coln72

used to be able to buy "new" km/h faces at parts shops years ago. Could be one of them.

Anything up to $300-400 depending on condition and how complete the set up is. Or you could get lucky and pay $25 for a complete set up like I did :D or pick up a manifold for nothing and build it up from there.

If you dump it 3" its gonna handle worse. When I had my '35, I lowered it in stages and once I went past a certain point (lower suspension arms horizontal) it went slower.

How about an action shot for the KE20 page (have higher res version available)

I think Toyota had one back in the day as a promotional/magazine testing car.

If it is the same as the one I had it will bolt in and the plugs are the same.......BUT...... you will need to swap a couple of wires around to make it work. looky here to see how

Get a cooking thermometer and stick it in the radiator to actually see the water temp is. Is the thermostat actually opening???

Find something with more grunt that the "iron lion". Hell my Kia's V6 has more power than the VL Group A.

fill it with water......:wink: seriously, have you bled the air out of the system.

My KE35 used to do this a bit as the self adjusters didn't work. As the shoes wore the pedal would drop until it would go to the floor, but would "pump up" to the proper level with repeated brake applications. This was great for scaring the shit out of passengers :) Just had to get under the car to adjust up the rear brakes to fix it.

This is what happened to my human powered vehicle on its first flying lap of qualifying :P Didn't do the official much good.

Were chasing a big flat spot, so from memory we wanted it to pump earlier so we stuffed around with the linkages a bit and fitted a stiffer or longer spring (can't remember though) where the linkage hooks up to the lever that pushes down on the pump.

Can be done by bending the linkages and playing with the spring tension.

Red has never been cool, weird yes, cool no :)

You may be lucky cause when I fitted my KE20 tacho dash, all that had to be done was to swap a couple of wires around in the wiring loom plug to get it to work.

very sure. 2 condoms type of sure......

Fitted sway bars front and rear to my 20 and ended up taking them back off. Rear was too stiff and I would be looking out of the drivers window in third gear under acceleration out of some of the corners on the local clubs track. Another option would be Selby's as that was the brand of the ones i removed.

Look guys, just accept that Vagen can not get easy access to a 4/5k and help him with what he is trying to do, which is squeezing cheap power from a 3k.

Throw it in a container and ship it to me :)

Nice but has the odd rough edge to it. The wiper motor etc looks shit on the firewall. Appears not to have been preped properly before painting, in one photo the guages appear crooked and the paneling in the boot doesnt appear to fit. All said not a bad job though, just not perfect.

Obviously the cops are dumb in QLD :dance: mmmmm... I've probably pulled a few more laps cruising than most of you young wippersnappers. The favorite trick of the local cops was to block of the exits of the local hangout - a car park in the center of town - and to roadworthy every car that was in the car park before it was let out. I'm not saying you wont get away with it once or twice but eventually you will meet an old school copper that knows about older engines and if you piss him or her off then you will be in trouble. I never said not to remove or block the pollution gear, I just said to be sneaky about it. I used to run a 5k with the pollution hoses basically there, but they were just super glued to the motor roughly close to where they should have been. Did the same thing to a Holden six to get it through a RWC. Some of the connector/plugs were missing so we just glued the hoses to the thermostat housing :bash:

Agreed, but the first thing the old man would do when a Holden 6 came in to be tuned was to throw away the Holley and put the twin barrel Stromie on it. Instant improvement in drivability, economy and usually performance.

did you try to hook it directly to the battery with a couple of wires? Nothing changing after being disconnected means that it is not working and from memory they need power to the solenoid for the engine to idle properly.

If you can, look for the Toyota Engine Manual. Its a factory book and it lists all of the figures that you need. It also concentrates on the engine only, and a lot of the information is backed up by step by step pictures. It usually has a bright orange cover - unless its faded to yellow like mine has. May not feature the 1k though :dance: Don't know any machinists in Melbourne, but I would recommend M&W engine services in Ballarat. Did a great job on my 5k a few years ago.