Fu-Leng

I don't believe I have a vacuum leak. I have a vacuum gauge connected to the intake, and it is stable while I have the choke closed, so no leak. I think the problem is really the idle screw, that I think it was fully pull out, so when I released the choke after a few seconds it would slow down the engine slowly until it dies. But because I did not remember that screw when I was with the car I did not try to check it. will do it maybe still today. Now I need to but back the seats, put the breaking fluid on and try it out on the field - until now the car did not left the garage :)

Thanks everyone I tried putting: mains 120/120 air 170/170 idle 50/55 Then engine would not even start. weird. Then I opened the carb again. Changed back to default but same thing, it did not start. So I changed again, this time to: mains 120/140 air 170/165 idle 50/55 Hoping that engine started but nothing. this kept me thinking if I had spark, so I checked distributor and on TDC put it on the correct position (with cap outiside i checked when it sparked while rotating the distributor and put it just before spark). Then I checked the plugs, and they where black as night, lol. This might be the problem, too rich on the carb, so I cleaned the spark plugs, put them back, leaned a bit the mixture and rotated the key. The engine started finally, and it kept around 2k rpm with choke closed. If I closed the choke it died after a few seconds. Because I did not have more time to be around the car yesterday I left it like that but now, I know why it died after the choke open - the idle speed screw was not correctly, so that will be the first ting I'll try when I get back to it. I read about someplace that these webers like a lot of advance, how much is "a lot"? just a few degrees on the timing? I'll try next time.

Hi all I put a Weber 32 DGR on my 4K. This weber is just like a DVG, with manual choke. The jets it has: main:120/105 idle:50/55 air corr: 170/135 When I try to start engine it revs high and dies, even with choke full closed. Maybe I should change jets? Does anyone knows the correct jets for a stock 4K? Just to add the this weber came from a Suzuki Vitara. BR José Martins

Just to add that my Weber DGR doesn't have a return fuel line (neither the previous KE35 carbs). I'll try them. First need to clean them up while theya re not mounted, and I need do make new gaskets for intake and the carb base. Thanks for everything.

Hi Thanks for the help. I'll keep the mechanical pump. My old carbs were leaking from the throtle pump. Even after changing gaskets and rubbers they were leaking. And they were a pain in the ass to sync correctly. But I'll keep them in storage anyway.

Hi After rebuilding my twin carbs and still they were leaking fuel, I'm changing them for a single Weber downdraft. I bought a intake manifold from a 4K starlet, but I'll still use my exaust manifold (4-2-1 manifold from the KE35) I have a Weber 32 DGR (aparently like DGV, with manual choke). This one was mounted on a Suzuki, and luckily I bought it already with the suzuki adaptor plate (it's the same for K engine, I already tried it and if fits perfectly). Now, anyone here knows what is the fuel pressure from the 4K pumps? Can I use the stock pump with the weber or do I need a regulator (or new pump and regulator)? I'm afraid that the 4K mechanical fuel pump might have too much pressure and could leave the carb leaking. Anyone can help on this? BR

Thanks I'll try to do a version of the blog in English, so that everyone can understand what I wrote there :)

Hi all. The problem is that I live in Portugal, and here it's very dificult to get a new one for the model. But I managed to a new one for starlet KP61 model, it's a little bit larger but it will fit, and just for 90€. Not bad :)

Hi all. My radiator is dead, lower hose tube is rotten and core has holes on it, so I need to replace it. The problem is that I can't find any Ke radiator sellting in Portugal, so I'll need to adapt. If I order some company to make a new one it will be around 250€, that's why I want to try to find one that easy fits there. Anyone knows of some replacement radiators that can fit (or easily adapt) on the Corolla KE35 (using K engine)? I already heard about the Honda Civic one, but the lower radiator tube on the civic is on the right side, and not on the left like the KE engine. Any help is good. Thanks in advance.

Hi all I bought 2 rebuild kits for the carbs. They were identified as kits for the KE10 carb, but I believe most of the parts are exactly the same so I bouth them (as they were cheap - less than 30€ for both, including delivery). So I started the dismantling and because I don't have carb cleaner I used thinner instead (after removing all the gaskets). I didn't found Carb cleaner in Portugal, what we have here is only the sprays, not the stuff to let the carb taking a "bath" :) So, after using thinner, I cleanned everything with gasoline, and mount it again, using the new parts and gaskets. These kits do some miracles, after mounting them on the intake manifold, I tried to start the engine, and after some seconds (they didn't have any gas on them) they started and kept idling :). I notice that the "power piston" (at least I think that it's name, the "nail" on top and middle on fthe carb - between the mouths) was stuck on both carbs, and the mixture screws were damaged - overtight. Now I think it's good, and I'll post a video the next time I go to the garage.

It was not on firing correctly. I turned the dizzy clockwise about 10deg and it sounded better (it looks like it revs higher now, at least by the sound), but it still dies if I take the choke off, so I guess is still too rich probably (I was using about 2 1/2 turns on the mixture screws). I'll have to rebuild the carbs because they are leaking, and also my radiator is leaking - need to get my hands on a good one. Thanks for everything guys.

Hi. When I put the distributor, it only entered on a position that was not supposed to (after I put the timing mark on 8 degrees). Then I rotated the dizzy until have a spark, and rotate it back a little. I'll try to rotate it a little bit to left and right while it's working to see if I can notice some changes. When you're asking about the points gap, you're talking about the gap that's created while the dizzy rotor spins? It should be around 1mm, right? And another thing. On the video I don't have a muffler, only the collectors straight to the end :) Probably it's too rich, you might be right - I was using 2 full turns on the mixture screws. No valve adjustment yet. I'll do that when I have more time for that. First I need to start putting all together again, because the car was stripped down for repairing and painting. BR José Martins

Hi all. Last friday I could start it again. I opened the mixture screws 2 full turns each and closed the choke and it started and kept idling. Check the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c47QsJSwNv4 But I noticed that it's leaking fuel while idling. I thinks it might be the sealants that are old, so I ordered 2 repair kits. Now I'll have to wait for the parts to fix the carbs. In the meanwhile I'll start putting everything together inside the car. I need to mount the dash, check electrical stuff, etc. I also need to get my hands on the right door inside panel (or I'll have to fabricate one).

Problems again. 2 days ago I could keep the engine running for about a minute, but yesterday I had problems trying to idle it correctly. Maybe it worked the day before because it was already warmed up. It could be more air that he can take and chockes (I'm trying this without the carb aircleaner). Anyone knows the initial mixture and throtle screws for trying to tune the dual 3K-B carbs? Maybe I start from there and if it works start trying to tune it a little bit. Another thing. Anyone here connects the crank case hose to the intake manifold? Or you use catch can or air breather? BR

Well, the carbs kept working yesterday, no need to pull the throttle to keep them alive. The PCV valve might be jammed. I'll try to "blow" the valve to check if it's good - it should only let the air pass from the crank case out, and not in, right? My distributor is from the 3K-B, it has a vacuum advance - it's the vacuum tube that goes to the first carb, right?