furryfrog

getting ready to get the engine out, swap the crossmember and suspension. from to don't have much free time this week but I'm determined to work fast when i can, fingers crossed for the weather.

Good way to revive a thread :blush: Engine bay gives me inspiration to do a better job of my wiring this time around.

The rear quarters are f@$ked on the f@$ked one :S Ive been away for a while, wasnt employed for a few months and just tinkering with motorbikes. Ive got a job again so the 35 is getting some TLC. Still needs a sand, and some more paint, the rest of the car is staying mustard. I'm working at nights, as long as the weather is good i can do the car.

Damn this car is one tough unit, i couldnt believe the attention to detail when i saw it in the flesh. Its great inspiration when doing a car myself, if i do it a 1/3rd as good ill be happy with mine.

swap it for a det motor. The comp is too high and no decent turbo is going to be running in its efficiency at 6psi or 10psi, unless you plan on using a t25

Yeh pretty much, the angle i hit wasnt good enough to bounce off and something had to give. I was praying it was gonna be a control arm or strut but no dice. This shell is much cleaner rust wise, I'm not too fussed as i was planning on reshelling anyway.

A few weeks ago i made a judgement error and put my car into a gutter pushing the crossmember back and bending the chassis rail where it bolts up. So its time to start over. I purchased a rolling shell off Andrew and got it towed home today at lunchtime. The plan is to do a reshell Car: 75 KE35 Deluxe Coupe Motor & Driveline: S14 SR20DE w/ VCT, S14 gearbox, GT28RS .86 rear, Standard det exhaust manifold, custom dump pipe, 3" exhaust, 450x300x76 fmic. Fuel System: 555cc nismo injectors, 100lph lift pump, surge tank, 2xVLTurbo fuel pumps in parallel Cooling System: Standard radiator w/ thermo fan Suspension & Brakes: Front: JDM Sprinter struts, discs, callipers, MR2 short stroke rear shocks, HSD Coilover sleeve kit 5kg, xt130 LCAs, RA40 tie-rods, Rear: reset leafs, Suzuki sierra short strokes Wheels & Tyres: front: 15x7 watannabe's. Rear: 15x7 ssr reverse mesh Interior: few gauges, speco meter tacho modified into cluster Body: few dings here and there Other: haltech E6X, haltech EBC, CIG locker Car needs a good wash so I'm lucky its rainings now makes my job easier. Still need to pickup some guards without rust Few bits n peices up back that need small TLC SR20 will look right at home once the bay has a new coat of paint. Will post up when i get some more work done. - Swapping the pedal boxes to run a hydraulic setup - Brake and clutch master - Brake line for ke55 master - Extra fuel line for the return - Engine, gearbox and crossmember - ae86 jdm struts, callipers and sigma LCAs - Cut the transmission tunnel for the shifter - Swap the jap diff for a BW - Make up a gearbox xmember - rewire the haltech *Remount the FMIC so the grill fits on *Spray the FMIC black *Get some xt130 LCAs *Raise the car by 1-2 inches *Wire up my indicators so i can actually drive around. *Make up a Gearbox tunnel to stop the heat getting in the car. *Gear stick boot. Later down the line *New front rotors, bearings and some .. pads (having a mind blank about the pads i use) *Reco the Radiator and move the inlet and outlet for easier routing, fit Coolant temp sensor and water temp sensor into the top radiator tank. *Install my watertemp, oiltemp and oilpressure gauges properly into the dash. *Fit a diff out of something so i can jump on it and not snap axels -George

enough till the dipstick says so? put 3L in and check, top up if required when its at the full mark start it up for 20 seconds, swtich off let it sit and check again, top up as required.

Lot T196 1976 Toyota Corolla SR5 2-door 1.6L/185 HP, 5-speed Manual yumm

neeed more infooooo

the engine been from the same family as the ca18de i imagine it would be a similar process, but ive gotta ask why? a ca18de would be cheap and i imagine a better motor.

Still a good result, its probably dropped in power cause of the thrashing you have been giving it :lolcry:

i was there two weeks ago and didnt see anything of interest, might be time to hit it up again i just wish everyone wasnt such a butcher there.

Wow that makes me feel so sad when a nice car like that gets taken out. I hope the people involved arent some teens who will get a slap on the wrist, but something tells me the owner will end up getting the raw end here.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=27423

Finally got it on the ground ay :yes: good work, reckon its gonna be ready for the cruise? :locked:

One of the guys from work left so i bought his bottom box off him, was getting really tight on space anyway. Got myself a new soldering iron, the one i took from highschool electronics a few years back has decided to fail so it was time for an upgrade. I'm yet to use it. Also got myself a new toy today, am sick of riding my friends gn250 to and from work so i got a little nc24 vfr400, love the retro 80s look and the thing doesnt go half bad, could really use with having the carbs cleaned and syncd. Should get me by till I'm off my restrictions.

When i sprayed up my bike mirrors i didnt mask anything, just used a new razor blade and the paint comes straight off the glass.

Car looks pretty straight, should be fun to drive with the new engine. Get some more pictures up of the interior and engine bay as it is now.

True that, just be smashing gearboxes lol hope you like the whining noises as they are on the way out if not you will get used to it soon.

far out that diff is such overkill. At least you wont have to swap it for something stronger.

Yeh faster than the old vl, that was a great straight line car and fun to cruise in but with the stock t3 the power dropped off very early, it had nothing on the handling and pickup of the corolla. Yeh its a bit of a handful, going to take a little time getting used to where the power comes on again its a bit touchy and easy to loop. Yeh very safe i think a bit more timing could of been had but I'm not in need of a few more kws for now, once i build a bottom end then i think its time to give it a full out power tune, get some cams etc. The big bonus of the high comp is i can cruise around all day without it feeling like a dog off boost. Iv'e been told they can get closer to the 200 mark but its always a timebomb, the motor is where i want it now its time to sort out a better radiator and get an oil cooler so i don't cook it. If a donor shells pops up in the meantime i think i will snap it up and prep is for a transplant. I'm finally home so i took a pic of the graph, forgot to ask to have rpm not kph down the bottom but oh well And here is a quick video, nothing exciting but i couldnt help myself.

motec>autronic>haltech>microtech Any of them will easily do what you need, so speak to your tuner first and see what he prefers. Although with the minimal mods you are running i wouldnt bother just yet.

Had the car on the dyno saturday morning at Micks Motorsport, what a top guy loves to chat so i knew i was in for a long tune lol. Mick fixed a small problem i had with the tps at 1% throttle that kept making the car jerk as it dumped fuel in thinking it was going from 1% to 0% and vice versa so good now its much easier to drive at speed. After a bit more playing around ended up getting 178rwkw on 15psi, i wanted 170 so I'm happy still have plenty left in the turbo. Only ended up running 5degrees advance because of my 10:1 comp and i want the motor to survive for a while. I will upload a video of a power run when I'm at home. George. edit: my mistake 15psi not 14.

well its lucky i didnt install the 044 i have sitting around instead. I love overkill, like i said they were lying around and i had all the bits from my old car so it didnt cost me much, also it is a good failsafe method. Its a little noisy but once i install a headunit that should be ample enough to drown the noise out.