parrot

And I'll be there in the Renault!

A KE20 crossmember is not the same as a TE27 crossmember. Going by the assorted various posts above, it may be possible, I don't have personal experience of that. If it does fit, it is likely the engine position is not optimal. Having seen a genuine TE27, I can tell you there is very little room to spare once the brake master and carbies are in position. The top crossmember is TE27, bottom KE20 The angle of the insulator block face is different, and the towers they sit on are from memory, further forward and sit lower. To hard to get out of its current storage site but sure that's right. To do it properly, you will need to reweld the crossmember.

ae86drivingclub.com.au Also AE82 twin cams appear pretty regularly these days at pickaparts around the traps. Or buy a complete car cheap on ebay.

With your current configuration, the only adjustability is in cam timing.

That's what phone books and shops like Repco are for

Find a twin cam hatch at the wreckers or ebay, strip it out and fit to your shell.

Anything would be better than a Bell's parma. They're ordinary.

I can't believe I've never noticed this thread before. That really is a quality job. Also can't believe there hasn't been a post in a year and a half! Those shiny strut covers, were they new old stock or did you get them re done somewhere? If re done, what did they do. I've not had things plated before and need to learn the drill.

LOL I'm looking at it thinking, "geez, a bit high at the front. Must be a handful to drive.......THEN i see the car ramps.

I'm an apology. Will be building gingerbread houses at primary school :)

Remove the driveshaft from the hub on the gearbox end and carefully support them out of the way. I left mine connected at the wheel end. It is difficult to get them right out of the way. I may even have unbolted the front struts at the steering arm to enable a bit more clearance From memory, (it was a while ago), you remove the inner boot and slide the CV joint out of its casing. Be gentle with the CV!' Then drop the box. I would be putting some of the bellhousing bolts back in before I got underneath it and started fiddling with the driveshafts though.

I've pulled the box off by itself with the engine in the car. Hardest part was messing about getting the driveshafts up and out of the way. I would recommend changing the inner driveshaft boots while you are there. They are cheap to buy, and easy to do at the same time. It is also quite hard lining up the clutch driven plate as you can't look direct on very easily. Try and source a clutch aligning tool for a front wheel drive 4A. Lastly, the weight distribution in the box is off centre, so it can be a prick lifting and trying to jiggle it about on a jack, and you can guarantee it will fall off a few times. Essentially you need to get under it yourself and lift so having the clutch correctly centered is a good idea! Best $15 or so bucks you will ever spend. At least that's what you will be thinking when its finished. Not a hard job, just a bit of a prick.

Correct! No VIN number then they can't look it up on their Electronic Parts catalogue (EPC). And anything before about 1977 doesn't exist on the EPC. So logically, if it doesn't appear on the EPC, Toyota will deny all knowledge. Very much tongue in cheek. Sorry Philbey!

Although as we all know, they will deny it exists as it won't come up on the EPC......

Commodore wagon rears is a well known option for low AE86's, which is what I got them for. Perhaps overkill in what will be a pretty much stock KE15 but will probably give them a try at some stage. But does give some food for thought when looking for upgrade options for KE1x and KE2x where there doesn't seem to be much available off the shelf. Th AE86 has koni reds in the back presently. I'll pull one of those off soon and measure it.

How about these? Standard fitment Bilsteins out of a VH Commodore wagon (GMH part number) via pickapart. Extended 530mm Compressed 330mm They might be a good option??? The standard KE15 dampers are only 32mm diameter!

Whatever it is, it sure has been a good read. Will be interesting to see if Toyota actually investigate it.

Stock original fitment Toyota (Tokico) rear damper from a KE15 Extended 530mm Compressed 352mm TE27 KYB 8 way adjustable Extended 562mm Compressed 380mm This measurement is from the centre of the lower mount to the top of the uppermost hat, which sits on top of the bumpstop. Does not take into account the insulating rubbers between damper body and chassis. The diameter of a standard damper is almost half that of the aftermarket TE27 damper.

If you can wait till Saturday, i'll pull one out of the KE15 and compare it to the TE27's in the shed.

I'm a null as i have no idea! I'll go anywhere that has a decent parma!!

Don't worry, we'll stick a Chicken Schnitzel in a padded postbag, pop a coldie in with it, and express post it to you!

I will be in for this. Be a good chance to catch up with a few faces I'm yet to meet!

Centre Rd again. There is a fairly rough KE36 station wagon, plus an AE93 4AGE twin cam. The smallport isn't too picked over though the cam covers, cam gears and injectors are gone. Neat charcoal interior.

Try and get the later 7 rib block rather than a three rib earlier block

As it's a club car, i would go 4AGE. You can get serious with cams and all the power being high in the rev range won't cause you any dramas. As others have said, there is ample parts availability including lots of performance options.