grandma KE30

Can you actually buy whitewall tires from factory at all? (ie from bridgstone or whoever>) I only ask this because my girlfriend has a Datsun 1600 and in the manual it lists 'whitewall tyres' as an optional extra.

My mother has a an 88 corolla with a 4A in it. its done about 440,000k's now and is still going along fine, doesn't use oil or anything, only problem we've ever had with it is that the fuel pump decided that i would be better to pump the fuel around the engine rather than into it, but we fixed that with a new one. That and it doesn't like the bio-fuel that much. but still reliable as, I'm pretty sure that that car will never ever die. :dance:

'Philbey' and 'Hiro Protagonist' are right I'm afraid this is because what you are adding to your car is water, which by the process off electrolisis (with power being used from your car engine/battery) is being converted in hydrogen and oxygen gas. then what happens when you burn the hydrogen it turns back into water water (this is because the hydrogen and oxygen atoms combine with heat, ie burning and produce H2O, ie water) now the amount of energy required to split up the water molecule is exaclty the same as the amount of energy that is put off when the hydrogen oxygen mixture is burnt and the molecule reforms again. so even if we assume that the system will run at 100% efficency (which of course it wont, it will never get anywhere near 100%) then the system will still be not acutally adding any energy to your car. And as its not running at anywhere near 100% efficency then all it will be infact doing is putting unecessary strain on your altanator, battery, while still not increasing fuel economy. note: if you have a tank of hydrogen than this is a different matter, as no energy is required to 'produce' the hydrogen gas. also i have a feeling that a "hydrogen fuel cell" isnt the same as running your engine on hydrogen. Honda have made one, see http://world.honda.com/news/2008/4080616First-FCX-Clarity/ if your really interested, but the idea of a hydrgoen fuel cell, is that its not used in the same way as an internal combustion egnine, but rather to power an electric motor, which will then power the wheels on the car (this 'hydrogen fuel cell car' uses a tank of hydrogen however.) hope that this helps.

my spare corolla baught for $50 little rusty wine barrel bung for oil cap (drove for a full 3months with no oil cap at all though) still goes windows missing (hence blue tarp)

yeah, but to be fair the're not as harsh than say sum of the other states, and also we don't get the 'can't drive a car with more than 3hp on your l's or p's' law. that said if a copper really wants to be a prick u can usally find sumthing wrong on just about any car. best bet is be a good boy/girl and don't do anything too stupid and you should be right

Cheers for that, its sounds like that's what ill have to end up doing if i decide to go ahead with it, although i mite use sumthing a little bit better than a rope to keep the box up, ha ha

My KE30 Pros: Cheap as to run, easy as to fix, is 30 years old but the vinal seats are still good, and the dash is still completly uncracked and doesnt rattle, and the speedo is accurate still accurate (within 2km) at 110. looks great (have wanted one ever since i was six years old just for that reason). was owned by a little old lady before me and so has only done 120 000km, Handles great (handles about 1000times better than a mkII escort that i had before it... stuipid ford) Cons: not the most powerful car in the world(stock 3k-c engine), the lady who owned it before me didnt drive it for 3years before she sold it to me so the engine is a little gungky (mega crank pressure) but its slowly cleaning itself out, new set of rings and she'll be right. I sit with the seat as far back as it will go and only just have enough room, but my knee hits up against the window winder and acutally becomes quite sore if driving for long periods. all in all i love my car, its champion!

so the 2T-G engine still fitted in didnt it? its was just a bastard to change the rear air cleaner, it was'nt hitting against the master cylinder while driving or anything?

Cheers guys for all your help, you've really helped clear a few things up! i thought that it would be a bit strange if it would just bolt straight in without mods but thats why you ask these questions. So from what I'm hearing i can use ta22 engine mounts but i would be better of using custom jobs coz otherwise i mite end up hitting the master cylinder? also i'll need a T50gearbox if i don't want to make another hole for the shifter, and the stock tailshaft will fit in fine? and at 2T-G engine will be hard to come by unless i was prepared to do a rebuild on one? My radiator at the moment is looking pretty shagged so i'll probably invest in a nother one of them, and the suspension (pertiularly in the rear) is pretty dead i was just gunna retention the the back leafs (as the're currently flat) but i mite look at somthing else. cheers again for your help guys, if you have any other comments or tips let me know.

I have a '78 KE30 with a 3K-C engine, 4Spd Manual and am looking for a bit of an power upgrade i thought about a 2T-G beacase i heard that they will bolt straight into the KE30 engine bay without modifications, what is the truth behind this? Also from what i've heard the 2T-G engine never came out in Australia (I'm from SA btw) if this is so how hard is it to find one, and what price range will i be in? if anyone could with these questions, or warn me about any other major problems i mite find. it would be very much appreciated! cheers