parrot

Yes they were mentioed in tacho thread sometime in the last few months. There was one for sale on ebay, which I think went for about $70?

I'd guess he wants it for a parts car. Realistically, potential buyers are going to be few, all of them likely to be on the Bellett forum and thus have seen it. This guy is obviously local so easier for you. Unless you're keen to put in the effort on this car, and that doesn't sound the case, move it on to someone who will treasure it, even if just for parts. Plus he knows you paid $10 for it, so don't get to carried away pricewise.

Just watched it here Boring as bat shit, saved only by vision of the KE25. I knew there was a reason why I don't watch this show.

I'm also a no show for this one.

Yes it will. Just make sure you get the zenki AE86 diff and not the kouki diff. Kouki has larger diameter axles. Have previously installed one in a TA22. I recently picked up an LSD centre in Japan for $100 The T is the important part. The 29 and 31 you mention signify the code for the gear ratio. The final number refers to the number of pinions and LSD designations. Note the actual numbers are codes, and uninterpretable without referring to the listings of what the codes mean. Check here Also be aware that zenki and kouki are NOT AE86 specific terms.

This is true. However in an AE86, the engine loom is only one of three body looms that run the engine (ignoring the power feed to the fuel pump). In a rear wheel drive factory set up, the charge/headlight loom & underdash loom also contain wiring feeds back to the ECU - VSV's and idle up circuitry, speed sensor, fuel circuit relay and injector power etc. The fuel circuit and injector power can be wired in easily enough, but I have seen a lot of really bad jobs I am amazed haven't ended up in a ball of fire.

It's quite simple. Welded diffs are not for cars driven on the street - ever. It will be the single worse thing you will ever do to your car, until you write it off (hopefully without hurting anyone else). Although something will probably break before then to save you from yourself.

The hard bit with the electrics in an ECU controlled car, is that the ECU can only do its job based on the information it receives. Map sensors, TPS's, cold start switches etc are all easy enough. But how many people install the idle up circuit properly? And then they are always complaining about idle characteristics, too high, too low. Car cuts out at the lights, or you sit there blipping the throttle to keep it going. I agree totally with KE70Dave, but as he says, you need to set it up right.

EFI will be a better car to drive as a daily, IF, and I mean IF it is wired in properly. This is not as easy as some people claim. Carb is simpler to install, but not much cheaper by the time you buy all the bits and get them properly set up on a dyno.

You haven't told us what sort of car you have, whether the wiring is factory or not (doesn't sound like it), what ECU you are using, whether the car has ever run or if this is a new problem etc etc..... If your wiring is not factory, you may not be able to check codes. If you have used an AE86 4AGE engine loom into something, you need to wire in power to the injectors (check the manual posted above for the wiring required). Otherwise it will start on the cold start injector then die when no fuel comes through the regular injectors. And Trev, I wasn't having a go (21 months ago!), it was a general comment in the context of the thread, not directed at you.

I reckon with all the power you will be putting out, you will need to convert to something bigger........and sell this centre to me! I'll swap you a KE25 crossmember :laff: :laff: :laff:

Good news on all fronts! Which diff had the LSD centre in it? The KE30 or whatever was already in it?

How the hell did I miss this thread! Congrats on an amazing pickup. Yet another incredible SA car resurfaces.

Make sure you let us know how you get on, solution, costs etc.

If you were in Melbourne, i would suggest going to http://www.performanceignition.com.au/ for advice. Clearly you will need a distributor in good condition with no play in the shaft. And as above, you will definitely need it recurved to suit the motor characteristics. These guys can do all that for you. Presumably there is someone in Sydney, but I'm sure they could post something to you. New / rebuilt electronic and points dizzys for K engines are available very cheaply on US ebay but will have stock advance curves. There is a bit of info in the Car electrical section, including this thread for some background.

Part number is 19100-16250 and it has 4-AGE noted on the label.

Wow, that Crown is a ripper. Need more pics of that!

Some more work done on the AE86. Got all my mintex 1144 brake pads in. Rears went straight in, but the fronts were a bit of a pain. Would not go in although they looked the same. Finally noticed the scalloping on the trailing edge of the pad was slightly shorter on the mintex pads. Bit of a hit with the bench grinder and in they went. Jumped in the drivers seat for a bit of an imaginary fang the other day, brushing the clutch pedal as I did. Seized solid. Hmmm. Picked up a master and slave real cheap on US ebay, but when it got here, the flange for the LHD master is different.... Oh well. Pulled the old one off to rebuild with the new parts. Long soak in WD40 and finally managed to blow the old piston out. Interestingly, there was only a small amount of rust around the firewall end of the bore. Cleaned up beautifully, reassemble with the new bits after a repaint of the master cylinder and it's as good as new. Repainted a bit of the firewall where some clutch fluid had bubbled the paint, fun trying to get the paint can in around brake master and inlet manifold but managed to keep paint off everything else. Should have done that when all that stuff was out of the car, but am glad it is done. It's the little things like this that take up so much time. Engine turns over freely after popping a bit of oil on top of the pistons. Hadn't run for about 4 years, so was slightly worried, but no resistance at all. May be alright there. Finally put the passenger side guard back on today, now almost looks like a car. Only panel left to put back is the driver side guard, although it is a white one as the old one had some rust in it, so will need to get around to spraying it. May look on AE86DC for an original red one as can't really be fagged spraying it. So what is left? Other than the guard, put the inside sunroof panel in which will likely mean pulling the sunroof out, bleed the hydraulics, check the dizzy positioning, get the car off the axle stands and tighten the various bushes. Then the big one. Connect the battery and see if it catches fire. The other thing I need to do is address the front inserts. Springs aren't captive at the moment and thinking about some SW20 KYB AGX front inserts with the T3 tube spacer. Aus to US dollar is pretty damn good so might be the way to go.

Blues Brothers Nippon style http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEuI3hpJY8Q&feature=player_embedded

In the words of the bard, "a man's got to know his limitations" Everyone gets stuck at a limiting point eventually, at these times, a mate is good to get you past it.

That looks horribly USA emissions related to me! I would ask on 3TCgarage.com US based and lots of 3TC and 18R aficionados on there. I reckon you will find what you need there.

My post edited appropriately :laff:

That would explain why he is selling his car. Police must be taking his licence off of him.

VSV? Do you have a picture of the valve you need replaced?