coln72

GRRR just notied our f*&^%# telly has dropped out again. Not happy Jan :( Worked fine this morning too.....

Dunno if it was just us but when I got back from visiting family for a couple of weeks, we had no channels either :( and ours was working perfectly before we left. I am tuned into the Ballarat transmitter as well so that may of been an issue for you if it was down.

If you read my first post, 1.5 hours was drive in drive out ready to race :)

Things to remember - 1. We had lots of practice with K motors 2. As it was a competition car, everything that could be done to make an engine change easier had been done by then. 3. There was two of us working on it, both of us with lots of time working on '20s. 4. The 5k had just gone in. Everything was easy to get back undone, nothing seized etc 5. It had to be done quick as it was entered in an event the next day and everything else had to be prepared

What, 6 hours!!!!!!! Drinking too much or something ;) Drive in drive out, it took 1.5 hours to remove the 5k and slot in the 3k so I could compete the next day.

I know my manual KE35 had a 4.3 I'd have to look up my parts manual but I think that ratios were 3.9, 4.11, 4.22, 4.3, (4.4 I think) and 4.5 depending on model and country

Guess that would be me as I have done this in the past. Yes it worked, the LCA's were moved out about an inch each side but had to be moved up as well to do it, so it will also change your front roll centre. Also it was a competition only car and unregistered so I had no issues about legallity. There is a thread somewhere on here with a pic showing the old holes and where the new ones were.

Just cause it is brand new, doesnt mean the pressure plate is ok. My old man went through 3 or 4 new pressure plates in his HZ before he cracked the shits and got one of the new ones reconditioned. All of the new ones shuddered like a bitch and when you looked at them, the fingers were either bent or cracked on the new ones (some were genuine GMH). Through the recoed one in and no issues.

silly question, is the throw out bearing fitted?????

I fitted KE70 front brakes to my early KE35 and noticed no difference in braking performance.

Buy decent rims suited for a RWD and spacing issues are not an issue. Had 225/60/13's under the rear of my KE35 with minimal mods. Only lipped the guards. Could of gone wider with different rims as still had room on the inside.

from memory, not that much. Maybe a little thicker in the disc and a better(ish) caliper depending on what your KE20 already has.

Remember doing something like this when I changed to KE35 calipers and discs on my KE20. Used the KE20 outer hubs but bolted the KE35 disc to it. Gave me the correct spacing for the later caliper with the added bonus of keeping the KE20 stud pattern.

Weird, when we did that conversion years ago, we had no such issues. What bearings are you using? From memory, had to run the ke 70 outer and the ke20 inner bearings (or the other way around, was over 10 years ago.... :blush: ).

^^^^^^ second that - similar set up to my old KE20 and that was lotsa fun

Its been 20 years since I've been in the classroom as a student...... :blush:

This event didnt exist when I was in Tech School, started the year after I left >| Used to run a HPV team a few years ago but sorta got pissed off with the attitudes of some of the teams. It was like they were playing for sheep stations, with all the agro that went with that. Also, HPV's are now a formular event. You use this bit and that bit, throw on this blokes canopy, train the shit out of your kids for 8 months and you go fast. For me that is boring. Hybrids are a lot more "mad scientist". Very few schools are alike. Hell, even our schools two hybrids are totally differet. They still use the same motor, same rear wheels and tyres, and both use a friction drive and pedals but that is where the similarities stop. Both of us have our own ideas we are developing and trialling.

This pic shows some of the frame and the motor setup. You need to ignore the electric motor as this was an experiment to try to make a petrol/electric hybrid. It worked well but getting a reliable speed controller was a bitch, so I removed it and went back to pedals

I'll see what I can find. The pink one is from an all girls school, and it is probably the best one of their vehicles.....

ask and you shall receive

Guess so, just got the motor with nothing bolted to it as I make up my own drive system.

Still have the scars from that one :blush: It may of been me, but I am now running a 35cc OHC Honda. Were forced to make up a bitsa carby for it out of an old 31cc carby and the 35cc carby when the original one wouldnt suck fuel, but the played up during the race. Were forced to get another 35cc carby, and fit it up during the race. Prick of a job when everything is shrunk wrapped around the motor :blinks:

lmao :laff: yep it was in Maryborough. Bit busy to jump on the computer over the weekend so I guess that I will let you know the results. The team I run in the event did an incredible job. Out of the three areas of the event - design & construction, display & presentation, and the race itself - we won our class in the race by a lazy 53 laps covering 795 km and placing fourth outright. Display and presentation was also ours, but we missed out on design and construction though, only scoring second in that area :( Once the scores from each category were added up we ended up winning the overall award for the class, scoring 96.33 points out of 100. Oh, and I forgot to mention that I still had one litre of fuel left out of the original three litres left at the end of the race :bash: so the team could of went faster

Well its on again this weekend. For those who don't know it is a school event where the kids race for 24 hours in either human powered or hybrid (2 power sources) vehicles. Tonight was qualifying for us and the team I run put it on pole by over a second. Nice feeling when you have spent a year building the vehicle. If you are interested, come and say g'day. We are team number 10 on the Holden track.

would run a minimum of 7500rpm (where the shift light was set) when competing. Usually over it, like off the tacho, so umm no it isnt necessary to change to solids to pull bigish revs. A money no object race 5k where you are chasing every single percent of performance, I guess it would be benificial to swap just to be able to rev that bit more. In a street motor, 7000 rpm should be plenty if you want it to be drivable as well.