coln72

Read the CAMS manual re. roll cage design. It specifies the minimum size of material to use and what material to make a roll cage from. Exhaust tube will not be acceptable. Also make sure you build the cage to suit the regulations of the class you want to compete in as in some cases running the cage into the boot area and engine bay is banned.

SHIT, SHIT, SHIT Missed it!!!!!!! Damn kids and their swimming lessons. Think the Carnival would of been out of place though :)

or you could do a poor mans carby clean. Swap the two middle plug leads around, hold your foot flat and turn the engine over. If there is any crap in the carby the backfiring should move it :) By the way, take your aircleaner off as it may catch fire........

I thought the same..... Dunno, always been a fan of the standard KE35 lights

Love to help you but that was close to 18 years ago.......... To many beverages consumed since then :) Think the stiffer spring made the plunger move earlier. Same with making the spring longer, but wiser people will correct me if I am wrong.

Dialed this out by playing with the accelerator pump linkage and spring length/stiffness.

Thats why I used old sump oil :wink:

Think they are called parallel shank nuts. You will need washers to go with them as well. Don't know what size you need but any decent wheel shop should be able to source them for you. Got mine from a second hand wheel place in Ballarat Vic, but I guess that is a little out of the way.....

Have run a rear bar in the past on a '35 and wasn't that impressed. Would lift the inside rear and would single spin to a stop on tight corners.

Havn't gotta a dodgy brake booster have you.

Think the theory with Nitrogen is that it does not expand at the same rate atmospheric air, leading to more constant tyre pressures. Guess this is a good thing if your truck is doing millions of k's.

local trucking company swears by it though...... Reckon the benefits in increased k's from the tyres is worth the expense.

My KE20. Went to the great race track in the sky after the guy I sold it to stripped it for the motor and dash :jamie: Also my first car, a KE35, that went through a number of hands after I sold it. None of them cared for the old girl. Saw it advertised a number of years later, went to look at it thinking a cheap car to drive around and use in a bit of motorsport on the weekends. Worst thing I ever did. Poor old thing was trashed. Hoodlining pulled out, exhaust ripped off at the muffler so they could keep the exhaust tip, panels all beat up and the paint (custom red with pearl) looking shit. Took it for one last drive and I was almost crying. The guy selling it then started to tell us all about what he had done to the motor. Only issue is that it was exactly the same as when the old man and me built it............

Ran premium in my club car (cammed, carbed 5k) once and you could actually hear when the premium got sucked through. The revs dropped and it nearly stalled on the start line. Usually ran 91 and it ran fine. There was actually no difference on the stopwatch between the two fuels.

Old man repaired firetrucks for a living so I used to be able to "acquire" stuff........ Ballarat had some of the only firetrucks running extractors and 4" dump pipes out each side :dance:

Its not hard. All you need is an oxy and some pipe. Made on of my KE20 exhausts using sections of truck exhaust picked up for nothing, an oxy and some of mums wire coat hangers to use as filler wire. Cheated though, went under the diff instead of over it :P Think it sounded better than the shop built system we replaced it with.

Ex missus had a set fitted to her KE20. Bolted up to the factory mounts.

What ever happened to the good old days where we would bolt them on to see if they fit. Seeing you already have the wheels etc :P PS. 225/60/13 will go under a KE35 with the lips rolled (using a rubber mallet). don't know the offset but they were on a 6 inch rim and had a little room to spare on the inside.

And have a really strong leg. When I was competing, I had to run two return springs on each carby. Four springs makes for a hard accelerator pedal......... I suggest that you disconnect the cable from the carby to see if your problem is with the cable or if it is the actual carby itself. If it is the cable and you can slide the inner out (can't remember off the top of my head if you can do that), spray some silicon spray all over it as dirt and shit wont stick to it like it will to CRC etc.

Try Albion(?) Offroad Gear in Ballarat Vic. They used to make custom gearsets.

With a Jap diff there are 4.5, 4.3, 4.2, 4.1 diffs available and on dirt I think I broke two locked diffs in 6 or 7 years of competition. This was behind a cammed and carbed 5k. If you have not already done so- Thinner oil in the engine, gearbox and diff will help reduce friction. Used to run a mix of gearbox oil and auto trans fluid in my gearbox. Break out the alloy and remake various brackets etc. Remove every wire that is not necessary for the car to work. Scrape all of the sound deadener off. Drill various bits and pieces and removed bits that you don't need/allowed to/can get past the scruitineers. In an extreem case, a KE25 was reduced to approx 650kg by doing the above and a few other things :dance:

5k springs are stronger so I have been told. You need to ask the question "Do you really need twin springs????" The more spring pressure you have, means the more power it takes to compress them, so the less power you have to play with. 5k springs will handle 8000 rpm no problems.

I always used a double axle trailer. Saved me once when I blew a tyre. Didn't know about it until I looked at the trailer the next day and saw that the only thing left was the bead. Tossed the light truck tyres that were on it as 1. it used to be a bit unstable on the road 2. it was way to high and I used to rip the exhaust of the Rolla :y: A swap to a set of deep dish 13 x 8 mags and a decent set of tyres solved both issues :dance: A set of "go jacks" like the old man just got will make one easy to move as well

more accurate is to rev her till she blows. Rebuild and never go that high again :thumbsup: Seriously 6000ish is all you would want on a stock motor. I'm sure it will rev higher, but all you will be doing is making noise.

I used to send mine off the tacho with hydrolic lifters easily. This means that I was pulling over 8000 rpm when I was competing. These are a couple of videos of my 5k in action.