Gspec

is that rule state specific? 200kw is crazy... my old BA XR6 Turbo had 145kw and that thing could get up and boogie, it also had traction control, airbags all round and a lot of other safety goodies... its also weighs alot more then a little rolla.... 200kw in a little Rolla is crazy stupid!

WHAT GRINDS MY GEARS.... the un-adjusted clutch is my Mitsonata. if the clutch pedal is not pushed through the floor pan when changing gears, they will grind... potentially embarassing.

POR15 is a brand of anti-rust products and unlike most other brands, POR15 actually works. 1) get your panel down to adsolute bare metal. 2) degrease and clean area 3) apply METAL READY as per instructions. wash as per instructions. will leave a slight residue of zinc phosphate and may leave patches of slight rust colour... don't stress about it. 4) apply POR15 (paint) as per instrucions. on final coat ,after 3-5 hours of curing time, dust on some high fill primmer. The dust coat of high fill primer is not absolutley neccesary BUT it makes it easier to apply primer later as when POR15 set, its sets HARD!!!! You'll be there for a long time trying to scotch it. I let it set once then tried to scuff it... NEVER again! Let it cure and its ready for primer/body fill if required The zinc phosphate in METAL READY retards any rust that may accure and the paint seals the metal, keeping moister out. http://www.por15.com/

I hear that, though with me its time not money. IF you can, once the repairs are done, treat the rear section of the car with some POR 15. Once treated right, your rust removal should be final. ;) And next time you buy a car, factor the price of fixing the rust PROPERLY into the deal. :lolcry:

Thats some nasty rust there... its all between the seems :lolcry: was it like that when you bought it?

We install halogen downlights in our cars... no fires. :)

if you're serious about body work and/or spray painting the best book available is called PAINT & BODY HANDBOOK by Don Taylor & Larry Hofer http://www.themotorbookstore.com/paint-body-handbook.html Fibre glass does not truley adhere to steel and any flexing of the steel will break any adhesion between the steel and the glass, water can then get in there and start rusting again. BE MINDFULL: if its a common place of rust, its a common place of water congregation... Basicly if its rusted once chances are its prone to rusting agan. IF you do it right, you'll only need to do it once. Also a bit of logic to anyone that intends to do up cars: Paint is not cheap, so why put paint over a half assed job that will eventually ruin your paint work!

Dust cleans off... if it were rust it would be a serious issue. AMEN to that... Rollas wear beige so well. :dance:

Be well aware that just because a business is put under the label of panel beater, doesn't make them skilled in the art of true panel beating. They are usually crash repairers, that either replace or bog bent panels. Very few of them know how to work metal, and why should they, they are trying to run a business.... Time is money... fixing old shitters with rust takes too much time. Also, from the late 70's onwards, car manufacturers have used high carbon steal. Its lighter and stronger BUT it also has a lower tolerance to heat and cold working, therefore it is harder to use traditional panel beating techniques on. NOTE! bogging a rust hole does not fix it... in fact it only serves to make it worse. Bog hides the rust affected area, but it doesn't stop it from rusting (as bog is porous) so while the area may initially look like its fixed, its actually getting worse BUT you can't see it getting worse... untill its so bad that it displaces the bog that once covered it.. now you have an even bigger problem to fix.

Now there's a tautology... 3 ways even :)

Good to see you're stickin with this project... she's pretty damn hot! :)

My name is Gspec aka tasty and i'm addicted to restoring old jap 4 bangers. mostly Dattos. But i have tasted the joys of the rolla... FELT GREAT just looking to score another fix :) sold most of mt stash but i still have VK sportpack ute (from my MoPar addiction) 200B SSS coupe (I got when the original old lady owner died) 67 1000 wagon AND 1 81 KE70 ... donor car for next hit :dance:

Nice little unit that. The painted bumpers look good too. Go the SR20DE (is gonna be a T too?), hey if you;re gonna jump ship Nissan is the way too go. :)

if a jobs worth doing... :lolcry: ... filling doesn't really repair rust, if anything it just makes it worse.

where did you get that monster of a front spoiler anyways? makes me want to design and build a pattern for one :lolcry:

Here's the before pic of the boot rear rail. The pic doesn't do it justice... theres a lot of rust there. Where you can see bog, is rust. then after the basic cut n shut, its a fair bit tidier. No rust No bog... all it requires is bit a of dolly work and its as good as new :lolcry:

Thats a mad looking body kit. CRAZY :lolcry:

This lookslike a full-on job, can;t wait to see some progress. I agree with Paul, paint your window surrounds to legthen the window line, it will strengthen the horizotal lines and make your car look longer and lower AND it will kepp your car safer ie: keep your blind spot to a minimal. Good luck and keep the pics coming. :lolcry:

Yeah its probably the car you saw on Ebay a while back. I didn't pay what the asking price. Hopefully it wont be too long before she's legal, depends on my time and the weather. The only roady issues are rust, tyres, a lense... maybe brakes.

your wait wont be too much longer man.... and at that price its worth the wait. Yeah still finding more rust. Done a fair amount of cut n shut so far. I'll show you some before and after pics soon... rust repair with out using bog, this will be 1 rare rolla :dance: I've been looking around for cleaner body so i can get something on the road a little sooner (fix this one at my own lessure) but its seems that people want stupid money for rusty dungers that are in similar condition to mine.... either these people are smoking crack cocaine or the peaople that buy these cars have NO idea.... which may be a blessing in disguise.... if they are willing to part with 4 digits for rusty shitters, then once my rolla is returned to a rust free state it will be worth a small fortune :lolcry: The spit is getting closer to cvompletion so once the VB10 is done, i'll get my ksev on it a rust treat it from all angles. If you can get your 38 off the road for a little we'll spit it up as well and get some POR 15 all over its little body :y:

Go the koi trad tat.... full sleave :(

Rahzal = HYPE! sure he's good but there are heaps of unkowns out there that walk all over him. :(

1st go on all my licences. :yes:

Work is finally commencing on this brick... if the weather decides to cooporate. Will get some picks for you RB.... still waiting on your beast to be deliverd to pad.

guitarists.. it figures :S I get what you mean about the changes in prog, though i'm not a huge fan, my mate is and i have to say playing prog with him is quite fun.... especially the dramatic tempo changes. Technicallity sould be no more than 25% of players music. theory, technique, feel/emotion/expression, philosophy and primal enjoyment are all equily as important, if not more so. :)