coln72

Car: KE20 Modified/Unmodified: lowered, modified crossmember and strut tops Rim Size: 13 x 5.5 Rim Offset: ??? RX7 alloys Stud/Bolt Pattern: 4 x 110 Tyre Size/Profile: front/rear 185/65 or rear 205/60 Fitment Note: front cleared the struts just but fitted the guard well. Rear had heaps of clearance with the 185's but the 205's filled the guards nicely. Rear guards were lipped.

Car: 1975 ke35 Modified/Unmodified: lowered lots Rim Size: 13 x 6 Rim Offset: ??? never looked rwd offset though Stud/Bolt Pattern: 4 x 114.3 Tyre Size/Profile: front 185/65, rear 225/60 Fitment Note: fronts fitted perfectly under guards - sidwall just bulged outside of guard when viewed from top. rear needed to be lipped to clear. heaps of inner clearence.

Don't think '20s run a charcoal canister. Know my '35 didn't

my old man shoved a rag under the chrome cover thing to stop the fuel running down the side of the car........ Think an early valiant cap will fit or you can try to ben the tags on your cap to make it a tighter fit.

Two Maltese Shitzu called Cassie & Keely And a Japanese Chin called Kira Sounds like Ive got the wimpiest dogs on Rollaclub :laff:

cable ties make them captive :doh: Yes they are illegal but they wont make your car spear off the road if you are sensible and take appropriate precautions. In my experience, they wont bottom out, collapse or do anything nasty. I think my ke35 ended up having 2.5 coils cut out in the end and it wasn't too bad (we didnt actually have to take the coils out of the struts when we cut for the final time :laff: ) but I was running decent strut inserts. Actually I think it was too low at 2.5 coils. It handled a lot better with 1.5 coils cut.

Cut springs are illegal. Saying that I ran cut springs for close to 10 years without issues. If you use a hacksaw you shouldn't do any damage to the heat treatment of the spring.

4k's are boat anchors :) go a 5k with similar mods. My 5k'd KE20 crapped all over a 4age KE35 when autocrossing.

try some of your local carriers not the national ones like TNT etc ifyou are having account troubles. They would be more than happy to take deliver your motor. Basically let your fingers do the walking.

If I remember correctly, Super Jamie, had a thread on this on the "oldcorollas" forum.....

Facet or what ever they call themselves nowdays will work a treat. Wouldn't use a Holley unless you like sucking fuel through the hose to prime it all the time :)

easier just to take the drain plugs out of the floor :)

Find a mate with a press and straighted the main leaf like I did.

never had any issues finding bits for 5k's. REPCO used to stock the stuff.

Keep forgetting that an hour or so is a long way for you big city types.......... :yes: Just kidding. Thought I'd throw in a sponsor to get some business for him.

Ditto - then drop in a 5k or a 7k, heaps easier and cheaper. $100 to $500 for a 5k depending on the deal you get.

If you are up for a tow, call Phil at PA Paints in Ballarat. He has done all my cars. My 20 was done in two days (2 pac) and was over 5 years old when you saw it. If you have the time (and cash) give him a call on 53 396163. PS. I can understand why the painters didn't want to touch the car if they didn't do the repairs after seeing an FJ ute that had been "repaired" by someone. Both sills fitted into a shoebox.......... and it isn't the guy who repaired it who gets his reputation f#$ked.

oops should of read all the posts. Didn't think you could get a Festy up to that speed.......... The wifes sounded pretty scary at 140km/h and it was the big block :y:

Based on the damage the missus did to hers (approx $4000) at 25 odd km/h Id say about 80 to 90...

All connects up - may not be accurate though. Personally I'd go for the KE70 box because I felt that the shifter was in a better position when compared to the KE55 box.

I'd go for the 205's. Used to run 225's on a 6" rim and the gerneral view was that it looked tough (but I'm old school).

Your 35 looks identical to my old one, right down to the rims. Only difference is the black bonnet :y: Sorry to hijack the thread

Had this issue with a facet after my Ke20 sat for a while without being used with an empty tank. It wouldn't pull the fuel from the tank after I refilled it. This pump had worked fine for years before hand so it wasn't the pump or the set up. Even though it was self priming, it didn't have enough grunt to pull the fuel from the bottom of the tank up through the top and back down to the pump while the pipe was full of air. I had to get underneath where my pump was, disconnect the inlet hose and suck fuel manually until it started flowing (tastes like crap). Quickly hooked the pump back up and she was sweet. Reckon if you suck the fuel from your tank so you get rid of all of the air first she'll be sweet.

Thats the same colour that mine was - saves me finding a pic of mine :)

A mate had GT replica and it was a prick to get the extractor bolts. Eventually special bolts were fitted that had a smaller head on them (eg. 10mm bolt but with a 8mm head) to make it easier to get a spanner on them. Personally, I went with the studs on my Rollas. Just don't make them too long as you will struggle to get the manifold off the studs before it hits the inner guard.