mikey_m

OK Guys To Explain the conversion, there is a little more than just changing the brakes. The whole conversions looks like this. - Corona Struts Converted to Coilovers (Otomoto Kit) - Noltec Camber / Castor Tops - Corona Hubs - Corona Twin Piston Calipers - Corona DBA Slotted Discs - Corona XT130 LCAs - Corona Steering Arms - JB1712 Master (Pajero) - 14" Wheels Without adjusting any camber at the top, the car sits at 0', there is tonnes of movement still available, I am hoping for anything between 1.5' to 2.5' So as you can see there is a little more than jsut upgrading the brakes. All the above fits without any fabrication or special adjustments, steering arms did not hit the wheels, turns left to right 3.5 full rotations. Standard KE steering arms do not fit this conversion, I have read but not tried AE86 steering arms. This might be the next step in understanding this conversion. I hope this helps to clear up the conversion.

Colgate

JB1712 is the correct part

Go the bigger master for this conversion, AWESOME!!!!!! Talk about and awesome upgrade, so easy and cheap too.

Master Time Local Shop has differing part no's can anyone confirm? Local has the following: - NF = JB1762 - NB/NC = JB1712

It is now all working on the standard master, but do not like how far I have to push down, while some like it, I am finding heal toeing and left foot braking difficult, will be upgrading mast this week.

Calipers are at the front, no issues here. Looks like the bleed nipples are just screwed intot he wrong hole, should be easy but will need the longer hoses.

OK I think I might have the bleed option worked out. I noticed on the calipers that the bleed nipple is the lower, where the brake line attaches to the top. I think I need to swap, so the air that rises can get out correctly, that means I need longer brakes hoses.

Awesome, Yeah the MC seems unknown, but Alex is on the $$$, but I don't want to push too far, (Cannot easily heal toe at that point), so will look at a new MC. Any Suggestions.

I have installed some XT130 Twin Pots in my KE They seemed to bleed OK, and was firm prior to driving, but now very soft and many pushes needed to get pressure up. 1. Have I done a piss poor effort of bleeding them? 2. Perhaps I need a better/bigger master? Thoughts and comments please?

I have just completed the following. XT130 Strut, Converted to Coilovers - As per article, work a treat. XT130 Hubs DBA Slotted XT130 Discs XT130 Twin Pot - Sumiatomo Calipers EBC Greenstuff Ceramic Pads All Cheap and easy, seems to initially be braking OK, but need to spend more time bleeding brake lines. Not quite right here, might need new master.

Exactly True, The reason that 4AGE is soo popular is because of how easy they are to pull off and create good gains. Because of this popularity not many people know about the 4AC and the capabilities, I have tonnes of research and there are good 4AC forums where people get good infor from. Besides any more than two valves per cylinder is excess weight 8/

^^^^^ Agreed - 4AC can be cheap fun, playing in NA land. I have the above setup on mine and it does very well and hold it own. And if you lucky there are TRD bits for them too.

You might need to reco your carb, I had a similar problem on my old one, when we blocked all air flow it would rev up on the bypass OK, but would not progress when open naturally. Basically there was gunk and crap all built up. Picked up a cheaper re-built carb from the local mechanic and viola it was all going again. Anyone else with thoughts?

Give it a go, 4AC are a "dime a dozen" I have had fun gett N/A power out of mine and haver been getting good results. AS already said Compression is right on for a little boost. The Block will handle it OK, head and pistons might be another story, but you won't know until you try

This is my KETO, still a work in progress, roll cage finished, seats and all in, ready for login with CAMS, but still need bash plates and make a bit sexier on the outside.

Hi Folks Decent Mods on a 4AC are out there and for some (me) 4AGE are not feasable/allowed. Some of us race in production cetegories that do not allow the 4AGE conversion. So please we do understand that $$$ / Power ratio are cheaper with a 4AGE, but for those that love 4AC power, please respect it. 4AC was first used by TRD in 82/83 in WRC and a few other weird categories, as a result there are some GFB's for them. In the US theire AE86 for many years only had the 4AC prior to the later version of with the twinky we all have come to love. As a result they have (Those in the US) have mountains of awesome mods, forged pistons, rods, manifolds, cams all pretty cool for a 4AC. I myself have the twin carb thing going on, some more detail of my setup is detailed in this thread http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=30046 The 4AC also has some good factory mods that can be done cheap with big results including 32/36 Webbers and adapters bought on ebay for pennys. Which generates only a small increase in power, but significantly better fuel econony over factory. So the word should be to embrace the 4AC, besides any more than 2 valves per cylinder is excess weight...... :lol:

I was hoping not to have to got to too mich effort, but we have decided to make our own. Running XT130E Struts Converted with STEEL coilover kit, twin locking perches usual drill here, captive spring 5k main springs. Shocks (I get really cheap discounts through a friend) so until I finish making up my mind here will be using Monroe GT Gas Shocks (Short Stroke) Noltec Camber/Castor Tops Sumiato Calipers (Thanks be to BLinded for those) DBA Slotted Rotors and EBC Green Stuff Pads (For Now at local club level, will go to Reds once we get into the forest) Note we are not lowering the vehicle, so should be an easy one, this is a PRC Rally Vehicle so hence why we are not lowering.

Now I follow, Cheers

Why spacers?

Also with the Manifold, your hot water outlet will not fit with it attached. I gave mine to a local fabricator and he moved it from straight to come out the front instead, tig welded and pressure tested for $50.

Yes it can be done, I have done it with mine, twin 40mm Dellortos. The carb's were the easy part, a friend of mine is in the Alfa club, most of them remove the Dellorto and replace them with webbers, so in their circle of friends they cost me $150. The Manifold, thats the hard bit, they are rare as 'Hens Teeth', but not impossible. Locally unless anyone want to part with them they will be hard to get. But in the US and Japan, much easier, I got mine from Japan a copy of a TRD set. They set be back $300 US ( at the time the dollar was good, so was aroung $350AU) You will need at least a mild cam too, you can get a regrind for around $120. And your off, I was drifting mine with a locked diff on tarmac, I was impressed with the overall improvements from stock. Keep in mind 4AGE goodiness is also likely to be not muich more in overall $$$$ spent, I did not have a choise as I complete in Production Based Motor Sport. Good Luck, if you need anyhting, let us know. Oh Yes, and the Club4AC guys know their stuff too.

I saw the FWD ones, even looked at the design and had a look to see how easy to was to re/design them to be RWD, but the engine mounts get in the way, so was a bit hard at the end of the day

Let me know how you go getting a set, I spent 6 months and all sorts of brands but never found anything, I know they exist but have also posted many WTB for them. If you get a group buy or something I would be interested. Just the extractors won't be enough, but add twin 40mm carbs and a cam and you will be looking pretty good

Yeah I could get 2nd hand ones, they don;t seem to come up often, but was more thinking about new ones, which manufacturers make them any more?