TRD ke70

i'm starting to get concerned, it was a genuine toyota starlet manual which covered all the efi stuff. someone borrowed it to scan and look though it, i thought it was nick, but he hasn't got it and everyone else has said nope. i don't want to stop sharing but if it doesn't turn up soon, i'll have no choice as these manuals are expensive.

i reckon the pedders comfort gas are good, brought a set of sport riders for the van and they seem to be good as well. my last corolla had comfort gas in it and it was fantastic.

i lent my genuine starlet efi manual to someone. dumb me has forgotten who. come on who's got it. TEDDY??

that sounds like the problem, we have only single springs in the rally car with a 1.5mm spacer. they were duals but i reckoned the seat pressure would be too hi, so i took the inner out and just ran the single outers. the seat pressures i run are about 90psi, standard is 70-75 psi i think. (never had a problem with valve bounce, and if you do run too higher pressures you can loose HP.) but the open pressures can get as hi as 300psi. i'd be trying to find out what springs you have and what they should be running. our springs were made by preformance springs, i think they're called CB4's. they recommended installing them (both inner and outer) with a 3mm spacer. glad i didn't.

thanks Warrick for the epc snapshot. not a great fan of chevy lifters,genuine or aftermarket, i reckon they don't have the same case hardening that toyota parts have, nothing like genuine parts. my old starlet had the solids(genuine) in it for 3 years before i pulled it down for a rebuild and the cam and lifters were perfect, the rally car has had them in there for 4 years and never any problems, don't even adjust the tappets very offen. only other thing what would cause lifter wear like that would be valve spring pressures are to hi.

ignition barrel for sure, if you keep just enough pressure on the switch when you release it, you'll find it should still run. turn the ignition on (not start) and try your coil test again, if there's no power it's the ignition barrel.

there is a solid lifter for a 5K and they are the same as 3f landcrusier. here's the toyota part number. also you use 4k push rods and rocker gear, that depends on what 5k engine you have, flat top pistons or dished pistons, because there is a difference in length of the pushrods. love to know why your 5k chewed up cams and lifters???

there was a TRD rally ratio made years ago for the k box but TRD stopped making it, from what i know it was about the mid 80's that they stopped making it. it's a really hard gear set to find, the one we have is the track ratio gearset with the big first gear. you could be lucky and have one of the rally sets. the only way to tell would be pull the pants off the box and count the teeth on the gears.

i had the same problem with mine if the battery got down, not flat but was not fully charged. it could be the Solenoid not engaging due to lack of power, see if there's a starter relay, if there is try changing it. yip you can clean the connections with sandpaper.

so what was the question you were asking????? oh, use 3TG pistons.

yip the 5k will bolt up to a 4 speed box, just use the 4k flywheel and clutch. and just check the engine number on the 5k it's under No 3 spark plug on the block, it should say 5k then the engine number. i use to have a kp60 starlet with a 5k in it so it can be done and it's not that hard.

thanks mickey, i haven't seen this problem before.

what engine is it and what's it in, does it have an oil cooler???? auto or manual??? how much diesel does it use, per 100km's. to me it sounds like the oil is breaking down due to excess fuel or dirt. diesel oils have a hi degree of detergent because diesel fuel is really dirty,try changing where you fill up with diesel. have you had the sump off it?? could be one of the breather pipe's on the engine somewhere is blocked also.

when do you last change the oil??? sounds like shit or very cheap oil. what you need to look for on the oil pack is SH/CC or higher rating. the first letters refer to petrol engine the last refer to diesel engines.

no problem, anytime.

14-16 thou is what you want, but the best way is with a dwell meter, the reading should be 49-54 degress. or even better F**k the whole lot off and put electronic ignition on it, it'll start better and you get a better spark.

trust me they are different.

it's because all the panel vans were made in japan with the later front, australia only got one model and there was three models made for the rest of the world. toyota should still have a listing for your light, if not try the wreckers, if you still can't find one, you might have to get one from NZ.

here's a link to some video of a corner in the last stage. Tony hard on it.

they do change over, but the auto engine won't go into a manual they are different. as long as it's a 4G63 manual, 8v or 16v the blocks are the same.

thanks everyone, it was a fantastic result, we still can't believe that the old girl managed to get 3rd. but this is the really mazing bit, we are now 1st outright for the KCF series. the last KCF should be a really good event.

what are you wanting to do??? replace the cas with a dizzy or just fix the cas???

last stage

they came = to Craig Aggio in a 2.8L supra. what a result for a KE70 with a K engine. there's going to be a lot of photos and video, everyone was snapping away.

well, Tony and Peta have managed to place the corolla in an outright placing at KCF. they came 3rd (equal) = outright 2nd - classic 1st -1600cc photo's and video to come. GIDDY UP!!!!!!