white_sandshoe

Hi all, I am horribly embarrassed that I've got a new car that has a 3A-U in it... 1.5L non crossflow head, carby lump of poo... It's backed by a K50 with cable clutch, so I guess that may be ok for a KE-AE conversion without going to a T series and hydro clutch? Other than that, is there anything in this engine that's worth more than scrap value? I'll be pulling it to make way for something a bit more respectable, just wanting to know if i should just throw it in a rusty shell and send it to metal recycling...

Guessing you might live near there? lol. I was planning on the Causeway carpark, but I'll check out how busy it gets on the weekends... Either that, or Hamburger Hill... depending on what events Burswood have on at the time... There's going to be at least 3 T18s there, and my new TE70 Liftback. Who's bringing what? would be cool to have representation from each generation. That said, it'd be cool to have a new Perth attendance record. I don't think we've hit double figures for cars yet.lol.

Oh, allow me to retort... You'll find there's a Street Rod, which is any restored car from the prescribed era, generally modded to lightly tuned engine specs and "Rod" modifications, such as removed front panels, big/little tire combination etc, but not always... Many still run full panels and un touched suspension. Then there's Hot Rods, which are quite simply HOTTED up Street Rods. They're the ones with superchargers or stacks, over the top paintwork and stance. that sort of thing. The sort of thing that makes random women flash the driver to show their approval. Then there's Rat Rods... which is a Hot Rod which was built on a low ass budget, in someone's carport. Cheap home modifications, weird parts sourced from unusual places... Basically, a whatever-i-can-get-my-hands-on-to-make-it-go-like-stink approach. A Hot Rod can have some crazy huge dollars spent on it, where as a Rat Rod won't. It's against the nature of what Rat Rodding is. Oh, and Original Car??? What do you mean by that? The ASRF went to great lengths to get approval for special licensing legislation put into place in regards to Rods. Anyone on here got a pre 1949 corolla??? Because that's what the Australian Street Rod Federation agreed was the appropriate era for anything to be classed as a Rod... Street, Hot or Rat. The thing of it is, to me, deliberately rusting out a corolla? what the effin hell is anyone wanting to do that for??? Another classic corolla dying? yeah man, that's real cool... remind me to beat anyone who does that deliberately with a stick... Trust me, corollas don't need your help to rust. They can do it fine themselves... if you want to live the dream, then get one that's already f69ked, don't take to a good shell with a grinder the get the "look"...

I thought of something similar, but doing a LowLux with Audi R8 running gear...

wow... good response. I've got a pretty wide tour of Perth lined up... I'll regularly update the first post with more details.

Hmmm. rat rod and rat look... fail... I have a mate who has a 80s civic sedan on cut springs, spray can black and whitewalls with moony hubcaps... Sure it's rat look. even has custom plates with the word rat in it... but it aint a friggin rat rod. simple as that. A rat rod, by definition is a street rod (in the legal sense of the word, "A Street Rod shall mean a vehicle that has a body and frame that were built before 1949, that has been modified for safe road use, or a replica of a vehicle the body and frame of which were built before 1949." - DPI website.) From a street rod/hot rod, it follows a particular style of build, where function outweighs form. That's why things like fancy paintwork, properly lined up panels, rust repairs etc are left off in favour of engine conversions and modifications and suspension and chassis strengthening... Just because some moron decided to ruin his paint and make his car a rusty bucket doesn't make it a rat rod... it just makes him a tool.

Well, It's been quite a few months since our last cruise, and I figured it's about time for another one... I've got quite a long route planned, so be ready for a full day of fun and frivolity... 4th of JULY at 10:30 Start point is Hamburger Hill Cruise will be making lunch stop at Hillarys before heading south... It's a long one, but we'll have about 5 or 6 stop points on the way. please fuel up before you get there. Cheers, from G-Nut

Bloody key bangers... lol. Ummm, T18 is pre-1984 emissions legislation, so no cat needed! yay! Also applies to 3TGTEs when they go into a T18 ;)

From my collection of T18s and T18 parts, I've found Series 1 didn't come with a passenger side mirror, but may have been an option. (I haven't seen one yet that had that option. I'm aware that the laws didn't require one if it was fitted with an internal rear vision mirror. that's from ADR compliance from like the early 80's) Series 2 appears to have the mirrors built in place of a section of the window in the door (meaning if you fit series 2 glass to a series 1 door, you'll end up with a little triangle of glass missing at the front) If anyone wants i can post pics of both...

yeah, "youuurrrr killlling mmmeeeeee , but I looooooveee iiiiitttt!!!" go the 4K, lumpy bump stick, 32/36 weber, 3KB head and extractors... then rev it to 8000...

If the 7K is available, i'd take that instead of searching for a 5K... Though 4K is likely to be the easiest to find bits for, and can still be made into a fun little engine.

Hear Hear ke70dave. In many instances, people need to crawl before they can walk, before they can cut sick skids in their turbo K powered rollas... Understanding the relationship between fuel pressure and boost pressure, and the necessity of a boost referenced pressure regulator, right through to ignition timing and control, and even re-setting timing curves... Understanding not only how a standard combustion engine works, but the differences between how a carbied, naturally aspirated engine, and an EFI, boosted engine operate... These are things we should all hunt for some understanding of. Not just, what will bolt up and make me go fast. Actually, that's one I only just stumbled across... The difference in ignition timing between N/A and boosted engines. Wow, did it blow my mind. Even now I still don't get all the details to be able to explain it properly, so I'll just suggest people search up on how (and why) to re-curve dizzies... :D While I am included in the list of people that are getting sick of noob questions, I can understand sometimes it's hard to know what to search for. But to me that is just saying, there's more homework to do so you CAN know what to look for. Confucious say; One must know the questions before one can seek the answers...

Check wiring to your temp sensor? If it's not that, either the sensor core might be rusted out (happened to one of mine previously) or the gauge might be stuffed. I'd check Wiring, Sensor then Gauge...

And where do we locate some of this magical William Shatner awesomeness? I guess it's a case of "If you've got it, you've got it..." What a bargain you've scored yourself here.

I'm not sure whether to laugh, cry or join the taliban... Bloody americans. Speaking of which, did anyone watch Good News Week last night? What European city was the first opera house built? A) Italian B) Sydney C) Persia

I put bets on it being a 3K Bigport...

Otomoto do some really great suspension pieces. I've heard rumour of R31 skyline struts fitting into KE20s fairly easily... If anyone knows any more about that, it might open up the options a bit further...

Hear hear... 4AGE = originality fail.

I think the insta-PM from for sale threads is a sterling idea... keep "heated disagreements" over lowball offers out of the public eye. Might even consider an insta-bump function too? That way it's 100% fair for all sellers, having it so posts don't = bump in for sale threads, just have it auto-bump every 72 hours (if i remember the rules correctly?) Then when thread closed on announcement of sold, it locks down. I still do consider it worthwhile to have such discussions open for everyone to see, because there's parts i have put up for sale, which I really don't know a value for... so I often use the for sale threads as a point of reference, though i suppose if people are generous enough to list their final sale price, that'd stop that information being lost.

Ok, enough messing around... Let's do this properways... E49 265 Hemi... There, i said it...

7M would require at least 2 cylinders to be pushed through the firewall... they are a massively long engine, and as previously stated, not worth it for time/effort/expense. I say that as for similar time/effort/expense, a 1GGTE can be done with no firewall mods, bolt up ease (almost... 3T bellhousing will provide for a T50 box to fit for cheaper than chasing down a 1G-W5* setup, and then it's custom mounts...) and 210hp out of a stock 3rd Gen is more than you can expect out of a 7MGE.

Here's a stirling idea... open the hood and have a look... maybe even take the turbo with you to the front of the car, and see where it will fit. Or, take a look at the multitude of threads with the multitudes of pictures taken of turbo K engine bays...

Good luck with 250atw with the stock CT20... but if he says it's possible, and can do it, i'd love to see. We ran my old red T18 down the strip for the first time. Stock aside from 2.5" crush bent exhaust, top mount intercooler with zero airflow and 11psi... Dynoed at 165hp at the wheels, we have a HUGE wheelspin issue with that much. First run (and first ever drag run for the driver) bogged launch, spun the crap out of second, then hooked up and ran a 14.9 first pass. Best of the night was the last run. Best hookup we could hope for, and easy on the shifts netted a 14.5 The bastards kept lining us up against a brand new FPV that was running low 14's/high 13's with big front mount, extra boost and performance chip...

rough calculations for power figures basically involve multiplying your power figure by the amount of boost you plan to run... HP + (HP x BAR) = ? eg; 3K = (60hp - 30 years of wear and tear = 45hp) + (upper limits of boost 0.5Bar (or 7psi)? x 45hp = 22.5hp) = 67.5hp? what ever power figures you start with, is the figures your boost will multiply, in theory... (stupid big cams and crazy porting might give you good numbers, but they won't be any more drivable while adding boost... there's a lot more to turbo theory than that...) Then, once running boost, as with any engine, it's only as strong as the weakest component.

Correct me if i'm wrong, but i sense Mr Redwarf may be getting sick of threads related to blatantly rediculous questions. (and my equally rediculous answers.)