coln72

Actually, strip it back to bare metal it and then clear coat it - save some weight :jamie:

The big sequeny(?) you see on speed boats ftw.

2.6l Sigma and slap a dirty big turbo on it. Should go well in a light rolla. Was one of the fastest cars I have been in, in a fat arse Sigma.

KE35's love bright colours. Would of liked to see bright red there but orange will do.

I don't recommend it but cut down HZ Kingswood springs will fit a KE20. VERY STIFF. Probably doesnt help with a KE70.

Thinking all these young whipper snappers can't remember my rolla - its been a fair while since it went to the great race track in the sky.

Some parents don't give a shit. Camping in the bush with some school kids one night and another student rocks up in a car. Unregisted, no license, no L plates displayed, probably drinking and mum sucking on a can in the passenger seat.........

If you are going to change oil in your struts, talk to a motorcycle shop that plays with race bikes. They should have some idea of what can be used and what can't. And yes, don't use old engine oil. It ate through the seals in one day :P

might as well take mine off the list.

from memory, there is only a spring clip holding the fork on.

I know that 225/60/13's will go under a rear of a ke35 with a slight lip.

Basically an easy conversion and has been covered more than once.

There are specific throw out forks and thrust bearings to suit either position pivot. Mix them up and you get what you have. Found that out the hard way as well.

thought I'd throw up a better picture seeing I'm on the list.

That was my thinking. No torque at usable revs for the street. Unless you could find some serious diff gears or could stump up for a custom gear set you wouldn't bother.

Back to the original question. Read an article years ago in Fast Fours (before it turned shit) about an Appendix J Mini that used this approach to gain more power. They were limited to the capacity they could run so they decided to build a big revving motor. Think it worked ok as long as it was a "power" circuit.

wouldnt doubt that the 4k would rev like that. My 5k was unbalanced, and would pull 8000+rpm with ease. Again this was with two different tachos.

You will have to do with an old photo of my old KE20 as it has gone to Rolla heaven :y: It should be pulled off the list as it doesnt fit the selection criteria of being available to shoot. Maybe have a gone but not forgotten month.

Had issues with after market leads on my first 5k. Replaced them with factory leads and misfire disappeared.

Wish I still had my KE20 and I could show you how easily a standard handbrake, set up properly, will lock up the rears without yanking it up hard. Suppose it all comes down to driving style and car set up as to how easy it is to get a car to slide. I found it easy to do without resorting to a hydrolic handbrake.

Motorkhana'd for years (REDWRF still lived in gods country when I started) and never replaced handbrake cables and I was competing a couple of times a month. Had to occasionally adjust the rear brakes but that was no biggy -couple of minutes with a screw driver. Hopefully you will be giving it a once over a couple of times a year anyway so you should have the wheels off it. Used to unscrew the handbrake button and throw it in the glovebox for an event and refit it before hitting the trailer.

If you can't lock the rears and spin a Corolla with the standard handbrake, you aint trying hard enough. Put your $220 into something you do need.

Nah, the flux capacitor is starting to charge - don't drive over 88mph and you will be right..............:P

Where do I start. Cable tying the front springs in to stop them falling out. Draining the oil out of the front struts and refilling with a thicker oil - old sump oil that is Fitting cut down V8 Kingswood springs to my Ke20 without changing the struts. Would bounce like a pogo stick Leaving bellhousing bolts out because I couldn't be shagged doing them up.......

^^^^^^^ Thats what I've always done.