parrot

There was at thread on a related car recently http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=34059 As you see, they were basically standard cars. Interestingly, when you read the article in that post, they keep going on about problems with pre-ignition, harshness of ride and so on, so you have to wonder how standard they were. I hope this gets exhibited in Melbourne. As usual, bloody Adelaide get everything....

They were very different times. Where is this?

Please, please take the Corona. That way we will get to see some more photos of it, plus it would have to win the top award!

Don't take this the wrong way, but I would sure like to meet the wife that wants to drive a car like this! She must be quite a girl!! Can't imagine my wife wanting a car like this, although her second car (in 1986) was a KE20.

Update was from August 1972

So you have had a bit of a look at your brake fluid presumably?

Suzie Q surely!?

Yes it will work as an AM radio in Australia. Yes it is different to my KE15 radio but only the face, from behind it is identical. I'm watching it, why haven't you bought it yet?

Cos I'm super intelligent :P

Nice one Tally. Subscribes! One comment, what engine are you thinking about down the track? I am presuming you will go 4AGE or perhaps 2TG? If so, you might want to think about moving the battery over to the passenger side, if you haven't already, before you get too advanced in your paint work.

I'm all for that, and reckon you're going the right way. I was young and stupid once too, and had a 6 point bolt in cage in my old TA22, with a big weber sticker on the back window. I think if you are going to do some sprints/hillclimbs, then a cage is a good idea. Perhaps have a talk with silverRA23 as he will have an idea of the current requirements for cages in CAMS events.

The International Telecommunication Union set standards for radio broadcast frequencies, and Japan and Australia are both in the same region. Thus both broadcast AM radio in the medium wave frequency. Sometimes if you are driving in the country at night, you can pickup overseas transmissions, due to a quirk of medium wave signal behaviour So it will work. For FM signals, i believe you need some fancy signal convertor doo dad. Not an issue here however.

8000rpm is a maximum. Any cam you choose for a streetable engine will have stopped making power long before then anyway, so no reason to be hitting that. The idea is to keep the revs within the powerband where practical. Compression testing is quick and easy, I would just recheck it now so you know where you are at. As for cages, unless you plan to do some competition in it, I wouldn't go there. Attracts too much attention, everyone wants to drag you, and it becomes a pain in the arse.

I reckon getting onto the rust asap will be a good thing. Try and get your mate to cut and weld it if possible. Bog is always a temporary measure, and only leads to bigger dramas later. Can't help with the struts, I imagine the main issue would be whether they fit on your steering arms? If you need the later bolt spacing steering arm (85mm vs 80mm KE20) to suit the smaller balljoint, let me know and I will see if I can source some for you. I think I know where some are at the moment. With the engine, no need to reinvent the wheel. It's been done many times, and well described in the FAQ's, which I'm sure you have read 100 times. If your bottom end is in good condition (compression and so on), think about putting in a cam and leaving the rest of the bottom end alone. Then spend a little cash on the head and cam. I went that way with a 2T years back and it went like a train. I have a couple of sets of TE27 rear shocks here if you want to trial fit and test. Some KYB 4 way oils, and some TRD gas. If they go well, you could pick some up fairly cheaply on yahoo once you know they fit. i don't think there is a lot of options off the shelf for KE20's.

a) where are you going to get a manifold from, at a price cheaper than a side draft manifold. b) downdraft carbs are never going to be as infinitely tuneable. Side draft carbs are easily tuned specifically to your engine on a dyno, that's where the power gains and driveability are really found

LOL. Dare i say it, possibly i'll have the AE86 on club plates by then.

I wouldn't be too sure about that. May well contain some of the idle ups at the very least. If I was you, I would get it if you can. Pretty sure you will find the two looms bear no relation to each other. Not the same car obviously, but AE86 4AGE vs 4AC are totally different

This sounds real good. Back before the Healesville rally went ARC, they had a stage through the centre of Healesville which was a bit of fun! As navigator in an RX2, all I had to do was hang on and admire the pretty girls as we went past.

I always use a rim with tyre as per Felix, the extra weight of the tyre helps move it. Make sure the car is secure on its stands or whatever, and keep your legs out from under the car in case it falls off.

The second last time I moved a car. Was told early in the week I couldn't book a car trailer at local servo, as we don't do bookings. If you get here early, you'll be right. Get there very early, hitch up trailer, go inside to pay. Sorry you can't have it, has been booked. Find another trailer at another servo in frantic drive around. Pick up car. Nearly destroy my tow car as the trailer weighs about 2 tons, and of course the trailer lights don't work. Terrified I will take out every passing car, pedestrian or tree as trailer is hella wide. Clutch will never be the same. Ended up costing about $120. Then had to take trailer back. Get home to be abused by wife who had to be somewhere. Last time I moved a car. Rang Towie recommended by fellow member. He arrived exactly on time, winched car onto tilt tray. 25 mins later it is sitting exactly where I asked. $80. I wonder which method i will use next time......

Was there for a AH Sprite / Midget weekend probably 25 - 30 years ago and it was already pretty decrepit, road surface poor etc. And yes there was no run off, but incredible atmosphere. I think that was going to be one of the last meetings? Would have been awesome in its heyday http://www.vsccwa.com.au/cms/uploads...ept-Page09.pdf Actually reading this reminded me of the fog. The meeting I was at had a number of holdups as the place was enveloped in fog. The circuit was located in a sort of hollow with Katoomba up on the ridge, and the fog would sweep in and sit in the hollow. It really was quite an amazing place.

From memory 20 valve starters are on the intake side. Search around to confirm that fits. Should be able to find one of them easily enough. A lot easier than a 4AGZE one anyway.

Damn 600Mhz, 1Mb G3 can't handle it. Need to turn on the powermac! Edit: :wink: Nice one Teddy! Won't be able to sleep now.....

Before you get too excited, be aware that the 4AGZE starter mounts on the inlet side, and the 4AGE starter mounts on the exhaust side. They are not interchangeable. If you are after a reduction drive starter for a 4AGE, there are other options available.

We used to put MX32 Cressida arms into TA22's for about 3 degrees neg. You would need to do some measurements to be sure, but realistically you should be able to pick some up cheaply from a wrecker and just try them out. I would guess the balljoint is probably the same but you may want to research that, depending on what Corona you have