TRD ke70

ok, i think what your engine has done is glaze the bores up, because you ran the cam in as what it says on the spec sheet,2500rpm for 20 minutes or something like that. the engine hasn't had any load on it(no load on the rings).now don't get me wrong, i think your've done a good thing by trying to run the cam in, but(there's always a but) the engine needs load on it for the rings to bed in. what a lot of these cam manufactures don't tell you is that you can run the cam in by driving it, just don't flogg it. the next thing is the oil, don't use castrol oil to run your engine in,or any other oil that is "Friction Modified" this will glaze the bores up as well. what i use is the cheapest oil from the local supermarket, most of the time it's a SF or lower rated oil. i think SH is the highest at the moment.(could be new post maybe for oil ratings) because oils are getting better and better there's less engine wear happening, when you run an engine in you need a small amount of wear to happen. hope this helps and clears up some questions. yeah i did make the sump for the rally car, didn't take to long to do. all you need is some steel,a mig, and a sump and some patients.

your oil problem!! what oil did you use to run the engine in?? and how did you run the engine in??? we've got a baffled sump in the rally car, there not that hard to make. mmmm, maybe i should start to make some???

it was the big green thing on the side that made me think it was a cortina, it's been years since i worked on them and are happy to say i'll NEVER work on another again.

some more 4AGE info. 4age site

there is a small advantage if you can be bothered. we don't in this engine, but have in others.

check this out and you might get more of an idea of what i'm talking about. baffled sump sump

good afternoon good morning is ohayo gozaimasu good evening is konbanwa

this sounds like a serious problem, any loss in oil pressure under load is never a good thing. your oil pressure should stay resonably Consistent, but you'll find it'll drop down a little at idle. really the only way to know is through the use of a pressure Gauge that is Sensitive enought to pick up the smallest of pressure drops. pressure drops the most under hard acceleration, 1-2 gear is usally where you'll notice it, that's when you have max weight tranfer, and also hi speed cornering shows it up. i hope this saves someones engine.

I thought i'd start this after talking to Teddy about his engine he's building. i found this out the hard way in my starlet, running a 5k, it would Accelerate really hard and the last thing i expected when i went to freshen the engine up, was to find number one big end almost run. soon as i saw this i knew what had caused it, it was running just a standard sump, with so much acceleration the oil was been thrown to the back of the sump, staving the engine of oil. Now i'm wondering how many people out there have the same thing happening and don't know it, my oil light NEVER came on(remenber the oil switch is only 10psi). a little food for thought. :dry:

so you work for the EPA Mel!!! how many things can i blame you for, the list is pretty long.

i have a friend of mine at the moment looking for a good mechanic, he offered me the job but i said no because i'm happy where i am. shame you haven't got your papers yet, other wise i would have given him your name. he's got a new workshop and a dyno, nice guy as well. oh dyno the rally car on monday as well, that'll be interesting. :)

yeah, how much of the wiring daigram do you need??

then i would say it's an old 2L cortina carb.

that's just it - decent the mechanic who i get my toyota trade price thru recently had one of his staff quit, and the other have a stroke. the place was busy as buggery, but he couldn't find anyone worth employing from the pile of resumes he had sitting there it got to the point where he was just going to poach someone else from another business with better pay (so what tony said about having to know everything is very true). then the stroke guy came back and all was well again :angrybird: good help in general is hard to find jamie's on the money, f@$ken hard to find good help in any trade. it's not about having a trade anymore, it's more about finding good skilled people who do a good job and don't cost you money. i know so many trade mechanics who just don't give a f**k about quality and "she''ll be right mate" attitude. the best one i know is the old "mono torque head gasket", doesn't need retorquing. BULLSHIT. there's a really good chance of you having to replace the head gasket again in 6 months. EVERY HEAD GASKET HAS CRUSH, and that came from a gasket manufacturer. mono torque is a name band!!!!

is it progressive or do both throttle flaps open at the same time. if the later i'd say it's off a V6 cortina 2.3L or V6 capri 3.0L.

try a 7k, 1.8L comes out in a townace SBV from 97-02, EFI or caby.

my advice is stay out of the automotive industry. it's low paid, dirty conditions, most of the employers are f@$kwits. here's something to think about. you spend 4-5 years to get your trade papers and then your expected to know all the manufactures, all the models and all the parts over thousands,if not millions of cars. and your expected to know exactly whats wrong with it without even looking at the car. then the costumer wants a cheap job. and you get paid award wages of about 12-13 dollars an hour. go to uni or stay at school and get a job that pays well, then you can play around with them. it's alot more fun when you have the money to fix them. saying that i do enjoy my job.

i think there's something in the reg's about the engine has to retain the same number of valves has what the car came out with, so that rules out 4AGE's but T engines are ok. there was a guy in NZ, Dunedin(?) called rodger Oakley he had a 3T powered KE70 and F**k did it hammer. 3T's are a good strong engine and with a bit of work can produce some good power.

custom length tailshaft??? what T-50 box are you using?? there is 2, small shaft and large, the later been in the AE86. if you have a K box in there now there shouldn't be any difference in length when you fit the T-50 box.

for the price of those parts you could buy yourself a 7k-c, at least you'd start with decent capacity and some good torque, then i'd start to spend money on that. ie. solid lifters $200,side draughts $500-$600,extractors $100-$150, get the idea.

i'll bring it down to the all toyota day with me, hopefully you'll be there. hasn't been a problem, it's just sitting there collecting dust. i think i used it once to stop the rally car rolling out the garage. :)

we still have TRD plate from nz,brought it for $330 in 1988, f@$k knows what it's worth now. Rally car with TRD plate

no problem, i've got 2 copies of that. told you it was good, so when are going to build your flow bench??? if i remember i'll bring the cams manual.

yip, when you bring the other books back :)

what museum in Japan was it in??? if i go back to work for Suzuki i'll try and get there. i know toyota have a museum in Nagoya and it's only an hour up the road.