/50 but was chewing through that, and in the end, before i decided the other one was stuffed (was more then just the oil burning wrong with it) i went to 40/70, and its what I'm running now this one has had a drama.

Cheers for the replies. The car has just over 201,000kms on the clock. The wear and tear in the car matches that figure (by best judgement) I'm just overly pissed off that BOTH of the SXs weve had (identical down to the colour, one just had more Kms) have had the same drama. I could handle say a litre every 5000kms (general service intervals anyway) but a litre and a half (1.5) every 800-1000kms is a bit ridiculous. So just a few more queries on the 20valve (silver and blacktop) Is a straight swap legal WITHOUT a engineers certificate? I'm assuming aslong as I stick with the pollution gear that came with the 20v, then I shouldn't have too much drama. And ive gone through all of the engine conversion threads, but havent found anything that can decisively tell me how much i need to change (loom and ECU wise) to fit a 20 valve. Does the 20v ecu plug into the old 16v loom? or is it just a matter of swapping over the plug to suit, or do i need to rewire the whole engine loom? Or alternatively has anyone done a write up on a 16v to 20v swap in the AE92 SX? Cheers, Chris

Hi all, I'm from NSW, bout an hour north of sydney, I'm probably a bit out of place on a rolla site (i own toranas and commodores...) But I'm just looking for a few basic answers to a few questions regarding my partners AE92 SX seca (4AGE 100kW motor) Sorry if its all been covered but I'm not too crash hot with the jap stuff, I'm more at home with early girl holdens (toranas etc) and later model aussie cars (commodores, falcons etc) then i am with late model jap stuff. I've sat here for a few hours and flicked through a bunch of topics but I'm still just chasing definitive answers to the following- 1) I'm told the 4AGE 16V motors are notorius for drinking oil. Her first SX was pretty bad on oil, used a couple litres every 500 kms. So i bought an identical smashed rolla, with 40,000kms less on the clock (and picked it up cheap) so ive rebuilt the thing with all new front clip (gaurds, bonnet, radiator support, engine cradle, etc etc) New suspension, fresh paint etc, and now we have got it on the road, its chewing the oil aswell (so I'm reasonably pissed off) So how bad are they on oil? are they all like this? or is it just the ones that have had the ringer revved out of them? (young bloke that smashed it only had it for a month, and was 1 old lady owner before that) 2) would it be worth rebuilding the 16V motor? or finding another one to chuck in? I've rebuilt probably 20 motors over the years, nothing overhead cammed (mostly holden V6s and straight 6s) so i could do most assembly myself. 3) 20V silver top motors... Ive read alot of back and forth on here and other sites about the 20v and debate on if they are decent or not. So is it worth chucking one in? (again, mechanical knowledge isnt a problem, i could do nearly anything in the workshop) If i was to follow this route, I'm under the impression the basic block is the same (in terms of the engine mounts will fit straight in) but the intake (quad throttle bodies) and head are different (aswell as internals i assume) So i would obviously need to change the ECU to suit, and would need all the bolt on auxillary parts (ie, airbox, sensors etc etc) but how in depth and time consuming would it be to drop it in? is there a big difference in wiring (will the ecu plug straight in, sensors etc) EDIT: And is it legal without and engineers cert? and just for fun, a picture-