parrot

I thought more about it, and decided I didn’t want to have to drive 400km on a space saver again. So thought I would look around for something Volkswagen in a 19 inch wheel. Not sure why, but I see very few Mk8 GTI’s on the road. And these are an option wheel too. Stunned on marketplace to find 3 of the same wheels for $200 each. Some poor P plate kid hit a pothole on the way to Adelaide and destroyed a wheel. Brand new from VW they are $1500 each. I saw his quote, and the wrecked wheel. So not unreasonably he bought a set of some aftermarket wheels for under $1000 and sold these. 2 of them are as new, while the third had a little gutter rash. So that one is my new spare for when I go outside the metro area. I couldn’t get around to his place fast enough. The other two can go up in the roof just in case. It has been a new experience watching like a hawk for any potholes.

I have to say i was very impressed by how well it handled, until i got the deflation warning. Oh well. The reason i was going so fast is I was concerned about someone coming the other way and chipping the paint. My avatar i have to admit is some mad Irishman I found very many years ago. This was the first opportunity I've had to really open her up on some challenging roads after 10 mths of ownership. And I went nowhere near it's outlet limits. Amazing that something you can potter up to the shops in can be so incredibly quick and raucous when given its head. You really do see a different side of the car other than just blasting away at the lights. Phenomenal. I had been aiming to buy a GR Corolla for a couple of years prior to giving up on Toyota and buying this. I see one in the carpark at work regularly, and it's actually a damn ugly looking thing.

As long as you are having fun! I have had a solid stream of 'family stuff' delay me for years..... But if I wander out into the garage, I get all warm and fuzzy inside. My kids laugh at me, but I'm happy, and now I'm finally gettiung somewhere. Don't stress, you will get there.

Don't drive down dirt roads at 100km/hr when you have 235/35 R19 tyres! $440 lesson after puncturing at the bead. Also, google maps doesn't differentiate between bitumen and dirt roads. My Volkswagen GTI Mk 8 however is a phenomenal car, and had the best day driving around the King Valley in Victoria yesterday on way to Winton Historics. Best $440 I ever spent!

The panel van guys will be in a frenzy if they wake up to this. How do you find someone to remake a seal?

That makes no sense. Read it again and correct it with a proper question

It pops up occasionally, then disappears.

Can’t believe I didn’t think of that! Was lying bed last night thinking about getting a bigger fan. Oh well, better welds or better lungs? Perhaps I’ll just be sensible and allow the fumes to clear before looking at the weld!

Thanks for that. I had a fun afternoon. The key thing I found was keeping the mig wire short out of the gun to the contact point. And starting the next spot off the edge last one. And as you say going slow and giving it a chance to puddle. I have a fan to blow away the fumes though as it means i am getting pretty close to the weld, and when I lift the mask to have a closer look i was getting a good breath of fumes. Love watching your work!

It's behind the rear seat tank. This is the part number. 83320-19205 If you google it various options come up pretty cheap.

I'm getting stuck into my KE15 at the moment, dealing with the rusted area inside the scuttle panel at the heater air intake. Very much a beginner welder and learning as I go on an area that won't be visible. I've quickly learned with butt welding not to have the two pieces of metal flush, as the penetrance isn't there. Soon as you grind it off, the joint is week and you are pretty much back where you started. Back out to have another go.

Sounds very reasonable

Is it just me, or has this section disappeared from the forum?

There are a lot of parts to hunt down for the AE86 aircon and they are old, worn out and expensive. If you can find them. But the upsurge in AE86 prices has people looking to restore to factory. If there are modern alternatives in a complete kit you can retrofit I would be doing that. What has your research thrown up so far.

12 years later I’m tipping he no longer has the car! What’s your indication for thinking you might need them?

The airpump is part of the emissions so you don't need that, or the cat con. Cut your losses and put a non pollution engine in it. These guys have a KE55 listed on facebook right now. Gamage Motors Corolla ke 55 parts available 0773180126 Galle

Surely you can source a replacement original fitment Carb and distributor locally. I think you are going to be chasing your tail forever and need to revert to stock fittings. I expect you know that the U designation relates to emissions. So while the various vacuum lines are superfluous, it may not be happy if you get them wrong.

is it still running on LPG?

Can't help with WA, but you can always post yours to Performance Ignition. They have been around for very many years. https://performanceignition.com.au/p/troubleshooting

Also try the AE82 Corolla Owners Group page on facebook. Failing that I would get yours rebuilt. You wont find a new one easily/reasonably.

If you are in Melbourne, there is a 1987 & 1988 AE82 at Pickapart in Kilsyth, and a 1986 at Broadmeadows. No idea if they still have its distributor.

Unfortunately 4AGE's are also well known for it. Especially those without a distributor heat shield. Suffered it myself on an ae82 twin cam. From memory the late 4AC in Australia had a Bosch unit. Realistically it's never going to be reliable now. Best bet to replace it. If you can have it off the road, consider sending it to a distributor rebuild place like Performance ignition in Melbourne. It may not be (very) cheap. Or just try to source a complete distributor somewhere else and hope it isn't affected, and the bearings/seals are OK. And heat shield that.

I'm thinking it has an electronic distributor? This can happen with heat soak into the internal ignitor module. At a minimum try and heat shield the distributor. One it cools off, it will generally then start

You need to test power going into the element, power coming out of the element. Also the quality of the earth. If they are good, it has to be the element. Back in the day you could but element repair kits, which was basically something you painted on over the break - once you found it. Here you go, can still buy it: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/126223599329?chn=ps&_ul=AU&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1kD6G9jjDT8mvYIenkS9Kpw57&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=126223599329&targetid=1740279243329&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071325&poi=&campaignid=18277121424&mkgroupid=142426603833&rlsatarget=pla-1740279243329&abcId=9301724&merchantid=5320211051&gclid=Cj0KCQiAqsitBhDlARIsAGMR1RheL8-GxprntG8HPrWh8ksujXbWJuh-2fcv6kxWGUVvj3UVP23GEVkaAlMkEALw_wcB

In a nutshell. Since you are in the US you are lucky. As these parts can be sourced locally and pretty cheap. Buy a local T series rear end out of a TE27 as it is the correct width and is already leaf spring. TA22 is wider and coil sprung (unless very early. An early (Zenki) LSD centre will bolt in possibly needing to shave the axles. If you want to convert to disc brakes that's up to you and you can research what fits. You may want to pay someone to design a fancy axle location setup if you are really going to have that much power. There is no such thing as rear struts in this shell. Buy a TE27 pedal box so you have hydraulic clutch to suit the later T50 gearbox. You can put AE86 derived coilovers in but will need TE27 steering arms to bolt them in. It will affect your front geometry as the stub axle inclination is different so you need adjustable camber tops to pull the struts in. Can only do that if you have coilovers as standard springs will hit the strut tower. Front crossmember will need to be modified whatever it comes out of. A 4A engined donor crossmember will be too wide. Have a look at local Starlets, some of which I think already have rack and pinion, and are narrow, but you will still need to do some fabrication there including modifying the engine mounts to 4A and connecting to your steering column. It all impacts steering geometry and is more complicated than it might seem. A tail shaft will need to be custom made as anyhing factory fitment will be too long. I disagree with KE70Dave about the wiring to the ECU. To get it all running properly is complicated and will directly impact the driveability and practicality of the car. If going any bigger than 270 duration cams, or fitting ITB's as you say, will require an aftermarket ECU. Not sure what smog rules are in California now but you may want to look at that first. A lot of people build cars to 95% completion, then sell them because they can't sort out the engine management properly. In a standard AE86, there are three seperate looms, engine, dash and body. If they are incomplete or not talking to each other, the car turns into a pig. Any fuel setup is going to be fully custom with the items you mentioned. The fabricator can work that out. It's going to cost you a LOT of money if someone else is doing it.