TE278U

keep us posted on this one please, very keen.

i thought finding TDC was like finding the clit... guess some people don't know... :) thanks for the additional info... btw... with screwdriver on top of piston method, would it be correct to say that rotor button would be pointing at the position where number one spark plug lead would normally go... (eliminates removing rocker cover.) only true if piston is at top of stroke with points opening...

where in melb are you chika?

looks bout right, they're not off a ke16.

and when checking timing, make sure your vaccuum advance hose is disconnected from the vacuum can on the side of your dissy. :hmm:

try putting the pulley on backwards so the notches are toward the timing cover. put the engine at tdc on number one cyl firing stroke or as close to it as you can without a timing degree wheel. mark a spot on your crank pulley as small as you can with liquid paper or chalk. loosen your dizzy so you can turn the body of it as if you were adjusting it. take the cap off it, and take out the rotor button and the cover plate to the points if it has one. (you need to be able to see the points open. turn the ignition on so you get lights on the dash, but don't crank. turn the body of the dizzy backward or forward the smallest amount until the points open and close again. the points should spark. if you don't have spark, check that the ignition is on. slowly start to turn the distributor body back to where it was originally. as soon as the points spark, stop turning the dizzy, and tighten it up. your timing should now be set as close as possible to o degrees advance based on how close you got to tdc on number 1. put the dizzy cap and rotor button back together, start it up, then use the white dot as your reference mark. good luck :hmm: -dave

this will confuse people... will sound supercharged, then hear the screamer pipe. awesome :y::D:D

if you go on the vicroads website, you can find a list of all the car clubs that can supply you with a club permit. you don't necessarily need a maserati to join the maserati car club. go figure... find a club, research with the interweb, and you should be able to find a club that suits you to a tee. -dave

C'MON, who's gonna be first with pics???? .

in some earlier rollas wiring, there was no relay to the starter motor. chuck one in and this could help get all the amps from the battery to the starter motor. otherwise consult an auto elec, they'll probably give you the answer accidentally before they charge you for any work actually done. g/luck

location?

anyone from out east that's got a spare seat on the way there, i'd appreciate a lift. i'll put in for petrol... croydon to be precise, but can make my way south or west to make it more convenient for anyone. thanks in advance, -dave

ring dick at performance ignition systems in nunawading in melbourne. he'll give you tips and be able to supply all bits. -dave

upgrade swaybars, then worry about tyres.

hell yeah you're doin wicked. you don't see me with a myrides page cos i've got too many to be doing good work to them, and some lack of skills also. without being sexist, i think that what you've done with that car and being a chick is awesome, and there are heaps of guys on this forum who could learn a thing or to from you. i see regular work happening to your car that is unique, and in line with a theme. it's not just copying everyone else, it's cos you like it and it's your car. good stuff murd, dave

i'll revise what i said after finding this pic. zooming in i found blue under the tacho, and red under the speedo. hope this helps. -dave

Typo now fixed... :y: my apologies, i really don't know you well enough to be making uncouth, obnoxious, sexist comments like that. all the best with the car, i really admire your work so far. keep up the good work :) -dave

maybe the other side is red warning light for the handbrake. i would think high beam on speedo handbrake on tacho. oil and charge above and below temp/fuel gauge

hey there soyboy, you're first one looks awesome, i really like it and i would vote for it. comment on the fourth and fifth, they look a little 'anti rolla' with the line through it. i still like them though.

man, that is looking fantastic! i' m lovin your work so far, and at only 16, you should be pumping out some awesome work in a few years time... keep up the attention to detail. can't wait to see this completed :y: -dave

another way of tightening allen key bolts is to cut about 16mm off the right size allen key, then put it in the corresponding ratchet spanner, that would be only a spanner height taller than the bolt. a picture of the manifold setup would help if you want the most accurate help. i deal with bolt problems all day every day, so i've got a million ideas to solve fastening related problems. -dave

hiya, i work in a nut and bolt shop, we also sell industrial supplies. bolts would cost about 8 bucks at the most, and adapter would be 6 bucks ish in a 3/8 square drive. these are best for low clearance applications. and they're f'n strong. we've probably got them in stock, and could airbag it all to you for another 10 bucks. you'd see it the next day. what is the current head size of the bolt you're using? -dave

for my two cents worth, i'd replace all bolts with allen key drive bolts. then get an adaptor to go from square drive to allen key. i can supply all of the bits needed. all images are not to scale. :dance:

SHIT. i needed a drivers side guard in brown.

is this a secret poll??^^:y: anyhow, i say bring on the carnage of a f1 style grid start. apparently it's not bad on the front row :dance: i'll let you know :hmm: let the trash talking resume.... .edit: deposit now deposited... 11.58pm