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so all and all this is not a verry comon thing to do, that just makes it more fun. iv been reading through some of the old posts about this, none of them as detailed as this, and 1 says it has a power increas of 10-15hp and another says 20-30hp. as if id think 5hp at the most. what do use think about this part of the conversion??? this should be good to see...

id go for a 4k with little things like extractors, exhaust just for the extra flow and a webber if you can find a cheap 1. a 5k can be a little triky to find some parts and a little more expensive too. 4k will last a a lifetime and will run till your old and grey... cheap as shit too even free. just give it an overhoul...

will 5k/7k valve springs fit into a 4k-c and work without having to do anything to the head or valves.

a custome made bell housing for the box is a lot more complex than 2 30 degree wedges weldedon to the x membar or even finding a TRD 1. so have many people done this oh and I'm not doing this for the side draft crap, that shit is a head f@$k, every time you want to tune it you have to pay through the ass to get it done + the cost of the system. i know it increases power and all, no shit, but i just don't think its worth it. i could set up an sc14 for less. not having a go or nothing just clarifying what my intentions are so this dosnt turn in to a post just on twin carbs. as i was saying what kind of numbers of people would have this done, TRD or home made just curious on that?

too easy than I'm going to cut the gear stick at the lowest point soas it won hit the sides of the chassie ans weld a new extension on so i don't have a big lengthy stick like it would be stock and just weld that on at a 25-35 degree angel, depends on the clearance iv got so i don't have the gear knob in my knob lol... what are your thoughts on the oil return feed, i have one of those ones with the 2 pipes on it and i thik i just have to lengthen it to reach the oil in the sump?

thats beautiful that is. its just a flat pice of steel with a little raised bit on the box mount side, must be to help with the clearance. on that matter its thin so if it did have to be broped a little i could just ad cuts of steel with a hole in it to let the box have a little room to twist a little. thats a pice of piss to make thanks... oh but does the engine sit on a 30 degree angel I'm soure it is...

ok i don't really get what you were trying to say there. i came acros an old post that you had with a few pics and it looked good the way you did your x membar, do you have a little more info on how to do the x membar like the clearance things like that. the engine mounts will be simple after the box is set right.

but was i corect in saying there is no nut and bolt on the gear box mount i can't remembar if ther was or if it just sat in a groove?

just 1 other thing. i no that the gearbox dosnt bolt to the x member so iv started to desighn a rubber lined steel band that will clamp the box down the the x member alnag with a wedg that will be welded to the x member, a pice of another x member so as the stock bump on the botom of the gear box will fall in to it like it normaly would and my clamp that i have only drawn out will act like an exhuast clamp and will hold the box in place on its new 30 degree angel with a 1/2" rubber in it so as not to crush the casing...

the pistons are pushed in to the bolck on there way up on the stroke, this wears down the rings. also when say doing a burnout 360's all the oil gets pushed to 1 side or the sump and oil is forsed up into the head and it pools there and than gets sucked out through the exhaust and you get a smocky engine it nearly hapened to me but my motor was already on its way out.. as for the extra oil returns no I'm soure you wont need it but there is a pice in the head that you chould grind smooth to get a beta oil flow. now i think the only problem with the oil pickup is that when the engine is vertical, the pickup wont get a lot of oil once a lot of it is flowing around the engine already so this has to get lowered, I'm thinking 3" il cut the pickup stem and use a pice of tuff rubber hose and some high quality clamps and sealent for this and wrape wire around the pipe and put another 2 clamps on it to stop it from flexing/fall of lol... iv got it all sused...

well the fact that a slant engine creats wear and i want my corola to be differant. the engine bay looks empty with a slant motor too. ita all pushed to 1 side and I'm easely able to get my hands on as many parts and tools to do this as i pleas so wy not...

now befor all you old people start telling me to read the FAQ, :D shut up cos i carn recite the dam thing. Now as much as i know the K block sits on a 30 degree angel, as for using the stock gearbox it would be possible to just weld up a hollow 30 degree box and run a bolt through that to mount it to the cross member and over fill the gear box oil through the top of the gear stick (take it off and fill with oil than bolt back on). as for the engine mounts, just cut off the short one and use another drivers side mount and add a little extra steel. if the engine sits too high than instead of raising 1 side, drop the other, will have to burn that bridge when i cross it. I'm using extractors so a little bit of an angel wont kill it but for the intake, maybe face the manifold 90 degrees to the carbie so it will sit level. if it hits on the extractors than do the same to it, psoblem gone. as for the gear shifter, find the lowest point on the stick that wont hit the side of the chassie tunel and bend it 30 degrees so you can use the stock interior parts, change the radiator hosing a bit. I'm using a thermo fan so no problems there and the clutch cabel has a bit of slack so tilting will use maybe another 20cm or so, no biggy. :) this is what i plan on doing with my car and if people are interested in it i will keep this updated as i go along. so as i said, has anyone done this just for some tips if iv misst something... :P: the only thing i am stuck on is the oil pick up thingy mugigy, does this have to be bent or something or lengthened if so what will fit it? this is my ony problem and i bet its the worst... :)

reliability problems wouldnt be a problem, nearly all of these cars have had extensive engine and drive train mods to improve on the factory limitations. fuel on the other hand for the ones who might be running a 18det or small block 8 we might have to pull in a few times. what will be the camp sight for the night? 1 of those drivers revive tea spots or something that could work and have a bit of a show off too those who pass through lol. i hope its atleast 800ks return trip, it would do good for my newly finished 55 when its done to work out the bugs and see what dosent runn well. also can you bring a friend? pleas...

when building the unit to keep your carb at the same pressure as the turbo boost do you have to build it to surraund the wholt thing or can it be atatched to just the inlet of the carbiy?

when the first cars were made the styling was square, uggly at that. then they became more rounded heading in to the 30's and 50's than back to step 1 in the late 60's for some makes of cars. back and forth for years and years. my point is no one makes a care like TOYOTA that you can punnish for hours at a time and i don't think that TOYOTA will ever make another COROLLA like it, that will bring the 60's and 70's styling back in to it so thats why i love not like my ke55 4dr Krolla. you will never see them again soon just like a real steel T-ford (1918). there only bad points are, yes the power but still that never stoped me 1 from doing 3rd gear ringers with an old smokey 4k. who was the dip-shit who made a 2speed auto to fit to a little K motor. hill climb in 1st at oh about 4000RPM.. have pitty.. :POSTPICS!: the rust hot spots are the main killers of the Krollers. thank you. :dance:

if the boxes are the same than pleas explane wy i had to cut 3" out of my tunnel to fit the shifter out of the flour????? hmmm.

well i found it and alls i can say was shit! i looked up 3 differant sites and they all said the same 710kg and/or(1,565.3 lb). question answered for you... beta pull him out of weight watches soon ay.

a ke30=870kg and a ke55=875kg. both 4door. 860kg for a ke20 is a little high i would say you would be just under the 800kg point, you might not be able to do it, BUT, if you have to add weight to get it to 801gk to make it legal, get it weighed on a 4wheel weight post after the 12a is fited and all running and ballance the car front to back with a few lead weights positioned in the right spot and it will handel a little beta and might pull up a little betta under hard breaking through a corner. also if you are adding a sound system like i did in me ke55 all my stuff would easly come too an etra 40gk. subs, speakers, head unit, sound matting, twin sub box, CD staker it all ads up. il get back to you on it.

hahahahahaha ke70+ke55=ke125, should look good hahaha, id give it a few more years. hopping for a boy(RWD) or a girl(FWD)? hahahahaha...

ask hear on the wtb section, somone might be able to sell you one. I'm in S.A. and there is adout 40 ke30's and 55's for me to choose from. is there an all jap place in your city, they might have a few cars.

yea good point i was just asuming that you were going to use a ke70 box as they are a few years newer but also if you do go and use a ke70 box your center console will be pushed back with the box, so yea use a ke55 box and this will all slot in like nothing ever happend and you get a 5th gear out of no wear.

my 55 did the same thing ist good to see I'm not going crazzy, the simplest thing to do is change the whole thing out, i got mine for $22 at U-PULL IT and that fixt the problem. but befor i got the new one i pulled the old one apart and found that when the stalk is pulled to high beam there is a little strip of brass that hase to make contact with another pice af steel, the brass was bent away from were it was ment to be. it has to make contact at all times, instead my high beams became a long on/off switch. i fixt it but it only lasted a few days befor it done it again. i would sugest getting 1 off of a ke30, i would think these are made a little stronger as i once had a ke30 that had over 600,000ks on it and was all stock and this didnt happen. see if it would fit first, i would think it is the same. some parts just can't bu re-used like these, hope this helps you out..

the tunnel is easy to do, just cut 4 inches of the tunnel out of the to top towards the hand break and weld/poprivit a new section of tinn over the existing hole, too easy. as for the two types of clutches I'm 99.5% sour you don't have to change the clutch as the 3k is the same as a 4k so that wont be an problem for you as some 4k came with 5speed. no i don't think there is a way around the 5speed problem but its not really a problem like i said and a 5speed would be verry good for fuel at 100ks+ so you don't rev the thing so hard, the drive sharfts should be exactly the same i don't see why it wont all just slot in. its a verry simple thing to do just unclip the clutch cable befor you take it out, my friends got stuck so he gust cut it off and got a brand new 1.

noooo il miss it. make it 4 weeks lol...

:cool: Hahahahahaha you can call it the noob's guide to instaling a 2TG in to a perfictly good AE86...