parrot

I have searched around but can't recall where I posted it. I think it was about 8mm longer than what I already had. But I also note that I had two slightly different length and presumably stock studs on my AE86 (fitted with JDM struts and rear disc diff). And note you can look at the Magna ones too.

Check the sigma / magnas too as I reckon the length is about the same. And they are far more common at the wreckers.

Sigma's across the generations have substantially longer studs. I have changed all mine over in the AE86, however I am uncertain if the FWD Toyota thread is the same. You would want to make sure the studs match your nuts obviously.

Yes, but syphilis, gonorrhea and chlamydia are treatable..... :)

Has it been on a dyno? You need to get it on one once you start fiddling with jetting & chokes. Ignition timing, cam timing and even incorrect float adjustments, fuel pressures can affect your economy besides the obvious answer of how you drive it. Check those things first before you start paying for dyno time.

Thanks guys. Well I finally started on the rear calipers this afternoon. I looked back over my Toymods build thread and see that I finished the front calipers in December 2007 and mentioned then that I needed to get on with the rears. Can't rush these things! But TE278U is putting the pressure on, so time to get on with it. Must say, the rear calipers are substantially more complicated than the fronts, but have got the first one stripped down. Hopefully I'll be able to get it back together again. Hasn't been registered for 7 years since it went in the shed. Then sat for 2 years before I started pulling it all down. I will probably fully register it when its finished, or may just put it on club reg, should be eligible next year.

Some inspiration for you. You are not alone..... http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/view...asc&start=0

Do you mean the front and rear screens, or the side windows? If you are referring to the front and rear screens, see here http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=32897 Of course if you cut them, you will need to replace the rubbers.

Been quietly working away behind the scenes locating various parts, mainly for the KE15 at the moment. New brake stuff, suspension components and so on. Still looking for some correct carb kits, and planning an engine pulldown for a suspected cracked piston. One thing I was super pleased about was my KE15 seats. Was unimpressed by the old style seats without headrests. So measured up the distance between the holes for what were presumably optional headrests (7 inches) and headed for pickapart. Found some black Mark 1 VW Golf seats with separate headrests and they are perfect. You can even adjust the angle they sit at, and most importantly they have plain vinyl on them and look the part matching well with the stock kE15 seats. Have finally finished sorting out the shed, sorting out parts for each car, and tidying up. Now need to get on with finishing the caliper rebuilds on the AE86, putting the drivers door and seats back in, front guards back on (one needs painting) and tightening everything up. Then I will start on the KE15. Today I actually attacked it and removed the towbar which required removing the rear bumper. Can't get over how good the boot is on this car, like new. If anyone reading this is interested in the towbar, let me know. Would prefer to swap for some KE1x stuff, otherwise will put it on ebay at some stage. Just the thing for towing the caravan to Qld on holidays.....

Linky no worky :) 3KB's had twin round filter elements within the oval housing from May 1970. K-B's and 3K-B's before that, the single oval filter element. The housings look to be sufficiently different. Subi element looks to be the way to go for the earlier models.

Thanks Redwarf. I spent a few hours last night trawling my 2007 Ryco catalogue, along with K & N, Wix and Fram online catalogues. The only one that is close is the Subaru filter mentioned above. It is also available as a direct replacement in K & N E2970. This filter is 47mm high compared to the KE15 55mm (at least the genuine and presumably correct filter in mine), so would require some packing. Borg-Warner used to make both a paper and foam replacement element for a K-B but this side of their business appears to have finished. They did supply quite a bit of aftermarket stuff back in the 80's. Would be keen to learn what the Ryco code for a KE15 twin carb element was before it became obsolete if any one knows.

Does anyone have any leads on these air filters? Specifically the oval one piece filters. Ryco obsolete, Toyota NLA...... If anyone has a part number in Ryco or any other brand, would love to know and I can try and cross reference. Last resort I will measure my old one up and see if there is anything close in K & N

I actually saw your sig last night and thought, "what a fantastic picture". Then saw your thread today. Great stuff!

Great stuff with those photos guys! Whose is the KE15/17?

Awesome RAC badge, nice touch!

Well I am guessing you are in the US?????? You need to give more info, at a bare minimum, the chassis codes and engine types.

I am going to run a mitsuba pump on both my 2TG and K-B. You can get Malpassi filterkings cheap from Canada (about $USD70 inc post). These act as a fuel filter and a pressure regulator for carbed engines. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Malpassi-Fu...n%3D5%26ps%3D63 Excuse the link. I have bought two of these from this seller. Have had personal experience with over pressuring the needles on twin webers on an L20B. Did a great job of washing the bores. I don't recommend it

Yes that's right. All the KE2x/TE2x Sprinters had them. The 4 door is a slightly odd looking thing. Have you got the Zebra print brochure Tally? I've also got an early model brochure.

Tally's top badge is a TE27 Trueno boot badge, and the sprinter script badges are TE27 Trueno front guard badges

That font continued on till TE5x/6x. It wasn't "modernised" till the Te71 then again with the AE86 etc

The KE1x bushes are quite different from the KE2x. 2 bushes per arm vs one bush. Facing the same problems as you, I just managed to pick some up in Japan. Unless some new old stock turns up somewhere, you may need to get some turned up in urethane, using your shells to guide measurement.

The Sprinter font from your badge was in use from xE2x but I think it is later too. I had a look through the Master part catalogues but can't find one the same up to xE3x KE15/17 had the quirky angular font as above. I have seen that badge before but can't for the life of me remember where.

I was over a fellow forum members place recently, and he was stripping out an AE86 that had taken a very hard hit in the passenger door area. The A pillar and B pillar were wrecked. Interestingly, the ECU was in the factory location behind the passenger kickpanel and had also clearly sustained damage in the impact. The car still ran. ECU's are clearly tougher than you would think, yet if you fry the internals, you can forget about it.

I have no intention of going 20 valve, but would maybe think of going coilpack on my 16 valve at some stage. I haven't looked into this at all, but wonder if you may have another market with 16 valve customers? I shall just dream about 2TG's.........

ADSL2+ or die! Sorry about that. Always takes a couple of goes to get imageshack right. If you keep clicking on the image, it will enlarge.