parrot

My baby

SilverRA23 has documented the saving of what became my car really well. I am lucky these days as I have reasonable skills to get done most of what it needs, the internet and forums (you guys) make it possible to locate most necessary parts, and I am at the stage of my life where I can afford to have some not too expensive toys. I do have to accept however that with a young family and all that entails, that I can't be in any hurry. But I'm not. Never expected I would end up with three toys though...... Mind you, if I keep spending like I did on yahoo japan last night.......! That was the big attraction for my KE15 however, being complete was the most important thing. Refurbishment is fine, sourcing suitable parts for these things is a real problem. So Cam, if you are passing anything on, let me know :y: Way back when, a mate of mine had a genuine Nissan Prince Skyline GTB in need of total rebuild, including engine bearings and rust. Even then, you needed to get the bearings made and parts were non existent. This car had been the press test mule when they brought cars out to race at Bathurst. Had the racing fuel tank in the boot, triple webers etc. I lived in a terrace house in Carlton and my 'workshop' was the cobblestone lane behind the house. Plus I was renting and about to stop working to go back to Uni, and had no money. Could have got it for nearly nothing, which the guy who now lives around the corner from me did. Every time I see him it breaks my heart. Small world. And even worse, I gather he decided it needed too much work so broke it up. But you can't have everything.

No, you have to guess :y:

This is my latest acquisition

Why not? There are a lot of crappy bodged fuel injected cars out there, and to do it even half arsed isn't cheap. Manifolds are regularly up for sale and a reasonable set of carbs not too expensive. Ignition is simple enough to sort out, get it dyno tuned and away you go. Have a look through the members ride section, there are bound to be some in there. Also look on Toymods. But I would suggest staying with Weber 40 DCOE's or Mikuni 40's. If you get 45's you will just have to choke them down. Stay away from Dellorto's as parts are too hard to get.

I deal a bit with assorted courier companies through work, and they are pretty ordinary some of the time. People slag off Australia Post, but I have never had a problem, including 4 rims from Qld to Melbourne.

There are a couple of AE86/AE71 bellhousings for this car. 4AGE has the slave on the right side away from the exhaust, 3A - 4AC has it on the left. Other way to check what you have is looking at the engine type cast into the outside of the bellhousing at the top. In Australia we didn't get rear wheel drive 4AGE's, rather 4AC's, but for some reason the bellhousings have 3A cast into them. I use the slave out of a TE72 in my 4AGE version bellhousing, and it fits perfectly without any need to adapt things. TE72's and AE86's do not have any adjustment at the slave and the throw out rod seats in a dimple in the pressed steel clutch fork. My dim recollection is that the throw out rod for an early T50 sits within a hole in a cast clutch fork and has facility to adjust the throw out? I am not sure if you can use this TA22 one however. I would also recommend you have a look on Toymods, there are some pretty amazing TA22's on the members rides thread, including 4AGE equipped amongst other wilder conversions. Great tech threads too. One of the 4AGE/AE86 gurus (Hen) has moved from Australia to Denmark and you may want to find him on Toymods where he is active . Edit: another good Euro site for 4AGE stuff is aeu86.org, where you will also find all the engine and wiring manuals you may need.

Cheers Felix

And if warrenfromtonny is having a go at me, my source was the fulcrum catalogue which I could reasonably expect to provide accurate information. Not hand me down posts from other forums. If anyone has a set of leaf spring shackles that are too big for KE1x's but correct for late KE2x per Felix, whose experience I don't doubt, I am happy to take them off your hands.

I never thought I would ever find a KE15, then out of the blue........ Can't tell you how much I love that car.

That's because it isn't a bumber bar. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=31734

You also need the specific fuel sender and (I think) oil pressure sender. Fuel sender not that easy to get. I think the reason they get passed on. The pinouts are around on the net so that bit shouldn't be too hard.

The idler arm bush repair kit is actually a superpro manufactured urethane item, also branded fulcrum suspensions. Part number SPF0686K. Retail is $50.99 They also list SPF0049K Location Description: Leaf Spring Bushing All Important Instructions: Number of Kits Required Per Vehicle: 1 Single Kit Contents: 8 Bushings Suspension Location Applied To: Rear and SPF0048K Location Description: Spring Front Eye Bushing Important Instructions: 49.4mm OD bushing Number of Kits Required Per Vehicle: 1 Single Kit Contents: 4 Bushings Suspension Location Applied To: Rear See above regarding idler bush availability (apparently). Can't say regarding the leaf spring bushings, but do note, this bush is also used in KE2x series, whereas the idler bushing is specific to KE1x.

Good man! He need never know.....

I've got Jap KE17 plus KE/TE2x complete part books, UK KE/TE2x collision parts book, ADM fiche AE86 which includes all the GT stuff, USDM fiche for KE1x, KE/TE2x and AE86. Plus a Jap TA/RA 23/28.

No fair, I want to see a photo - one will do. I can tell you that K and 3K's use the same piston, so presume the capacity is in the crank?

Thanks for the tip on this Cam. I popped into Repco during the week and the bloke called and spoke to Fulcrum whilst I was there. Apparently I bought the last KE1x idler bush kit they had. He also said they weren't planning on making anymore as they were a slow mover unsurprisingly.

AE86 struts will not bolt to KE20 steering arms. The distance centre to centre of KE20 arms is 80mm, AE86 is 85mm. You can fit another model 85mm steering arm to the KE20 balljoint (AE86, TA22 etc) BUT the KE20 balljoint pin is a smaller diameter in comparison so you would need to fit a spacer to stop it swimming about inside the hole (edit; not a great option). Also, these arms are far longer than the KE20 110mm arm. How to fix this? Source some TE27 steering arms which have the 85mm bolt pattern, correct balljoint pin hole and are also 110mm long. Problem is they are difficult to find, you need to look in japan or the USA. There are a set on US ebay right now............ Also you need to fit the KE20 tops.

I am guessing fresnoboi is located in the US. If so, a good option for you would be some AE86 GTS struts with vented disc and 114.3 pcd. You will need some steering arms (steering knuckles) out of a TE2x, which you should source easy enough over there. AE86 struts will then bolt straight in, with a bit of positive camber which can be managed with some adjustable strut tops.

Back in the days we used to play around with different viscosity oils, but these days you throw the piston away and put some inserts in them. Sort of fun seeing how they work and everything, and I am surprised that a car that old would still have 'wetlegs'. Even with inserts we used to add as much engine oil as could fit around it inside the strut tube for "cooling". Did it work, no idea. Just one of those things you did.

The ones you laugh about later........10 years later.

Absolutely as per Felix regarding spare radiator hoses & water as above, and at very least stuff to block off any heater hoses that blow on the way. Probably some brake fluid as the seals have probably dried out and you may need to top up. Don't give them a workout, and make sure calipers/cylinders haven't seized.

And if it doesn't work, you can stick a regular gasket back on.

Presumably any EFFECTIVE method of reducing heat to the inlet manifold without reduction of inlet charge / exhaust gas flow has to be worth a try. I say go for it.

You can definitely use the stuff you have there. JDM or ADM doesn't matter. Only problem is if you try to use late bigport sensors / injectors etc on an early bigport loom. They have different plugs and won't fit. "Early" plugs are generally yellow or green, with greyish injector plugs. i.e. what you have. But that loom is a mess. If you can wait, I would recommend sourcing a rear wheel drive loom from somewhere. They come up often enough and don't generally cost much.