coln72

If its a stocker KE55, I wouldn't worry about tyres being crap in the wet - you aint got that much power :) Seriously, should be able to get some half decent tyres for $100 a throw. On a standard rim wouldn't go bigger than 175's though, think 155's were standard fitment.

can't comment on the webers, but my cammed 5k was about 3 sec quicker per lap than the stock 3k :hmm: This was before it was fitted with factory twin carbs. It was quicker than an almost identical KE20 that was powered by a BIG cammed (nothing happened to after 3500rpm), high compression 4k over an eigth mile. All I did was remove the standard cam, drop it into the engine machinist and got them to regrind it to what ever specs they recommended based on what it was going to be used for, in my case club based motorsport.

First of all, welcome. don't know where you are based, but it seems to me that you need to join up with a CAMS or AASA(??) afilliated car club and try out some events before you jump in and make a heap of mods that may or may not work. Learn some car control and listen to what people tell you regarding your driving!!!!! Once you get the hang of the Rolla, then you can make an informed decision whether to keep it as a nice streeter or if you want to go down the drift road, circuit racing road, rally road etc..... PS. dump the 4k, a 5k is SOOOOOOO much nicer :hmm:

I'm guessing by the "ignitor" question, you have an electronid dizzy on your 5k or have access to one. Whether or not you need one depends on the electronic dizzy as some, the 5k ones I think, had an inbuilt ignitor and the 4k ones needed an external ignitor. If you have a 5k dizzy, you can hook up the two wires directly to your coil. Shit, something in the back of my mind is telling me that the coil needs to have a built in resistace, something like a GT40R, to work properly. Others may be able to clarify this :wink: As for the exhaust, Id say for a street car it would have to go over the diff or you would end up with ground clearance issues even though we went under the diff on my KE20 racer. And yes premium can be used, but unless you are way up on compression I wouldnt bother. Again, my KE20 was now faster when using standard or premium unleaded. This was backed up via a stopwatch on the same surface on the same day.

replace the 4k with something useful - like a 5k then mod it

refill yours with thicker oil. Did it to mine and it made them much stiffer. But don't use old sump oil - the seals don't like it ;)

225's will go under a ke35 no probs. Had to lip the guards to be safe but they went under. Stuffed if I know what the offset was though. Sorry 'bout the quality of the pick but it is the best I could do atm....... By the way, it ended up a lot lower than that over the years.

The questions to ask yourself are: Does the car under or oversteer? If it does, what part of the corner does it happen? And Do I like what it does? The answers to these questions will determine what you do to the car.

Also ask yourself do I have hydrilic lifters and do you want to change them to solids as this woll determine the cam grinds you can get. Personally I stuck with the hydrolic lifters and had my cam reground to Wade 169 specs. Noticable lump at idle, but not excessive and a good spread of power. Would spin to 8000 rpm as well. Could of gone bigger, but it would of made it a pig to drive and slower overall.

How light did Peter get his KE10 (or was it a KE05 - it was only half a KE10 when he had finished) back in the day???????

But we both know someone who said his '20 weighed under 700kg, don't we Red.........

a locker, talent, fwd When I was competing in Ballarat, it was generally accepted that fwd was approx. 3-5 seconds quicker per lap of the autocross track. The bastards don't have to lift off when thay start sliding :abuse:

Do you unscrew the knob out of the handbrake lever. If you do, it will disapble the ratchet. Makes it a lot easier to use in an event .... :D

The rear bar makes a great boat anchor............ Always used to run 13's usually 205's or 185's depending on what I could get. Found some great retreads at one stage. 205/60/13's that looked like a normal tyre tread on the outside but the inner tread was identical to a Desert Dueler off road tyre. Yokahama used to do a great tyre for dirt. 352 pattern rings a bell but others will know better. Had the tread made up of a heap of 'A's Look for something that is nice and agressive with big chunky blocks. By the way, I could win khanacrosses outright just running road tyres. One event I was one of the few cars the didnt get bogged. Most of the cars running rally tyres got stuck.

With a locker I was chasing as much initial turn in as possible. Toe out helped with this by getting more work out of the inside tyre. Something like that in theory anyway.

Nah mate. If you remember Kylie that I used to be with back in the day, it was hers until we bought it off her.

5k - boost in torque will bring a smile. From memory, the change to a cammed 5k was worth aqbout 1.5 seconds a kilometre :D Try to wind in as much castor into the front end as you can, I used to run about 5-10mm toe out and I also softened the rear end to suit my driving style.

play with tyre pressures change tyres change the time you run - if you start first try to run later after all the loose shit has been swept off by others or if it is getting chopped up try and run earlier in the order lighten the car move weight around in the car change the suspension drive with your head not your balls You are not going to make up 3 seconds by flat changing during a khanacross. Even if you save 0.2 seconds every time you shift, you wont be shifting from first to second 15 times (not counting going back to first).

You wont get outright by flat changing. Your gonna go slower as the shock loading on the rear tyres is gonna break them loose. Its gonna spin up and YOU WILL BE SLOWER.........or you will be on a trailer with a broken box/tailshaft/diff. You may be quicker with less wheel spin. I know I was quicker over a section of the local autocross track by keeping it smooth. Looked and felt boring, but the stop watch doesnt lie. Trust me, been there done that.

It does - you need to open your eyes ;)

Keep thinking back to an old Street Machine article on gearboxes. I quote: "If you keep on breaking manual gearboxes, go and buy an auto" Kinda agree - a k40 will tolerate some abuse if treated with respect - and abusing one will not make you faster, trust me

Here is another grill to suit the early bonnet.

If you treat a box like that - not long Another for smooth changing. You may (most likely may not) save a pooftenth of a second flat shifting, but the shock loading is gonna break traction and kick you sideways costing you bulk time. As Red said, smooth = fast, and he is one to listen too. Buy the way, I only killed one K40 in over 10 years of motorsport - back into first gear at 50km/h took teeth of first gear.

you got a 50 50 chance. If the drum doesnt get tighter to get on, your going the wrong way!

would be more top endy in a 3k than in a 4k