orangeLJ

jack the bum up, grab the wheel on either side and see if you can move it around, easy way to check for excess thrust in the bearings.

buried cam engine? ima ssuming since you mentioned rocker cover then it is. Ticking can be a bunch of things, usually develops in older engines with a bit of wear and tear, and in most cases is simply the rocker gear clacking away. Could also be a crook lifter or something similar. Have you just finished rebuilding the engine or something (all the gaps, timing, ect was done saturday just gone) or was that a general tune up (plugs etc) Might be worth checking that the rocker gear is all tight, not flapping around like a cock in a shirt sleeve. As for the over-run issue, could be a carby issue too.

Its called a die grinder kiddies! :dance: Would take care of that sort of thing in no time and gives you a bit of control over where/how much to remove. Once you have the "meat" taken out of it, then hit it with a semi-round file, rat tail file for the corners you cannot get to, then some sand paper to knock any sharp points that are left. Same principle that applies to match porting manifolds applies here.

Matchporting heads? its only got one head, and matchporting usually refers to manifold-inlet/exhaust ports. (ie matching the port shape of the inlet manifold to that of the inlet ports of the head) And webers and SUs are brands of carby, two different brands. weber are an italian company (solex, dellorto etc are copies of weber carbs) and come in a large range of configurations (side draught, down draught, twin throat etc etc) SU carbs are/were made by a british company and generally speaking are a single throated, vacuum actuated (rising piston through air pressure) carby. Also, your last post, send your bits off to a machine shop before you start building the engine, They will balance the rotation assembly (pistons, crank, rods etc) out of the engine, and the block needs to be stripped down to be bored aswell. Other then that, gung ho mate! get stuck into it. :P

throw up a picture of the "damaged" paint. Would make it easier to identify or atleast give some ideas on why.

shit does of fuel? Sounds like you have the bases covered for everything else (igntion, timing etc etc) Other then the miss at constant speed, does it drive fine? ie. accelerate fine, or is it sluggish? Bit of shit in the carby? give it a good whack with some carby cleaner and see how it goes. without knowing the exact situation (and being limited with early corolla stuff) its hard to say whats causing it. Dodgy coil?

please don't go for a fart cannon, they are the most overdone, droning bits of shit in existance. to me, nothing says " i couldnt afford a real exhaust, so i copied everyone else" like a cannon hanging out the back. If you must fit a cannon, atleast go spend the money and buy a decent one. It shouldnt cost you $99 from repco or supercheap, decent quality stainless cannons with decent baffles should be around $250-$400 mark. As for surface rust on extractors, thats no big deal, anything that gets very hot and cold alot will have condensation, the cheap brand of headers might explain why the paint hasn't held up. Spend the money on decent brand extractors (if you buy new), cheap ones are just that... cheap! they wont flow as well, the welds wont be as good and they wont last as long as a more expensive branded set (Steer clear of genie, they have been on a downhill slide for a while now) Paceys are about the best off the shelf extractor for most applications these days. And come nice pacemaker blue heat treated, so no surface rust! 2nd hand exhaust systems are shit, ill agree on that, unless its from a mate or very cheap, its not worth it, you are better off to have one made. 2nd hand extractors (especially for older cars) can be fine, I run a 2nd hand set (although HPC coated, and modified :) ) on my LJ torana.

God, donks would have to be the workst kind of rice around nowadays. roll over problems anyone? Pintos are ugly as hell, but they make good drag cars, some of the guys are boosting the hell out of the pinto 4pots and making very good HP.

magnaflow make alot of different sized mufflers, not just the big aero chamber styles. They make smalled "hot dog" style resonators, 12 inch long, about 3-4 inch round they fit in small spaces too.

crocs in the water?? that would make it exciting! Yeah we copped it bad in those june long weekend storms, took me 5 hours to soa 45 minute trip home from work hornsby-central coast on the friday Lots of flooding around our joint, brother apartment complex carpark was under water (we got his car out... just, I was swimming/wading infront of it to make sure it wasnt too deep.... was freeeeeeezing!)

4AGE engines have an idle adjustment screw, if thats what you are reffering to in terms of a "mixture" screw. Leaning out would never cause it to be sluggish at low RPM, that would more likely be running too rich for the amount of revs you are carrying (disconnect the TPS and you will see what I mean) from my experiences most 4pot engines don't pull too hard in the lower rev ranges to start with, they make power from bulk revs, so therefore the cams power band runs from 3000rpm upwards, I'm not sure on what the stated powerband of a 7AFE is though, might be worth looking up to prove it. the missus 4AGE doesnt kick un until around 3500, but will pull through to redline (just has bugger all torque... but it is a 4pot) Feeding the engine more air from a pod filter is going to make the bottom end a bit "doughy" compared to before as you may have reduced the air speed in the intake in the lower rev range.

the tyre size makes up for it, lower profile tyre on the larger diametre rims aims to achieve a similar rolling circumference.

Redback products are very reliable and provide a decent note for a decent price. Family business is exhausts, old boys been at it for 25 years. Lukey IMO are crappy, quality wise, they like to rust prematurely, they may sound ok..... until the baffles fall out. Depends what you are chasing- sound from a std engine and improved flow, or an unrestrictive exhaust for a big power engine etc. The variables generally decide the product. Magnaflow work well and provide a decent note. Also consider price, Stainless mufflers will outlast everything else, stainless mufflers with mild steel pipe is fine for a street car, if the pipes go first, oxy them off and re-use the mufflers. If you wernt in SA Id say pop in for a chat, but NSW is a bit of a hike for an exhaust!

there is a certain restriction to the difference in size in NSW, off the top of my head, have no clue on the figure, but aslong as the circumference is the same size between the wheels, there shouldn't be a drama. I know ALOT of older cars running different sized wheels (larger rear etc) in both diameter and width with no problems for rego or with the police.

It MAY work, but I doubt the head unit alone would have enough output to make any sort of bass really. You would also have the sub acting like a giant speaker, not playing just bass, but everything.

first car was a 1995 diahatsu charade, lowered with 15x7s on it, 205 rubber, stuck to the road like shit to a blanket. Since then- 1973 LJ torana- meant to be daily, decided once we'd finished it to sell it 1988 VK calais, inj202, 4 speed, then 5 speed mags,lowered,exhaust, dark tint (payed $150 for the car in parts) 1988 VK execo, parts car for above, got it for free, donated carpet and stuff. went to VRA who ised it for training. 1994 VR execo, lowered, mags, extractors, metal cat, ported heads, chipped, exhaust, nolathane suspension, oil filled shocks (rode hard as buggery but was a decent cornerer) 1995 VS calais- stat write off, speedway shell for the future. (diff centre went in my VT when the one it is started whining too bad) 1995 VS wagon- smashed car, stole the engine and put it in another VS we had with a gunked up ecotech 1995 VS sedan- needed a buff and a new motor from the above car, (made 2k profit) 1995 VS sedan- fixer upper, bought for $500 with a ding in the nose, fixed it and sold for 4k 1991 VN wagon- donor for the fixer-upper smashed VS (radiator support etc) now used as a rolling shed, engine is still good, so it has its uses 1973 LJ torana sedan- project racecar, ended up finding a flared 2 door shell in VIC, so sold this one off minus all the bits 1972 LJ torana coupe- hot 202 triple webered, konis, nolathane bushed etc etc. painted morpheus purple (well half painted anyway!) hit the track in january 1991 AE92 corolla seca, 4AFE swapped for 4AGE, lowered, 15inch stockies with hubcaps, went like the clappers for a std 4AGE. bought $350- sold for $2400 1998 VT acclaim (current daily) mags, exhaust, lowered 2.5", tinted windows named betty cause of her fat arse. Ebay special for 4k from Vic. And last but not least my 1972 LJ four door that Ive had for 5 years, bright orange, warm 202, custom trim etc etc. this one will die with me.

^ my thoughts exactly I live on the central coast, and I work in hornsby....... Its not much fun when you drive it everyday...

Solex locks are easy to get around, don't waste your time and money. Alarms and immobilisers are good detterants for the run of the mill kids trying to steal cars and go for a joy ride. If someone is experienced and wants your car enough, you wont stop them. A few things to think about- Isolators- fuel and ignition work well, multiple isolators work the best. they may find one, but might not find the others. If you run an electric fuel pump, then you can easily isolate that, aswell as isolating the coil. If you run a mechanical pump, it is easy enough to put a "tap" somewhere in the fuel line to isolate fuel supply. isolating elements of the enigne are a basic principle that work well to deter most theives. Alarms are again, just a detterant most can be disabled very quickly and without too much fuss. How many times have you heard a random car alarm go off and not thought a thing! If you are nearby to your car, then its a different story, but in general they scare the kids off. Immobilisers are also a good idea, but easy to get around in a short period of time. If you do get an alarm system, don't put the supplied stickers on the windows, it just tells the theives which wiring diagram they need before breaking in. Club locks are good ol' fashioned protection and still remain as one of the best methods of keeping your car safe, people just rely on their alrms too much these days!

got a car trailer? even just a snatch strap and a tow car :) Watch it for a few weeks, see what happens, Its not legal as such, but if it stays for a week or two, gets a tow away sticker on it, go grab it, who is going to question you picking up your car because the notice says so?

Longer duration AND more lift. Some say theres was driveable, others say its not, I suppose most of it is personal opinion and how far they have to drive the car/traffic etc. Id like to find someone close to home with some lump in their 4AGE who I can go visit and see how it idles etc for myself, but it seems like thats a bit of hard task.

I suppose people are a bit confused about what you actually want. I "tuned" the engine in my missus SX (4AGE) by feel and experience. If something wasnt right, pull up tinker about, off for another lap of the block. Timed it by ear/feel to get it running after the rebuild, checked the timing a week later with a timing light and was spot on. TPS I just adjusted until it no longer affected the idle (so in co-operation with changing idle setting while the car is warm) I HATE electronic injection with a passion, but the basics can all be adjusted to suit the engine as you go. Pull the plugs out, check the colour of the tip, dark-black colour shows the engine is running rich, a mediocre grey/light brown colour points to the engine running clean, white plugs mean its running lean. Pull the oxygen sensor out and check the colour of it, should be a light-mid tone brown grey colour, black means rich again in this case. Anyone with half a brain and basic mechanical knowledge should be able to adjust a few sensors and an idle screw without people holding their hand. I'm not sure if you are chasing electrical readouts (as in what sort of resistance this sensor should read at what sort of revs etc)

GIO have a vintage and veterans insurance policy that covers vehicles over 30 years of age. My 1973 LJ torana is covered for $16,000 full comprohensive (I'm 20, had my licence suspended, 2 30km/h speeding fines etc etc) and I only pay $340 a year. Registered and insured in my name since I was 17. Insured for $10,000 when I was 17, fresh P plater, modified car and it only used to cost me $289 a year. They are cool with modifications aslong as they are legal and you notify them.

Yeah, ive looked around there before. But everyone seems to have a differing opinion on how it reacts. I know the basic "max" theoretical specs (264 duration no more then 8.5-9mm lift, would only be going 8mm max anyway) But what I'm after is how "angry" (for want of a better term) it will make the car, it is a daily driver for her after all! but a little bit of grumpiness is fine.

Just wondering if anyone is running a slightly larger profile set of cams in their 4AGE on a standard computer and can give me a no-bullshit take on how it drives? With everything there is always a tolerancebuilt into the std computer, but I'm used to GM products, and mostly carbies, not japanese ECUs and Fuel injection. Ive read just about anything and everything I could find on the net, but its hard to make a judgement without driving one yourself and seeing if it "works" with the STD computer. So enough of the dribble. Anyone running a 16v 4AGE with the STD computer and larger profile cams? Is it bearable for my missus to drive (she CAN drive, not like some females, she deals with the lumpy cam in the torana..) how does traffic go etc etc. Cheers, Chris

There is merit in the idea that the hub takes some form of weight in cornering forces. As with all things, the metal on the studs have a certain amount of flex or a tolerance to flex. Overtime (with most guys on here running reasonably old corollas) they will develop stress fractures in the metals, that under most circumstances, do not have any effect of daily driving. But bring in heavy cornering, increased load on the studs etc. Even if they don't break, they are still moving backwards and forwards in small amounts as the give in to the forces being applied. Even if it is infinitely small, the hub fitting tight (via way of a hub spacer like being discussed) it helps to stop any increased movement when the studs are placed under stress. provides peace of mind when cornering hard and asking youself "how fatigued are my wheel studs"