white_sandshoe

Does anyone have t18drifts number? I've got cash waiting for him, but he hasn't replied to his PMs. Can someone tell him for me? Cheers

That bellhousing is definitely a K-W50... Technically, it'd be to a W40, or, if it's out of a townace or early liteace, it's a weird abomination of a gearbox that has a 4 bolt pattern, which, as you theorized, lines up with 4 bolts on the W50... They should also be cable clutch too, so a save on effing around with hydraulic. Don't quote me, but I've been told they take a larger flywheel too... Not sure if it's a necessity to have flywheel to suit, or if it's just the friction surface that is larger... I got one laying around the house...

VZ= Cast Iron, MZ= Alloy... Granted, it might be easier, but I want to steer away from boat anchors, particularly ones that don't have the best of reputations. I've heard the 3VZ flywheel will work on the 1MZ, however I'm being unconventional with mounting it all, so that won't even work for me. Instead I'm going to be getting some 3SGTE flywheels made up with the correct PCD drilled to fit the 1MZ. Makes for a decent selection of aftermarket clutches too. The plenum on the 1MZ consists of long twin runners from the throttle body, split plenum with a valve that opens at higher RPM, and the top half of the inlet runners... I've got a few ideas about how to get around this... One is having two half-plenums, and keeping the dividing valve between the two operational, having a single plenum, and twin side facing throttle bodies, or, small plenum (more like a really thick balance tube) and individual throttle bodies on top... It's highly likely that I'll screw around with all of them as I develop the engine, but I am looking at the cheapest options first, so short runners, single inlet plenum on top is the first point of call... I got a plate water cut from alloy, but that cost a small fortune, so now exploring alternatives. Just hard to make progress other than planning while I'm away. Two and a half weeks, and I'll be back in full swing.

I've seen ghosts a few times... Trippiest one was sitting in this guy's room (It was a friend of a friend, who i'd met a few times before) and his mother comes in, and stands at the end of the bed, in front of the mirror. Looking past her, to the reflection, I see the back of a person standing next to her... Mildly tripped out at this point, I kinda steer the discussion towards the supernatural. When asked why I'm asking about that, I tell the three people in the room what I can see in the mirror. At that point, the figure I can see in the mirror turns to face the mirror... I'm looking through where this person should be, to see the reflection of their face. I put my lip reading skills to good use, and tell the mother that she's haunted, and that the ghost is her best friend from high school, who died in an accident she was involved in, when their car lost control and went off a bridge. The guy helped her get free of the car, and drowned after promising her he wouldn't leave her. I describe the guy, as the reflection is clear as though the guy was right in front of me... by this time she's broken down in tears, and goes out of the room, coming back with a photo album, and shows us the pictures of her best friend from highschool... Exactly as I described him. The mother then retells the whole story, including showing us some newspaper clippings to verify the story.

This build has been going over and over in my mind for a very long time. It's not the easiest engine in the world to fit, that's for sure. Inlet manifold is what I'm plugging away at for now. I want to have a single, front entry plenum, but the porting for the lower section of the manifold is set for side entry on one bank, and i'd prefer not to have to do the whole lower section too... Then the water filler is actually on the engine, right where a front facing inlet would preferably run. lol Nothing I can't handle, it's just a pain in the ass. I'm actually getting multiples of each part I make made up, so in the end, i'll have full conversion kits available for bolt in 1MZ goodness. Is it coincidence that the next car on the list of crazy things to build is a KE20? :P I've got a very specific goal in mind with my 20, which will be the title of the build thread when the T18 is finished. I've asked Matt to be my test pilot, along with another guy I've done a bunch of work with before. I'm hoping between the three of us, we can negotiate this into a very well set, and easy to handle car... Plan from there is to see how competitive we can be. Initially aiming to run a season in DriftWA, but I'd also like to have her run in some time attack, hill climb or other time competitive racing. It's early days though, and I've got to build the car before I can do anything with it. lol

Well, this little T18... I bought her from this guy and his daughter who had gotten a bit of a run around from their rebuilder/painter, who did the most orange-peely job I have ever seen... Twice apparently! She was sitting on King Springs and matched short stroke shocks, and running a rebuilt, albiet stock 3T-C. Very tidy car, other than the terrible paint. She became affectionately known as Allie. Used as a daily driver for quite a while, with nothing more than couple of rims changes... Then, things went a little crazy... I sourced a 3TGTE from KYP, backed by a W55, some custom coilovers and RA65 brakes for the front, and lower than low kings for the rear. Bolted it all together, got bored and sold her... With it's new owner, I helped set it up a bit more, and she was taken down the Motorplex in 14.3 with a need for better tires. She got rained out the last day of the season, so the semi slicks we'd sourced never got to put her into the 13's, but with her MPH, we were sure she could have. The new owner decided drift was the way to go, and other commitments broke our contact... I went away for a while, and often wondered what happened to that lovely red T18. A young guy on the forums contacted me, asking what I knew about T18s, having read a few of the earlier posts, and seeing I'd owned a few in my time... Turns out the guy I sold the car to abandoned it in South Perth, and the council decided to send it to Pickles Auctions... Where it was bought by this young guy... A deal was made for my assistance in swapping the running gear into another T18 he had (which, as fate would have it, was another one I owned previously) and in return for my services, Allie would be mine again. Now Allie is sitting back in the shed, engine removed, interior worse for wear, and needing some loving. But... She's not going to get it... Allie is going to be used, abused, butchered and chopped up and then thrown around like a rag doll... And she's going to love every minute of it! the sadistic bitch. Plans... 1MZ-FE RWD Converted, and slotted between the struts. W55 bolted to the back 282mm custom front vented brakes 260mm custom disk brake rear HSD Coilovers Rack and Pinion conversion Working Aircon Custom interior JGTC style Aero 4.3 LSD And all Street legal So far... 1MZ test fitted and engine mounts cut out. Requiring welding. W55 fit using modified 2S bellhousing Front brakes fit using custom adaptors and machined hubs Rear brakes sourced, still need work on adaptors HSD suspension waiting installation Oil pickup relocation kit designed, waiting fabrication Suitable tailshaft sorted, waiting final installation. Soon to come... 1MZ final fitment. Custom intake manifold, and modified exhaust manifolds Manual conversion of engine using custom flywheel and clutch Wiring loom set up to patch into T18 loom Rear brake fitment, ready for testing. Rack and Pinion conversion. Serious hacking of rear body for rear diffuser Sectional under tray designed and cut for semi flat bottom. Interior swapped over from donor car. In the future: The aim is to create a car that is easy to drive, while being powerful, precise and a pleasure to drive, even at speed. I'd like to develop the engine further in the future, and include a couple of turbos hanging off the sides, making for a sub 4:1 weight to power ratio, and move back to a 3.9 diff, giving her a preference for high speeds, and up the ante for the aero to make that work. I'm aiming for the car to feel comfortable on the street, capable on the track and competitive against some of the lower end exotica... Ferrari 456, BMW M3 E46 model, Lamborghini Diablo etc (Until it runs out of aero at high speed of course... It is shaped like a house brick after all.) Aiming for 200rwhp in N/A tune, and 350rwhp in turbo tune Low 12 second standing quarter mile in N/A tune Mid 10 second in turbo tune Sub 1:10 around Barbagallo Raceway in grip setup Damn sexy drift in drift setup. :P Pics will come when I get back home.

Definitely go with rally style suspension... and high sidewall tires too... Low profiles will not be much good to you...

Slight Homer Simpson moment... D'oh! Though, on the up side, Awesome! KP61 FTW!

Matt, i'm G-Nut. My collection of T18s stands at 4, soon to be 5, and I've owned, over the last 3 years, a total of 10 of these lovely things. If you need parts, a helping hand or any ideas on what's possible, let me know... My PB so far is a 14.3 (for something I built, not be driving... ) to see if we could crack 14s for under a grand. Oh, BTW, it's a TE72, badged in Australia as a T18. Common mods, depending on what you're looking for include 3TGTE from TT141 Corona or TA63 GT Celicas which gives 160hp and bolts in, AE86 suspension swaps across, with the exception of the rack, but there are ways to fit that too, and 4AGE isn't very hard to fit either, since it uses a T50 gearbox, and the engine crossmember is the same, except for the lack of rack and pinion. Mostly need the engine with bellhousing to suit. Other one that's pretty easy is either 2TG or 3T/2TG hybrid. There's a guy on here who has done the 1UZ into T18, and says it's excellent, and i completely believe that! hehe All comes down to what you're wanting from it, what you're using it for, and how much money/time/blood sweat and tears you're willing to put into it. PM me, and we can have a chat...

I always thought Nardi stiched their wheels, not that glued together crap... Unless their standards have fallen flat on their face...

its got to be the same type of engine, by the same manifacturer... Meaning, toyota with an inline 4cyl can be powered by another toyota inline 4cyl, Nissan with a V formation 6 cyl can be powered by another Nissan V formation 6 cyl... I wanted to have a shot running a 1MZ, but that's a no-go... It has to be a car that was available to the Australian public from a dealership, on the approved list of models, or FIA approved homologation model... What I am wondering, is what race class is free as far as engine conversions go???

Bahahahaha! I'm loving the destroked 15,000rpm 4AG screamer idea. I wonder how much block decking could be done for that short stroke to keep pretty rod/stroke ratios? Only reason for chasing 200hp with a 3k is bragging rights, and the look of embarrassment when others find out they got thrashed by a 1.2L non-crossflow pushrod engine. :P Starlet wouldn't be eligible though, sad to say... It's got to be a model available via dealer network locally. (there are other criteria, but an imported starlet doesn't fit any of them :( )

Clarification was sought from the 2012 CAMS Manual of Motorsport... Swept volume it is... Also, 3NR IS eligible, in that it is the same engine type (being a inline 4 made by the same manufacturer) Though I don't think it's such a crash-hot proposition as it'd be a pain in the ass to fit, plus, as you've stated, too much hassle to get into the sub-2L bracket. Ummm... WHAT minimum weight? KE15 is an early model car, in that it's made before 1986, so weight restrictions don't apply. As stated in the 2012 Manual of Motorsport , the weight restrictions are only applicable to vehicles that are considered Late Model (which, I believe, is why the part about weight restrictions was put under section 17, titled Late Model) meaning I can quite happily race with my KE15 with turboed 3K, or 4K, or any other 4 cyl toyota engine I please, and not have any concern about weight... I'm pretty sure I read all that correctly, but feel free to correct me. I hope this enlightenment doesn't make you re-think racing with a dirty datsun... :doh: Only limiting factor other than a 7" tire, is the 36mm restrictor that must be placed in the inlet before the turbo... I wonder if that will limit a turbo 3K to under 200hp?

i have flairs in perth... $200 for all 4... PM me.

Behold the awesomeness!!! So crisp, so clean... or should that be like the song? So fresh...?

I second this! It's sort of a light, silvery version of a baby blue, but more awesome. I've seen a RA28 done in that colour, and it looks bloody awesome. Sort of a tribute to that baby blue the *E7* rollas came out in, which adds to the cool IMO. I'd personally go for some silver meshies, nothing extreme, but i think silver rims will make it look really really clean. If i didn't already have the colour scheme planned out for my T18/s I'd be doing it that colour...

I'm away for another month. :'( If this goes well, are you looking to run them with some frequency?

See where this is falling down? The assumption that the little A12 isn't tearing through those stock components like a 22 year old toolie on a double does of Viagra tears through 17 year old hotties at schoolies... Race engines push the boundaries of what is considered reliable for street use. Try making it to a 100,000 km service in any engine with triple the horsepower on standard internals. Sure, you could do exactly the same thing, and make the same power out of a 3K... Ethanol will be a bit kinder on it than running ULP, slap a 4K head on it to drop compression, and port and polish while you're there, lumpy, but well thought out cam (don't just chuck in the biggest cam you can find... little more duration, but bunch more lift is the way to go) pump in your 18psi, and reap the rewards... BUT... It will be needing far more regular servicing than a street engine, and will break far more regularly. Fortunately, it's a K engine... how much is a stock 3K worth these days??? People are giving the darn things away free a lot of the time! Just make sure you keep your top end well serviced, and don't worry about chewing through blocks, pistons and rods... So long as your head stays tight, the bottom end is disposable. That, and do what the big boys do... have spare engines to swap over the racing weekend. Just talking about that sorta makes me want to give it a go... 200hp turbo 3K engined KE15 anyone?

137E Mmmmm K engine that might use something like this... Centrifugal weights could actually assist with high rpm balancing... 180ps from a K based engine, and 10,000rpm. Makes me happy in the pants.

Mmmm, Dream drive? I'd love to take the Supa Cuda out for some spirited cornering in a mountain pass.

me and a mate of mine manualed an MX83. The MX73 is easier again. clutch pedal and master from an *A6* celica supra bolts up (it even has the holes pre-drilled to suit) and M-W5* bellhousings are friggin everywhere. any M manual will have a bellhousing you can use, since they are ALL interchangable. Sell the T5, do the W conversion, and have change left over... 5M flywheel and clutch work fine, but for less than $1500, my mate and I did custom 1 piece tailshaft, custom heavy duty clutch and all conversion gear...

Fastest? is this as in, what is cheap and easy to do, which will give good results for a dedicated track car, that can be a little bit dodgey? Look at some of the tried and true methods. For under $2,000 T series diff out of a RT Corona (leaf sprung already) I've got one from an RT104 that was taking a LOT of abuse from an SR20, so they are strong enough. 3.8 Commo engine. Either track down a manual, or, for cheaper and easier, go auto and mess with it. There's simple ways to lock toyota autos, so I don't imagine it would be much harder with a Holden tranny. Necessary fuel line stuff, pump lines filters etc. Straight pipe, out the side (for extra cool) exhaust Properly made and balanced tailshaft. Please don't scrimp on this. R31 front struts with cheap/nasty coilovers... I do think this could be collected for under $2,000 You end up with: Big vented rotors on the front, and bigger drums on the rear T series goodness for not so much crunch-snap Decent enough power and torque for hauling around a short course/hill climb/motorkhana 4x114.3 PCD converted for uber rim selection Things to remember. It's often cheaper to buy a whole crashed commo at auctions. Pickles in WA often has manual V6 commos go for as little as $500-$700 for the whole car. T series diffs out of the Coronas are a decent piece of kit, though the spring seat mounts are different. Weld on a piece of 5mm plate... problem solvered Use a factory Auto KE20 if possible... Larger trans tunnel may negate the need to cut it up. I can't say exactly, but if you're using a manualised Auto, then there's no clutch to screw around with. Muchos Easyos R31 struts bolt up to KE20 control arms on the bottom, but will need springs and stuff sorted to fit at the top... If you got any nounce, you should be able to work something out with that. Things I don't know... If the sump on the V6 will be easy, How much clearance for exhaust (Not that it matters... It's a track car, just cut a straight pipe through the side of the front quarter for the flames to come out. :P) I'm told it's been done before, so there's obviously a way to do it... As with any conversion, things can get real expensive, real quick. But, with track only cars, so long as you have regular chats with the people who are approving cars to run at the events, and keep them happy. things CAN be done cheaply by those with even a little bit of skill. I know of a speedway car that is regularly (about every second meet) grinding back and re-welding the snapped engine mounts they are running. The guy can't weld to save his life, but they look good enough to keep inspectors happy, so that's good enough for him) and finally, Safety first. Don't forget your seatbelt, roll cage for WHEN you flip it, and lots of tires to smoke.

Very impressive new look and feel. Only gripe I've got, is the 'new content' is a bit hard to trawl, particularly with glancing over which states things are for sale in. I'm not sure if the comments earlier apply to that, but I did like the way it had a seperate column for the area the thread was located in the old style. The way it is now, with it underneath the title, it's a bit harder to scan through, but I'll learn to live with that. Oh, and what's the "vote this post down/up"? I just noticed it now... What does that do? and was it in the forum pre-upgrade? Wow, i really don't pay attention sometimes

Ohhhhh! it's so purdy! I want to copy the paintjob on mine. I love it!

And the winner of the 'Oh My God, that is FAT!' Award goes to...