TRD ke70

i'd like to know, where in Australia are you going to buy Supra bonnet vents? might not be a good idea but keep trying you'll come up with something original that everyone will like.

you can get rid of most of the torque steer, but it requires stupid amounts of caster on the front wheels, then you need power steering to help turn the car because of the caster. this why most FWD cars have PWS, 7 degress + is what you'd be aiming for. i've seen FWD over 15 degress to fight torque steer. putting a LSD into it will make it worse.

50mm difference, dude you have some serious problems in the back. check to see if the pan hard rod is bent, if not check the bushes by moving the car side to side in the back, there should be no movement from the bushes. if all else fails, get under the car with a tape measure and measure from the centre of the diff to a point on the chassis rail on both sides, you should get about the same measurement.

i might look into to this a little further, i have a couple of K boxes that need rebuilding, so i'll get some prices on bearings and seals and sit down and work out what a box is worth to rebuild. teddy,can you get a price on what a cluster shaft and bearings are worth from toyota? you can't buy these after market.

this gearbox didn't happen to come from chris kelly??? yellow Ke70 with uprite and side draughts. has now returned to NZ??? if so the problem was, it was a smooth case k50 box and it came out of a starlet which the clutch fork has a bend in it, the speedo was out because the diff ratio is a 3.9 (jap diff) not for a B/W diff as Aus got. know this car and the owner well. hope that clears up a few things.

AH that's whats going on. thanks Nick.

A short skirt and a low cut top and you won't have to pay $14.:y: i'd be thinking wheel bearing, had my old camry and Celica do the same thing. some days quite but others the wheel sounded like it was going to fall off. just made sure the hub nut isn't loose, doesn't take much, they need to have about 150nm of torque on them to keep the wheel bearing quite.

i know what you're saying. but if you measure up a 7k against a 5k you'll find that the blocks are different heights. with a 7k crank in a 5k block the rods hit the bottom of the bores. to fit the crank you'd have to machine a lot of meat out of the bottom of the bore so the rods clear, thus weakening the block too much.

because a 5k at the time was $1200, a 4k block and a set of pistons, f@$k all. the rebore $110 because it had to be bored 5.5mm, and 7k's weren't made then. and no you can't turn a 5k into a 7k. different crank,rods,block and pistons.

never struck that in a T-50, but i'd say it's a slector problem, most likely worn out. there is a small nylon bush that sits on the bottom of the gearstick, if that's worn it'll give simular problems. there's also what they call "dee tents" which stop you shifting 2 gears at once and if they haven't been put back in right they can cause problems. the early T-50's do have smaller bearings and a smaller out put shaft size. the AE86 has bigger needle roller bearings and larger shaft sizes. but both boxes don't really have any common problems.

sounds like vacumn leak at the manifold. did it run like that before you put the extracters on? if not i'd say the manifold gasket is f@$ked. try spraying a little water or WD40 over the manifold where it mates to the head and see if the rpm picks up, if it does you've got a leak.

T-w bell housing, try a 3tgte, but hard to find. there is a liteace van (TM20) that came out with a T series engine(13T), you could try and find one of those, not sure if the bellhousing would be the right one but most vans have a W series box.

T-50 box is the way to go, but use one from a sprinter(AE86 twincam) these have needle roller bearins and larger shafts. the early T series from TE27's-TE72's have a smaller sharft sizes and just ball race type bearing.(also smaller). you can buy some good ratio's for T-50's as well as straight cut gearsets. like Toycrash said, there good for 250hp but you do have to maintain them. check out the link: palmside

there was 2 rods in a 4k and only 1 in a 5k. found this out the hard way when i lived in NZ. all the 4k commercials had the heavy rods. dished piston or flat tops, it didn't matter. Not all late 4k's (family cars) have the heavy rod, but all 5k's do. and you're right, order a rod from toyota and you'll get a heavy rod. Matt Dunn, that would be Allan Dunn's boy? also the the light rod was good for 8 grand and the heavy was good for 10 grand.(that came from Warren Burt).

what's it in? a celcia,corolla,rav4?? we have a epc that tells you what you have but we need all the VIN number.

what about a 9000rpm club???? try buying some new "O" for the plug tubes and use some sealant on them when you install them.

also check the flexi rubber hoses,not only on the outside, i've seen these collapse internally.

most recent, Nickelback- Photograph how good is that?

yip toyota done with the 5k, thats why they have bigger lifters. to increase the duration and lift without changing the timing so to speak.

what engine does it have? 4afe,7afe or 1zzfe? have a manual for a 1zzfe.

No point having all that power if you can't be fast though a corner, i've seen a 4K powered 1300cc rally flogg the shit out of a XU1 GTR on a race track, because boat anchors don't corner well. it's all about weight, less weight more Acceleration, higher cornering speeds better handling. SR20DET is the way to go, good power,heaps of go fast bits, and there all ALLOY!!!!

remind me closer to the time and i'll see if i can bring the rally car out of retirement, with it's correct front back on. OO IIIIII OO Have to wash it, and that's like a 4 hour job. :cool:

try seaching L16B or L16E

depending what year the lite ace is, it can have a 4k,5k,2y and i think the very last of them had a 3y(2.0L). there is also 2 5k versions as well, one with flat top pistons the other with dished pistons and if you're really luck you'll get one with solid lifters.( don't hold your breath ) all had electronic ignition. all the K engined ones are column change and the Y powered ones were floor change.

need to know more details, like what damper you're using, what sway bars do you have? how much money do you want to spend? what brands can you get? what tyres are you going to run? TRD still make good dampers for AE86 sprinters, yours beening a T series should have the 2 "struts, the rears i'm sure are the same.