white_sandshoe

Just thought I'd chuck in my 2c as far as this setup is concerned. Toyota Superchargers are positive displacement chargers, meaning that they force more air into the engine, per revolution, than what the engine will hold, hence putting it under a higher pressure. It takes x volume of air... not pressure... it doesn't matter if you're drawing from, for example, atmospheric, or... 14psi out the back of a turbo... Since it works with volume, while the turbo works with heat and pressure, it is more beneficial to mount the turbo first in line. With that in mind, I personally would do as you thought, and intercool the intake charge prior to it hitting the supercharger, so as to take some heat out to prolong the life of the teflon blades of the supercharger. Maybe also a water sprayer if you're running high boost to keep the charger nice and cool? (Just because I like the idea. lol) Also, when setting boost on the turbo, remember to boost reference the waste gate AFTER the supercharger, as the supercharger will be adding a bit of additional pressure also from the difference in volume of air. Every time I hear someone mention twin charging, it makes me want to give it a go. :P

They are a ROH rim. Came in 13x5.5 and 14x6 definitely, since I've owned a full set of each. They are a rip off of one of the old school Datsun mags, but I can't remember which... I don't at present have any though, otherwise I'd let you have them. They look pretty bloody good. I think offset is about +10 from memory?

Subscribing to this thread... I'm also planning a 4 link. Theory is in replacing the whole floor section in the boot and making it semi-spaceframe (triangulating bars upwards into the boot space from the rear bumper) which I can then tie a rollcage into. Part of that space framing will be structural strengthening of the seat area, and putting in mounting and structural supports for the areas that the coilovers and control arms will be pushing against, as well as minitubbing... With the way the chassis is on the KE20, I don't feel comfortable putting pressure on many areas of the chassis as it stands. Only other way I'd consider doing a suspension setup is an interesting concept I saw done once, a long time ago on an old truck. The front spring mounts link to thebottom of the diff, and angle downwards to reach it, and the rear spring mounts have a crossover setup, where the mount from one side of the diff goes to the opposite mount, if that makes sense. They are welded in the middle, to create a solid link, and act as both control arms, and panhard rod, as well as having an antiroll effect too, as it will bind up when it's twisted. To get this to work on a KE20, the rear spring mounts would have to be braced up to take side load, which wouldn't be too hard to do... That, and damper mount strengthened, and converted to coilover. Not sure if that makes much sense...

Bolt a T28 onto the side (make sure it's from a S15... nissan ball bearing power is good for it yo) and then rev to 100rpms... Note, that's Revolutions Per MilliSecond...

Yeah, thanks for everyone confirming my line of thinking... My other thought was, how many guys out here have a K series engine that would absolutely NEED a W series box? I think that's a number that can be reached on one hand... And I want to find one of these E series dual wheel diffs now! Just for shits and giggles

Hi all, I was having a bit of a peruse around my shed the other day, and realised that I have two VERY interesting parts... I found my K engine to W50 bellhousing (Early RA Celica Box) from an early Liteace Van (came off the back of a 5K-C, and runs cable clutch) And a K Engine to W58 bellhousing (yes... W58, for all the supra goodness!) off a 7K, running Hydraulic clutch... I'm wondering if there'd be much interest in these... Call this an expression of interest thread??? I'm personally using both of the bellhousings I have, the K-W50 bellhousing will go behind a Supercharged 5K in my KE15, and the K-W58 will be transmitting power from a Turbo 7K-E in my KE20, but if there is enough people who want them, I'd be keen to produce some. I'm going to be manufacturing a bellhousing for another engine conversion in the next 3-4 months, so it'd be no big deal to turn out a few of these. I'll know a ballpark price in about a month (international postage takes too long... :glare:) when I get my other ones done, so yeah... let me know if you think your K engined car is crazy powerful enough to need a W50 or W58 gearbox, or, if you want something that will never break. lol.

Lots of people will say a lot of things as though they are gospel... Lots of people are just idiots. It fits, here's proof... The person saying it can't be done, is often interrupted by someone doing it. Oh, HERE'S the guy who's done it...

Wow, Zombified it is! Funny though, as I do have some updates in regards to this car, and the planned exhaust/carb work... I have decided to run EFI, and high compression (14:1) with high lift cams, but not much more in duration. Will be tuning for, and running, Ethanol, and running a Plymouth 'Cuda-esque exhaust, which will go down to a muffler, then double back and exit before the rear wheel... The plan is to have the side pipe a two piece arrangement with a two bolt flange on the exhaust tip, and off the muffler... that 90 degree bend will unbolt, and re-attach directly onto the exhaust once the second two bolt flange prior to the exhaust is removed... Not sure if that makes any sense, but when I start actually building the car, all will become clear. (got my 1MZ T18, my 7KZE KE20 and my 7MGTE MX32 projects to finish before this one gets started...) Anyways, all is well in the world...

Pure, Unadulterated Automotive PORN!~

i get mine from auto pro for $99 for VL pumps...

Hmmmm, I was hoping closer to the $300-350 mark... And interesting about the difference between 3TC and 3TGTE flywheels... I'll have to keep that one in mind.

Lol at the re-birthing of well old threadss.That said, I'll be back in town soon, like, a few days! I'll be around town for a while too, doing lots and lots of fun stuff... Will hopefully see some people at the Japanese car day on the 16th...

the key to this question is "behind a 4K" not the torquiest of engines, taller diff ratios will not make happy in the pants for anyone driving, especially when talking about a 4K 4 speed with 3.7 ratios. 3.9 is ok if you like total grandma style driving, but for something fun and usable (and suited to the K engine) 4.11 and 5 speed would be the way to go, or even 4.3-4.4... My T18s come with a 3.9, and even with the torque of a 3T are still a bit yawn... And while talking of the lack of torque, a 5th gear mod like that, again, works great in theory... but I'd doubt the 4K's ability to make good use of a ratio that far away from 5th. Unless you do a lot of country distance driving... A lot of it depends on usage... Yes, it all works in theory, but so does communism.

The steering column mounting through the firewall becomes an issue... Though I've got it under good report that some people have worked that out. The AE71 crossmember is the way to go when doing it, or an AE86 if you can find one. lol. the way the steering column comes through the firewall is completely different... KE and AE racks use a bearing on the lower half of the shaft, where the T18 doesn't as it's fixed solid to the box...

This almost HAD a hole in the bonnet! lol. I wanted to, and heavily recommended it, since the front mount suggestion was turned down. lol. Looking forward to someone building a 3TGTE properly! Loving your work t18drifts.

Someone find me one for my MX32... Ultimate Yakuza Cruiser!

depending on price, may be keen on 3... What sort of weight would you be looking at for finished products?

Hi all, I did search, but i think what i'm looking for is a little more technical than most are familiar with... I'm looking for someone that might have a diff centre out of a KE20-55. I need basically every measurement avaliable... Length, overall diameter, diameter at bolt face of ring gear, inside and out, length to bearing seat (if that's what it's called.) width of the area the ring gear bolts to, as well as spline number and diameter... basically all the necessary measurements to replecate the thing... If anyone could be so good as to run a set of measuring tools over the thing, i'd me most grateful.

hehehe. I was there... :'( The Hachi is now in Darwin, after a VERY interesting drive up. I won't be back in West Oz for at least another 6-8 months, but hope to see a few more people then... Chat you all later from G-Nut

I'll be up at Hillarys Surf Lifesaving at about 1... Will hang out there for about an hour and cruise on after that...

Yeah, Sat 21st it is... I'll be around from Thursday until sometime Sunday afternoon, so anyone wanting to get hold of me, friday evening or Saturday morning are likely to be the best times. I'm thinking about meeting at Hillarys... Carpark on the corner next to the Life Saving Club... if you're coming up from the south, you look straight into it once you pass the service station, so easy to spot us. Then take a drive down the coast and maybe BBQ down at Woodman Point? See ya all soon.

Yeah, it's a catch up, but I don't want to give my neighbours the wrong impression... They're used to seeing some interesting toyotas in the drive ;) unless the weather permits a BBQ at Hillary's foreshore or something? That'd be nice wouldn't it? Just thoughts for now.

I was going to, but the chick i was going to visit down there shifted back to Darwin! haha. (and before any rumours start, she's mates with my wife, so nothing suss) Looks good for something on Saturday 21st... And Ken, no Beemers allowed... haha. Bring your rona!

Sorry, only one ready to bolt up, and it's going into MY car. hahaha. But... I can do you a 3TGTE manifold with a T25 adaptor plate bolted up... nice fat SU would do the job nicely. Actually, there needs to be a list of Carbon Sealed turbochargers available... I've never seen such a list, but that'd make turbo selection for a draw through setup much easier. I'm back in town 19th of May, so might have to drop around and have a tinker if you're free.