coln72

Try "Wheels" in Ballarat. They have been selling 2nd hand wheels and stuff for more years I can remember.

Always used "Facet" or what ever they are called now. Small, light and easy to mount but mega noisy. Never ran a regulator and never had an issue in over 10 years. Used to hear the pump slow down once the system was pressurised. Tried a Holley Red pump once and removeded it pretty quick as it wouldnt suck fuel through if there was any sort of air in the system. The car would stop and I would have to reprime the system. Always removed the mechanical pump and fitted a plate over the hole in the block.

If you have a Jap diff, you will need Jap axels to match. Just remember to shorten them by a few mm's first. A diff will only last so long if its abused. A mate lunched a 9" in his Falcon while my uncle has an Opel 4 speed (dodgey early Holden gearbox) that has outlasted 3 modified 202's.

Actually, the electric fule pumps I was using were that simple to fit. Mount, hook up one wire to an ingnition on supply and the other to earth. Put the fule line from the tank into the in side and the one that goes to the engine on the out side on the pump. If you really want to be tricky you could wire in a switch into the power supply and hide it somewhere so the pump doesnt operate when its switched off. Or have it hooked up to the oil pressure switch so if you are in a big accident, the pump will stop once the oli pressure drops. Handy if the ignition is still on (pump still pumping) and a fuel hose is split - or so CAMS says.....

Just remember what speed you speedo reads when you are actually doing 60, 80 & 100. Mine did the same thing when I changed the diff from a 4.3 jap to a 4.1 borgy. 100km/h was actually reading 120km/h on the speedo. Just left it as it was.

gave one away that just had a broken tail light. That was before I found out how few there are :D

Seen on an EVO at an ARC round a few years ago.

Guess you could drill out the jets if you are really careful but.........

Wont have any problems

On a furniture van today MOVINU A few years ago in Canberra there were a couple of Mazdas running YES20B & YAP00F

Most in my experience wont know what to look for on a Rolla. Had an early KE35 which over the years had what pollution gear was there, firstly partly removed with some hoses glued in place (after a motor change) and then removed all together. Shouldn't have any issues with tuning if it is done correctly.

Its a shit starter. Had a 3k starter on a 5k for over three years and it gave no poblems. If you have access to a 5k starter go for it. It will possibly be a gear reduction starter and you will get more clearance around your exhaust if it is as they are physically smaller.

I had a sound that occured when cornering. Turned out that a fuel cap had shit itself and half of it was in the tank.

A 3k starter will work on a 5k.

Normally you need approx 2/3 of the original suspension travel to be legal.

A couple more local plates SPNMUP - (spin them up) on a typical bogan spec VS BOWTYE - on a really nice chev coupe

Have found that some ke20 seats have two sets of mounting holes so they can be moved back on the runners. I'm just under 6' and weigh 90 odd kg and I fitted inside even with my helmut on.

NINEXI (911 Porche) a couple of local ones VY2DY4 (mates VY ute) GETNLO (Lolux, oops Hilux) OLDSKL (KE30) ROORL (BnS Ute) TUNNAFUN (HQ 1 tonner - SA plates. Now has something else)

Its big enough to party in and with 184kw it will be :D thats about 30 more than the Commodoore.

macca - the youngun looks like he/she is having fun :D

May have to take the kiddies for a drive. Should have the new family bus by then too - hangs head in shame for getting a Kia grand Carnival :D

may be the valve that shuts the flow of water to the core when you don't want the heater on. From memory its not part of the heater core but attatched to one of the hoses under the dash.

When I did it we drilled out the spot welds in the standard rims and knocked out the centres. Then I found a Pair of 13" Holden chromies which had the centres "seam" welded in not spot welded. Grind the welds and knock out centres. Matched up the Rolla centres with the Holden rims and tacked into place. Mounted on to car and spun them to check for any wobbles. Once ok, got a mate who is a boiler maker to weld them. Ran them for a couple of years with no issues. Even smacked into a bank with enough force to punch a log into the boot without damaging the rim.

Used to happen to me in the middle of summer in 30+ degree days. Temperature didn't effect it but humidity sorta did. Warning SCIENCE content. I think it was caused by the velocity of the air increasing in the venturi. This altered the presure and the temperature of the air. Get the air cold enough and wet enough and you get ice building up in the venturi's. Does yours come in gradually or is it sudden?? If its sudden then forget what I said. By the way Rob, you forget what it was like don't you :cool:

I was going to say the opposite. I think that the carby is icing up when you are under constant throttle and is choking itself of air. When you stop it melts the ice and the problem disappears. When it does it, fell the carby to see if it feels cold. My old ke35 used to do this on the freeway (3kb'd 5k). It would start to miss and carry on and if I kept driving it would get to a stage where it wouldn't run under 4000rpm. Would be driving along the freeway in third revving the shit out of it. Weather didn't have to be cold for it to do it either, used to happen in the middle of summer. Fixed it by fitting an air hose that picked up from near the extractors. If I knew I was going on a long drive at constant speed I would also add a small amount of octane booster as well.