popandwar

Ok so I bought a new cap, rotor arm and plugs. I eliminated the leads by swapping them over from what was sparking and there was still no spark. The replaced dizzy worked fine until the acc cable problem. Timing was done (with a timing light) The timing now isn't constant it will be on one spot for a second a jolt to another then back for a bit. (If that helps) The dizzy is clamped down as tight as I can get it so it's not moving in that sense. I have a replacement condenser that I'll install tomorrow and ill double check the points connection as well tomorrow. Thanks for all the replies, will keep you updated. And yeah when it's running rough at idle I'll pull first and second out and nothing will change but will want to stall if I pull out third or fourth leads.

And there isn't any play in the actual shaft/sleeve where the dizzy meets the engine I'm just putting pressure on the cap

Yeah pushing on the cap not twisting it. As if the dizzy is on a very slight angle. But I know that's not the case and I'm right in thinking that the distributor retaining bracket is the only thing holding it in place? I tried loosening the bracket pushing it to where it sounded right and tightening it but it didn't work. I've tried two different caps and still no luck.

Hey, The problem is my distributor isn't sparking on first or second unless I push it towards the firewall. It's not the plugs or leads and it has a new cap, points an rotor arm. I replaced the distributor not a week ago (it was having the same problem only the old dizzy had heaps of play in the rotor arm cam) The recently installed one had the car running really nice until one day I had the revs high as I was climbing a hill and something relating to the carby/accelerator cable came loose and the revs skyrocketed. I undid the acc cable guide thing and put it back onto the spring mechanism and tightened it up, the revs had now dropped and the car was running really rough at idle. It was then I realized using the screwdriver method that first and second weren't sparking. It will run well under a bit of load but only occasionally and if I push the dizzy towards the firewall then you can hear it idling better implying that its sparking. So what is the problem? Did I somehow ruin the new(er) dizzy when the cable guide went or are the gears that power the dizzy perhaps worn somehow? Any help would be greatly appreciated. It's such a weird problem and its doing my head in.

Alright haha, might be time for an upgrade. The car runs fine, high idle but hasn't had a cough since I took this photo. Ill give it a clean and Suss out a new cap. As for the sideways play, ill check that out too. Thanks for all your help mate. Is carby cleaner flammable? Would this be a problem as a cleaning solution, seeing as the dizzy produces a spark?

any idea what the black thing is in the pic? it was under the condenser, it was essentially just floating around in there i think...one end (end you can see in pic) has a specific extrusion on it while the other appears to have a rougher surface giving the impression its snapped off of something

Excellent thanks mate, always a great help! :thumbsup:

This is a photo of my distributor with the breaker points and that little silver cylinder who's title eludes me at this point... Now I know that they're meant to be oiled or greased but this guy is gritty. •how do I clean it? (Just unbolt it all and warm soapy water, good dry and replace in reverse sequence?) •what do I use for oil/lube (wd40?) •would this be a leading contributor to breaker points continuously needing to be reset? (Like every 3 months or so?) And •I found a little black plastic looking thing under the silver cylinder I unplugged and in bolted, ill uploa a pic in the next post. Thanks for any help guys, if it helps you help me I did search YouTube for some video tips on cleaning distributors and I got as far as a guy showing me how to take the breaker points out and how advance works. (Very interesting, but not too much help)

Just packed everything up...spigot went in, test drove it, no shudder from the box but still wanting to konk out. reset the points...hey presto :lovin: all good. haha Thank you all for your help!

yeah i thought the box went on a little too easy the first time. I also read somewhere the car should run relatively fine for a while before the input shaft begins to start spinning out of alignment and causing trouble so perhaps I'm looking at two or more issues. after the bearing is in tomorrow i"ll see how it goes, could well be a carbie problem. It seems to want to konk out and i have to rev it a bit to keep it alive... I've blown a head before and it seems kind of like that but it didn't shake and splutter sooo i dunno haha. somethings wrong. thank you all for your help so far.

Yep, called my mate and he said "I knew we would forget something". Tomorrow morning the box is coming back off and spigot put in. I just hope it's not too late. It had a slight shudder yesterday on its first big drive and last night was horrible. So I'm hoping the clutch and box are still all good. I'm guessing that once the box comes off and there is metal shavings or bits of clutch or something I've screwed it, but if not should everything be ok? Should I remove the plate from the bottom of the box and check teeth? Thanks for your help guys!

so I'm not sure if it's fixed yet. I went out and disconnected and reconnected the wire Banjo mentioned It seems to be idling a bit stronger now...I have to shoot to work now. That'll be the test drive. Thanks for the help so far!

yeah it seems to run fine when accelerating slowly...it starts fine giving me the impression the points are fine for now, spark plugs are clean too. forgive me for this next response...it's my mate who is the more mechanically gifted and i don't know what a spigot bearing is :hammer: . i remember replacing the thrust bearing..haha. would upgrading to electric dizzy be a smart decision then?

Yeah we did, and the engine was on a hell of a tilt haha. I'll go suss it now... thank you for the reply :)

Will do, Thanks heaps for the speedy replys :)

I've adjusted it a little but if i give it any slack the pedal is really soft, so I've kept it at what i think is the right tension... you're right though and considering my points issues in the past I'm counting on something totally unrelated and ridiculous to be wrong haha. if it helps I set the points myself and didn't reset the timing...

So two days ago a mate and I did an auto to 5 speed manual conversion on my 82 ke70... it all went fine, used a new clutch, aligned it with a alignment tool, box fit straight in, everything bolted up nicely. was a really easy swap. too good to be true, so today i was driving along and i gave it a bit of a rev in 2nd, it started to shake and splutter, almost like bunny hopping...i shifted to 3rd and it kept doing it under revs. i took my foot off and put it back on and it was fine... it was then fine for the rest of the drive to work...after work it was really bad. spluttering and like cutting out, a bit of backfire and bunnyhopping. this was mainly in 1st (taking off) and 2nd. 3rd was ok... all the gears shift fine. now i've had issues with my points in the past similar symptoms...nothing this bad though. it's also inconsistent... iv'e searched on here, car diagnosis sites. so far I've seen "replace spark plugs". but if it was missing it would have done it before the conversion... thank you to anyone with any advice :)

PM'd

WMMH: rocking up at the insurance company's garage to have my car assessed to gain authority to have damage fixed. Assessor walks out, tall, grumpy looking, grey haired man, no smile, grizzly voice. He asks which car is mine and point to the 70 he turns around and says "good ol ke70s" We spend the duration of the assessment discussing the many pros of early model corollas. then I got a gobbie from my girlfriend. That made me happy

I just realised I've made a little mistake, when I asked about an accelerator cable I meant speedo cable, so my question is do I need a manual speedo cable? Also I have read that excellent write up and a lot of the other articles on here about auto to manual conversions. What I don't have is a diff from a manual, will a 5 speed tail shaft go into An auto diff?

Well I think that's what I'm asking, how do I tell? What has a manual cable got that an auto cable hasn't etc

Hey, Over the past month or two I've slowly sourced parts for a manual conversion for my 82 Ke70. Today i paid for what i believe to be the last parts i need, I'll list them here and if anyone could correct it/add to it, it would be great. -5 speed to suit 4k -19 spline clutch -Flywheel from gear box that was attached to a 4k -Tailshaft to suit 4k 5 speed -Clutch cable -Ke70 manual pedal box -Gear box crossmember -Bolts to suit all above -Springs " " -E clips " " I haven't got another accelerator cable for it, should I have? Also, are there any seals/gaskets that i should replace/check before putting it all together? Thanks for any help guys.

Yesterday I spent a good two hours taking the black rubber strips off of the sides of my 70. After getting all the panels nice and clean, today I go and pick my girl up and on the way home, I get reversed into. Now I have to go through all the insurance jibber jabber, I wished she had have reversed into a panel that wasn't perfect.

Replaced the original am/fm radio with a Sony head unit, installed some 6x9's in the parcel shelf and "under carpet" wired them up. Also reset the points and hoping it'll drive a bit smoother tonight. And I plan to service it Wednesday.