parrot

You just need to talk to the specialist distributor place near you. They will set it up for you with an appropriate ignition module. Here in Melbourne you would go to performance ignition. They have been doing it for a long time. http://www.performanceignition.com.au/

I think you will find the supply of RWD 4AGE's dropped right off many years ago. You might want to get on AE86DC and check the importers. Many people these days are running FWD engines with varying degrees of correct water piping, water pump setups, alternator setups. Another option would be to have a look on Yahoo and use a bidding service to get one. It may not end up costing anymore and you would get all the bits.

I noticed Sunday, there is now a very dodgy looking second hand car place next door, Kelly Motors, with some clearly unroadworthy cars. I presume that its Centre Rd selling off the half reasonable ones instead of dotting them around the carpark like they used to.

That red KE70 was absolutely overrated. Hard to believe how some of these cars end up there.

Stocko white KE20 in original condition I think, heading down Victoria St East Melbourne this morning. Was trying so hard to get a good look at it, i went through the red light and stopped just in time!

I haven't seen a Toyota paint code in that format before, but it isn't something I take a huge interest in. Generally they look like this

From memory, pick pay n go and Centre rd were both $30

Wow, that's gorgeous. There is a guy in the US with one that looks like it has done 1000km since new, but I reckon yours is cleaner.

2TG's are getting pretty hard to find and parts are expensive and also hard to find. 4AGE's are easy to find and parts easy to get, especially modified stuff. 20 valve engines are also cheap and go well straight out of the box. I think 2TG's are really only for the more hardcore TA22/TE27 people these days (like me).

With regards to cambertops, this was the response from Emp? on Toymods Originally Posted by parrot Emp? Were those S14 tops a direct bolt in, or did you have to slot the holes at all? they are k-office camber tops, holes slotted about 2mm each outwards... took about 1min total with a round file

As above, I have a set of PBR standard replacement for the KE15 and they are branded Brembo around the edge.

This is the photo he posted up amongst others showing the strut upgrade Looks pretty damn close, not sure how much it affects caster

AE86 struts are a pretty common upgrade in Japan and the US. Gives you a wide range of shock and brake pad options. One of the guys on the KE thread on toymods looks to have used some S14 adjustable tops that seem to bolt in. May need to look into that a bit more to confirm they fit.

Yes. TE27 arms have the same 85mm bolt spacing as AE86 and others. Importantly they also use the same balljoint as a KE2x, so will fit on your existing lower control arm. Plus they are the same length as KE2x. Another option is to source AE86 power steering arms which from memory are only 5mm longer, BUT you need to use a spacer with the balljoint pin as the AE86 pin is larger. T3 do an aftermarket AE86 power steer arm complete with spacer, but they look a bit bling for my liking. EDIT: with AE86 struts the stub axle inclination results in a little more positive camber. Realistically you would need to convert to coilovers so you have enough room within the strut tower to get camber back (plus a bit more) with some adjustable tops.

You can of course buy some TE27 steering arms, either from Japan (usually fairly expensive) or the USA (usually cheap). I have two sets, the last cost me $USD10. There was a guy selling a pair this week for $USD40. Then you can get AE86 RCA's in various heights to suit.

I would certainly retain it. Any pickapart wreckers in your area would have millions of them on probably any aisen carb you find. I should imagine it would be easy to test off the car though. Earth the body of the solenoid and apply power to the lead, or if it is two pin, white/black wire to neg terminal and the other to positive and check it functions. Presumably applying power will pull the pin in, and with power out it will pop off. And check the copper seal isn't damaged when you reinstall it. Would be worthwhile checking the engine timing also, as this can result in run on if incorrect. And welcome :yes:

£250000 As stated? You'll be wanting a few powerballs

Yes it is worth it. However it isn't as simple or cheap to do it properly as people think. If you make it carbed, it is much easier. And remember it will need to be engineered.

What about something from left field. You could always join the armed forces. Learn a trade there.

All of those things, plus check the earth.

Or you could work hard, get good marks, and crossover to the course you really want to do at a later stage. Plus there are heaps of cute girls at Uni, not many at apprentice school!

I left school, worked in a few poorly paying, no future, crappy clerical jobs for a while. Then after about 6 years, bit the bullet and supported myself through Uni. The time will go fast. When you come out of it, you will be on professional graduate wages of whatever it is you do, presuming you choose a reasonable course. I love my job, am always learning, and work in a high demand area. Economic situations have no effect on my work and I would have no trouble moving if I wanted to. It is fair to say I am now reasonably well off, work 4 days a week, and when I get the chance (kids), I can play with one of my three hobby cars. Decisions you make now, will largely dictate where you are in 10 - 20 years time. BUT, it is never too late to make the change. A 42 year old friend, has just finished her first year out in a completely new career after going back to Uni in her late 30's. Yes I sound like your Dad, but that's how it is.

I recall that actually, and was interested then. I would still be keen, and am in no rush. Anyone else seriously interested if Greenmac80 can find the time for us?

now we just have to work out how to get a hold of your little bicycle race......he he. True, but I know what I prefer to watch. Haven't watched a single race since the demise of Group A. I agree with Coln72. The things they race today bear no relationship to a Holden or Ford in the showroom, and hardly anything to Holden or Ford at all. It's just looks like one, sort of. Technology has moved well and truly along, as has safety, but the racing hasn't improved any. Nowadays you will only see me attending a historic's meeting.

How did they fit up? I would be seriously interested in 2 cars worth. Had you thought about arranging a group buy?