Gspec

I'm as happy to sell my car at a reasonable price as i am happy to buy a car at a reasonable price... greed doesn't sit well with me. Actually, once i've finished my project, i'll probably still offer my car for less than all the rusty, shit heap, P plater THRASHED, dodgey home modded examples i've seen so far. Its seem that alot of people are willing to take advantage of nieve car buyers for personal gain...I'm not one of those people so i have no incentive to not pulicly state realistic car values. :D

x2

If she's as clean in the flesh as she looks in the pic 1 fat gorilla is a fair price. Good find. :( I wont have any problems with my Rolla: A) its my daily, i will be driving it for a long time B) if i lose money on the resale, i will have saved that and then some on the fuel and maintainance... good ol' 4K C) unlike most other Rollas i've seen for sale, mine will be rust free and repaired by a pro. Cut n shut... NO BOG!!! PLUS given the lack of of proper rust repairs i've seen, my rolla will be only 1 of only a small handfull of rust free KE70's! :jamie:

Who in their right mind "snatches up" a KE70 for that price with "minimal rust"!!!!!!!!!!! For that price you'd want NO RUST, no half assed mods, no half assed repairs, plenty of reg, a roady and a blow job. Be mindfull that both reg and roadies are not transferable interstate. AND That "minimal rust" in Corolla langauge means its FULL of rust. I got my KE70 home for $400 and i know i payed too much... $1700 - $2000 for a rusty rolla... You guys are crazy ;)

Its been quite some time since i was on my P's so i have'nt really given much attention to the law's regarding P's However while getting about today i notice that every P plater i saw was displaying green on white P's Whats the deal?

... or you could try some WARMDUSCHER.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZ_bzYSeDgQ

For sure: Infected Mushroom Logic Bomb Hux Flux.... though they aren't really bassy, psy is great for setting up a good system... or just plug a Nord straight into your set-up ;)

As much as i agree with you I also try to tell myself .... "OK you beat that f@$ker, but where did it get you?" the answer is simpley "Nowhere" You beat the guy, you feel good for about 2 minutes and thats it... its over. BUT if you f@$k up during that spotainious need for victory, the ramifications will last alot longer. Maybe you get done by the fuzz, maybe you have an accident and have to pay up, maybe you bend your pride and joy around a pole, maybe you hurt yourself or someone else. The odd of a bad outcome are fewer BUT the stakes are far greater. By the way I am also telling myself this as i write it... as I too love to crush the ego of wankers in commonwhores that don't realise they have no idea when it comes to cars. Maybe we get more sensible with age.... :P

I love everything about my Rolla... except for the rust. Its never really free.... you pay one way or the other. :P

Technically when i put the A12 into my Datsun 1000 (A10 OEM) its an increase of 10.8% horse power (Factory spec) i'll need a cert.... even though the A12 i put in is old and probably has less HP than a new A10... the laws are strict. Be mindfull, if you drive a vehicle that is outside the guideline of the law and you injure or kill someone, you're not coverd by TAC insurance.

In Victoria, if the car was not availble in Australia with that engine from the factory you will need to engineer it, regerdless of power, as the car was not designed and tested to that engine. An Nissan SR220DE is the same size as an L20B and will bolt straight into a 200B without mods... needs to be engineered. Also another rule in Victoria: ANY increase of factory spec horse power by 10% or more requires a engineered cert.

Once again, we're not talking about what we would get for our purposes, we're talking about what Mybowlcut requires to fix the rust him self. we're not talking about getting the greatest machine on earth, we're talking about getting a good ENTRY level machine. You don't recomend a Bugatti Veyron for someone that MIGHT want to try some Go-karting. :( HOWEVER, if you want a machine with all the features you just stated, UNIMIG have machines meet those requirements quite easily AND is still way cheaper than the Kemppi. ;)

You might be able to find a straight 2nd hand bonnet cheaper, however, you'd be lucky to find a NEW bonnet for less than the price of fixing your current bonnet. IF you fix it yourself, all you need is some spotters, sandpaper and a pressure pack of high fill primer. Plus you'll have the benifit of EXPERIENCE. :(

why is your shit "stuff" but other peoples stuff is "shit"... "hey move your shit... so i can put my stuff down" :( Rest in piece George.

This has been done before AND it worked. People stopped buying fuel from the bigger campanies, the big campanies dropped there price... woo hoo... ...then, like complete retards, everyone went back to the big campanies and they quickly raises their prices again. boicoting does work. Here's a thought. service stations make an amazing amount of money from products in the store and product placment. All that shit on the counter, those companies pay big to have their crap there. "would you like 2 chocolates for $3 with your fuel?" this is their way of pushing the counter product and therefore, charging more for counter space. OK if you don't go to these places to get fuel, you're not going to impulse buy the products in their store. if you don't buy the products in their store you hurt them. The fuel compainies have a bigger voice than you, BUT you can make them talk for you buy making it worth their while doing so. And really allthis, "it wont work" .. how about actually trying to make a difference, you got nothing to lose and alot to gain. P.S. to those earlier post about "no fuel days don't work".. READ the article... its says do it for the rest of the year.

AMEN TO THAT! half assed gaurd flaring looks gay-cheap-pov!!!

Don't get wrong, the Kemppi looks like a serious machine, but in context, for Mybowlcut who probably wont use it often ( or lug it around much) paying twice as much for easier to use features and crazy light weight isn't really practical. Personally i believe it is better to learn to weld on a universally labelled machine and not on a machine that relabels amps with steal thinkness. Firstly if its a good feature for "dummies" chances are the "dummies" will too "dum" to realise its still just a guide line. Secondly they will not become firmilia with standard labels and therefore will have difficulties using other machines. :(

My insurance company did the same with my Cielo work car... 2 doors... its a sports car. :(

Damn it chops, you got a good head on your sholders there. Learn how to drive first before you learn how to drive fast :(

The UNIMIG 172 is half the price, quite easy to use, 33kgs, 27 to 150 amps, Gas?Gasless and, although its probably not as swanky as the Kemppi, for an odd jobs welder is a better choice. :(

You can pick up a good little mig for around the $700 BRAND NEW, even cheaper if you go second hand, I've seen them as low as $300. If you're working on cars regular, or other crazy shit, you'll always have a use for a mig. And if your mates have rusty bricks too then you'll be very busy :( You can get gasless wire so you don't require a gas bottle. Gasless also produces less heat and is less likely to warp your panel... BUT it slags all over the place, so it requires a little more cleaning up. MIG ampage is adjustable, mine goes from 30 - 250 amps. Not sure about hiring, I imagine of you hired a mig it would not come with gas as they are not aloued to used gas from returned bottles incase someone refills it with flamable gas. Once you've welded it up, you will need to skim a little love on there, some high fill primer, then paint.... all of which you wil l have to pay for regardless of wether you do it or the pane; beater does it. They'll probaly charge you for a full tine of bog and primer and paint PLUS a mark up! If you're worried about mucking it up... EASY... pracice on shit first. The key is to get your tin fitting snug, preping for the weld and setting your machine up right. :) or just pay a panel beater to do it.... just don't bog it!

Everyone prefers straight steal over bog, however, small dents on a bonnet.. go a skim of bog. Using bog is quite exceptable for small dents. DO NOT USE BOG for big dents or to fill rusted areas!!!!! Bonnets are a difficult area to panel work given they are usually very broad and near flat, so any stretching of the steal will show up badly. Also the truss panel can get in the way of hammer work. Seeing as the dents are real small use fine fine insteed of standard body fill. Now to bog it, all you need to do is give a corse scuff to the areas you intend on skimming (nothing adherse to smooth paint to be generus with your scuffing) Smear some love on there, always put on a little too much. once its set, sand it close to level with some 80 grit, if required apply some more love and let set, then work it level with finer paper... say... 180 then 240 (then 400 if you use a pressure pack high fill primer) spray the patches with high fill primer to fill any scratches Also hit any bare steal with the primer. Sand the primer and bonnet and she's ready for paint. :( Be mindfull that if you use pressure pack primer filler, it will continuously suck in so over time scratches may eventually show through and the paint may change colour slightly in those areas. If you use 2 pack high fill, it can be sanded straight away BUT it to also sucks in a little over time, however if you can leave it for a at least a week before sanding and painting it will be good... providing it has been kept under cover.

Insteed of paying someone else to repair it, just put that money towards a mig. here's one i threw together today, just needs a tidy up and she's all rock'n'rol ...rust is GONE. :(

better them being a friend and having a laugh than getting a fine. :(

Yes it definately is your Lower Control Arm :( and if it bent, chances are other shit has too.