parrot

As if they would know. Cordless drill to drill out the spot welds and cordless angle grinder for the rest. Both available very cheaply at bunnings

You win!

This one was the best of the lot Shot with Z750i at 2009-08-04

Welcome! And more pics!! This could be a fight to the death in the scrabble for KE15/17 parts.........

I was there Sunday but didn't go near it. Was still there a few weeks ago. I posted this on the Bellett forum last year http://www.bellett.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=222 But as KEhendo notes, it is fairly well stripped now. It is in the back left corner as described above

GA61XX (an absolute legend if you ask me) over on Toymods has done a guide with lots of pics on how to convert a Nippondenso 2T or 2TG, 3T-c & 18R-c to an electronic dizzy very easily using donor parts from an RA60, RA65, RT133, or '85 RT142,( Not the '86 ) dizzy. Essentially you take the coil /ignitor plus the dizzy internals and install them into your recipient engines dizzy body. See his photo here I wonder if they will fit inside a K dizzy body..... I only have one K dizzy here in my K engine which I am not inclined to strip at the moment, but if you are keen, I picked up all the parts on the weekend for only $55 at my picky wrecker (and that included a complete dizzy as I was in a hurry). Full thread is here

Be a little careful with Gira. He is adept at not answering questions he doesn't want to. Or saying he'll send photos, then doesn't. You sitting there thinking, will I bid or not. He does sell on a bit of rubbish, but also sells good stuff too. YOU just need to sort the wheat from the chaff. Bit late now, cause this auction is nearly over.

That would be the one :wink: He was trying to give me some motivation to get on with mine, so we can get out on cruises together. Just may have worked........ God does that thing pull!

I have some new KE1x balljoints coming by post, and some new KE2x ones in the shed so can specifically measure and compare in a couple of days. I can tell you they are different part numbers.

Replied regarding rear quarter in your other thread. There are 4 KE30's there now, three in the Toyota row and one with the Commodores. All are reasonably poor panel wise other than the quarter I have told you about. Otherwise nothing new. There is a new very tidy RA60 there if anyone has one of those. There is also a complete T18 in the carpark for sale, no price shown. Has a bad repair to the C pillar however, at a quick glance. May find its way inside.

Just got home from having a quick blast as a passenger in one of the import jobbies. Mmmmmmmmm! Perhaps the KE15 can wait a bit and I'll do the TE27 first :wink:

There are 4 KE30's at Centre Rd this morning. A new one arrived while I was there, plus there is another one around in the Commodore row for some reason. Only one of the left rear quarters is reasonable (in the Toyota row). It has a wheel well full of water but I think that is since it arrived with the boot left open. It has a rust bubble at the wheel arch but otherwise is reasonably good, there is a small indentation near the petrol filler. I took a photo on my phone but can't download that on this computer, will try and remember at work tomorrow.

Never for general sale. There are a couple of private imports getting around. There are a few more "tarted up" KE25's around, or in the process of being built up.

I'll be there tomorrow so will have a look.

Finish the repair, paint etc, then you spray fish oil inside the cavity. It just puts a coating on the surface that resists water getting in. You can buy it in pressure pack cans these days, one will be enough. Really good to protect cavity areas you can't otherwise reach via a small hole. Once you get started, you will end up spraying the whole car with it.

The ONLY way to fix it for ever, is cut back to clean metal, weld in a replacement section and then fish oil it. Then make sure your boot doesn't leak. As well as checking the seal, make sure there is no water and muck getting in from the back of the wheel well. The section near the fuel filler is a little trickier as it has that swage line very close. Presumably that came about due to damage. It really depends on how large the damage and rust area is as to how you manage that.

Hi Caliba Have a look at Raven's thread. It explains all you need to know about KE2x dashpads. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=21963 Essentially the answer is they are different but they fit, and only one pad is now available new anyway.

I'll pay that! It's called a joddler or joggler. As described, it puts a very small step into metal sheet when fabricating panel repair sections. This particular model can also punch a neat hole so you can "spot weld" with the mig.

If you look at Adam's photo above, the top O ring is the critical sealing ring, BUT if the two insulators aren't sitting right, the injector will be too loose allowing the injector to move about and possibly not seat correctly - thats bad. You can't see the bottom insulator in the photo very well, but the ones there are screwed. Worthwhile checking you have the correct fuel rail spacers also.

VERY close. It does do that, but has a more interesting main purpose.

Come on rolladudes, someone must have an idea what it is?

For completeness, have now spliced this earlier AE86 detail into this thread. Doesn't look much different although I have put all the interior back in. This is my ADM car which I converted to 4AGE power about 15 years ago with an English engine loom spliced into the ADM loom. Disc brake rear end etc etc. Shot at 2009-07-30 Anyway, it started playing up after 10 years of faultless running. So taken off the road and stuck in the shed. Shot at 2009-07-30 Eventually worked out the problem, a dodgy connection at EFI relay 2 due to a massive soldered connection to the injectors. Shot at 2009-07-30 So decided to rebuild it properly this time. In these days of Ebay and the net, sourcing parts is easy so this is now essentially in GT apex spec, or will be when all the bits are bolted back on. Have a habit of fixing or installing something then deciding to pull it off again to "improve" something. Shot at 2009-07-30 Have made a few improvements along the way however :D Was trawling at pick and payless and came across a July 1988 VZV21 Camry auto V6 (2VZ-FE), with a twin core radiator for $55. Radiator inlet and outlet is on the same side as an AE86. Same basic design with plastic top and bottom tanks. You could look at it insitu and not even notice that it wasn't standard. Subsequently have noticed that the later V6 camry APPEARS to have the exact same radiator. Shot at 2009-07-30 Compared to a standard AE86 radiator, overall height from top of radiator cap to bottom of tank is identical, 470mm. Width of camry is 710mm whereas AE86 is 592mm. Thus there is about 59mm of radiator either side with out airflow. Now fitted, and it goes in nicely clearing the chassis rail on the drivers side and the battery tray on the passenger side Now that I have it actually sitting properly, the wiring loom still fits in its original location contrary to my original post. Shot at 2009-07-30 You need to relocate some lower locating brackets as the lugs are in a different position, although the lugs on the bottom of the camry rad are the same size as the AE86. I have taken the lower radiator mounting brackets from a ST162 and AE82 (drivers side bracket on these is a bolt on so easy to take off the donor) but make sure you get the rubbers too as these brackets have a bigger hole for the insulator to sit in. You do need to cut these brackets down to fit neatly to the AE86. You can still leave the AE86 brackets insitu as the camry lugs are a little inside so could refit the AE86 radiator if required. The top brackets do need to be relocated. Make sure you get the camry V6 jobbies as they have a D shaped moulding to suit the V6 rad, rather than a half moon shape found on everything else. I then extended these out by welding on a section of another bracket. Looking at this photo, the two inner bottom mounts are the new ones for the camry, the two outers are the original AE86 mounts. Shot at 2009-07-30 Shot at 2009-07-30 The inlets and outlets are placed about 30mm further over towards the drivers side once you centre the radiator. The standard bottom hose fits easily without modification. However the top hose would need to be altered essentially as the radiator outlet diameter on the top only is 34mm across compared to 31mm on the AE86. No big deal. I ended up using a top hose of a SA61 I think which was new and soft and fitted over the radiator easily. Just cut off the bit I needed. The camry radiator has a transmission cooler incorporated in the bottom tank as evidenced by two olived couplings which I have removed and plugged. Of course this radiator has twin thermos fitted so simplifies that too. Have double checked it fits with the hood down as I have taken off a guard and could see through. No smart comments re my (lack of) welding prowess thanks! And my remote filter setup for the oil cooler

Finally got my TE27 arms from the US. Latest pickup, a complete wiring loom from a 2TG TE27 in Japan, plus some KYB 8 ways for the rear. It has to be 'period' mods if you ask me. Have got a lot of parts for the 27 now. The gauge cluster and instrument cluster, centre console with original clock & radio, accel pedal, tailshaft, gearbox and engine crossmembers, pedal box, correct brake booster and master, induction box and filter housing, 8 way rear KYB's, new levin guard badges, seals and so on. I've got a couple of RA28 rear ends which I'll get cut down and converted to leaf spring. With the steering arms, I can put AE86 struts in the front, plus I've got AE86 discs for the rear Now just looking for the levin script badge for the TE27, plus a drivers side tail light for the KE15. Also picking up various suspension components and hopefully a K-B airfilter from somewhere. Bit worried they will all disappear as almost everything is obsolete, especially for the KE15. Thinking seriously of stockpiling a laminated windscreen for each car. Haven't actually worked on anything though :0 However, thinking about some short stroke options for the shocks which might get the 86 off axle stands and allow me to get the 15 in the shed.

Replace them all. All three of them per injector. They are cheap and readily available from fuel injection places. Pressurized fuel is not something you want spraying around your hot engine bay.

Aha! A mystery solved methinks. Shall watch with interest.