TE278U

i counted one. false advertising...

who's going to play tonight?

damn, i missed all the scoring. :P save some for me next week... :jamie: -dave

how about any other illegal mods, such as unengineered engine swaps, turbo kits, wide wheels etc etc? how far do you have to go to protect people on a public forum? you could put a disclaimer on the title page suggesting all modifications are reccomended for off road vehicles only. a lot of the illegal mods suggested are probably safe, but you shouldn't be condoning any of them, let alone cut springs. -dave

i want to hear results from 19-11 game. anybody???

no probs, Brock. for less body roll, you really want sway bars. (should be called anti sway bars :hmmm: ) they will stop a shitload of body roll, and nolathane bushings all round your car will make handling seem more responsive (and a little harsher and noisier not by much tho). work on the springs later. highly recommend Whiteline swaybars. :jamie: -Dave

might surprise you earlier than this cruise, stu :P however... awesomest ke70 will not be in attendance. :jamie: rust in peace

philbey, you raise some valid points, however, use genuine parts!!! just any high tensile bolts aren't necessarily going to cut it. (some aftermarket ones will suffice, but check all specs carefully) you need to know the tension/torque that is to be applied to them as per the factory settings, and many 8.8 high tensile bolts are not up to the task. i agree with the idea of replacing them if they are in the state shown, but be very careful when giving advice out on a forum where it could be misinterpreted. as far as flex plate bolts being under more or less strain??? what is your evidence to support this? i can appreciate you trying to make people's car's safer, but please be careful when you give advice that is unfounded. the bolts that you have shown are highly fatigued and should be replaced, but i don't necessarily agree with just going down to Coventry's and buying high tensile bolts. I sell the same bolts at my work that they do, and we refuse to sell any bolts for flywheel applications, as the manufactureres specs are very specific, and we won't risk people's safety or a lawsuit for the sake of a few bucks. and Trev, i agree with the use of plain shanked bolts. they are stronger through the plain shank area as there is no reduction in diameter for the thread. in all modifications please take care. sorry to rant on, but this is very important, and anybody is free to give an opinion or tell me i'm wrong, but i want to see evidence. that's my 2c. -dave

current: ke10 ke11 x2 ke16 ke20 convertible ke25 x2 (one reg) ke30 2dr ke35 ke38 (reg) ke70 (wrecking) ae71 wagon x2 ae71 sedan x2 ae82 twinky vl commodore (wrecking) 1967 Chevrolet Impala (reg) previous: in addition ke20 ke25 factory 5k and 3spd auto (f@$ked and crushed) ke26 x2 ke30 2dr ke30 4dr x 2 ke35 x2 ke38 ke55 ke70 sed ke70 wag ae71 wag te72 x3 1968 hk brougham (sold) hmmm, if i think of more, i'll add them.

sorry Team, i am unable to play this week. conflicting appointment sorry. i'm shattered because i wanted to have a crack at our own level and really really wanted to have a good crack at goal. good news for someone looking to have a go this week tho. -Sonya, i will be wanting to play regularly, so i can pay the 15 rego fee if needed. i can do a bank deposit or something if you need. Good luck, and have fun tomorrow :) -dave

holding deposit paid. can't wait. :)

in all cases such as this... IF IT AIN'T BROKE... DON'T FIX IT!!! ie: should have left it 3k :) -dave

Hmmm, i just did a quick google, i don't think that a bbq shop would be able to help. sorry mate.

I think so, bbq's already run on gas, and my boss just bought injectors to convert his to natural gas, so he can run it off his mains gas supply, no bottles. if i'm way off, i apologise, but i'd try a specialist bbq shop, not just a retailer. -dave

you may be able to try a BBQ shop, as they will have conversion kits most likely.

^^ shouldn't matter what brand, tridon make a set, kincrome probably do similiar, they're a cam style stud extractor. a good tool shop should know what you're talking about. -dave

ask your local specialist tool shop to order you in a set of cam style stud extractors as pictured. just slide it over the stud, and it will unwind piece of cake. it will also reinstall them when you're ready to put new ones in.

YEP! so sore and tired. my hand came up nice and purple and swollen after blocking a goal, and both feet were raw. i could barely walk all tuesday, but by the end of today, i was back to normal. i'll be back next round with a vengeance. :jamie: roll on high-rolla's :yes: any luck with "uniforms" as yet :bash:

also, if you find a reputable tool shop, try these... they're like an external easy out.

weld a nut to the head of the bolt, filling the inside of the nut with weld. then use socket to undo nut. also tighten the surrounding bolts of the f@$ked one to relieve pressure on it. always undo head bolts in sequence, and use a six point socket (like an impact socket) where possible. -dave (boltologist)

score: one bruised hand and two massive mofo blisters. two fifty cent bits, one on each foot. i'll be right for next game :y: heaps of fun. i've just been shown how unfit i am. :bash: next week, more passing less running around like a madman for me :( looking for more subs too :y: -dave

my friend had her leg broken last week in a mixed comp game :) ouch.

just read this in the rules... teams need to be paid and ready to play ten minutes before the game starts. we will probably need extra time this week to fill out paperwork, so let;s try to be there real early. yay next week, i'm excited!

lol, all good, ok, when does the season start? and what do we need to wear? are we getting a cool uniform? |blink|

another name idea... SOCCEROLLA'S, btw, i'll be able to make all games after DEC 12, when i get my license back. |blink| up til then, i can go to box hill station if someon wants to meet me there. -dave