parrot

Have you connected a vacuum line from the inlet manifold to the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm?

What’s front tyre wear like? I would get a front end alignment and have a really good look at the rear trailing arm bushes also. What you don’t say is if it has been modified in anyway.

I think it’s pretty safe to say that for your purposes, you wouldn’t need to go down that route. Its fascinating though

Details Jono?

3 k-b engines were 10:1 compression from the factory. 50 years down the track, your best bet is to find the best condition head you can, and not get excited about whether it is a C or B head. Get it shaved, ported matchported to the manifold etc. etc the rollaclub wiki has some useful info too https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/How_to_build_a_tough_K_motor

Phew! You need to get your nan to write up a tutorial. I think we all have those little areas to blend in

I hope you didn’t break your original screen as they are completely unavailable....... A few years ago a group of us got together and had to get a special run made to order.

Got the lower arms out today. I should also add, I had these pressed in when new at a bullish nationwide suspension specialist, so that presumably doesn’t explain it. There is no doubt the urethane is very dry and crumbles away. Had planned to press them out as now I have a big enough vice, but can’t find a large enough section of pipe and of course everything is shut because of Easter.....

That is a serious effort. Very impressive. Edit: Bambie?

SL versions in either KE15 or KE17

And of course the old street directory! Getting dirtier and dirtier and the outer pages falling off, not helped by getting wet from leaking seals, whether it was tossed on the floor, or wedged in a crevice somewhere!

Well the AE86 is sitting in the shed with a set of Weds Albinos in the boot. The KE15 & TE27 also have a selection of spare parts awaiting their respective rebuilds. The reality of life means my choice of daily is currently the workhorse xtrail. As this has the false floor sliding shelves in the boot, it means I can carry all manner of stray tools, odd parts and bolts, occy straps, rags, stuff I might use down the beach and god knows what else. But the other reality of modern cars is that it never breaks down in any fixable way on the side of the road. So most of this is just a mobile shed. What does get used are the zillion reusable shopping bags and old fruit boxes for the shopping, foldable school branded chair for hockey, cricket, football athletics etc. Most of the time I am lugging about cricket and hockey bags! Back when old Corolla’s and Datsun’s were my lot, I always carried a substantial tool kit, axle stands, jumper leads, oil, water and often a stray starter motor and assorted other spares like points, alternator brushes, lengths of wire, radiator and heater hoses, and so on. So much in fact, it is a wonder the car moved with all the additional weight. The other key difference is that back then, this stuff actually got used reasonably often. Cars really have come a long way. Even now, when I see an old Jap car at a pickie wrecker, I always check the boot to see what has been left behind

Actually I had a quick look on the picker wrecker sites in Melb and there are a few AE92’s about. Can’t remember if all AE92’s are EFI however. Most pickies have a website with stock listings and even photos of the cars, and price lists these days. Not sure where you are, but in Melbourne we have pickapart, imlachs, jolly’s and Harvey’s. All of them do this.

Hmm Dave hasn’t had his coffee this morning. But yes, you will have to trawl the wrecking yards or look out for the possibility someone is breaking one via the various forums. Realistically, these cars are getting pretty old now and getting harder to find in yards. Price will depend on whether it’s some bloke breaking a car in their backyard, a pickapart wrecker, or a Toyota specific yard selling gold plated tanks. Make sure you get the pump and sender included.

Welcome. You are going to need to post some pictures of the setup to get some meaningful answers I would say

Here you go from the rollaclub wiki. https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Blocks a little hard to find if on the mobile view, but a lot of info in there. Go to the three bars top right of the front page and go to wiki

There has actually been a bit of discussion about this recently. Go to the last page of Stu's thread for the right way to go. Also see here where there has been a discussion of the difficulties with doing it without coilovers, especially if you want to get really low

$1500. On yahoo right now. Stand out from the crowd, and no need to upright your engine

I struggle to follow the door negative and door positive which one do we use on an older Toyota and where should it actually be connected?

Welcome Jon Have a look here which is quite a good start https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page#1x

What a classic. i reckon that bloke is paid to stand there and his left foot stops the whole lot from collapsing outward.

They are meant to be a tight fit, but once it gives they should separate easily. Be super careful not to round them off...... Edit, or twist the hard pipe!

Same. But I reckon the one piece manifold gaskets are a good extra https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-COROLLA-3K-4K-MOTOR-HEADER-EXTRACTOR-MANIFOLD-GASKET/253046390465?fits=Make%3AToyota&hash=item3aeabd7ec1:g:PI0AAOSwYGFUrbTW

Ideally empty the tank as it can be surprisingly heavy when manoevering around under the car

That’s the pressure line. The small nut as you call it is like a large brake line fitting, and screws into the body of the larger ‘nut’. To undo it, hold the larger ‘nut’ with a spanner and undo the smaller ‘nut’