TRD ke70

Garrmax international in Brendale could have some. ph is 38811692

have you tested the fuel cut of solenoid on the side of the carby? it shuts the fuel off to the idle circuit when you turn the car off. to test it: turn the ignition on and pull the wire off (should be the only wires going to the carby)and when back on, you should hear the solenoid click,if it doesn't it's f@$ked.

just ordered one!!!!

that's a good deal, i'd have a pair asian's over a webber anyday. but it'd also have a pair of side draught dellortos over the down draughts. still a good swap, you can buy webbers anywhere, but twin asian's are getting hard to find.

yip, there should be a slotted bracket with a bolt though it on to the alternator, just loosen it off and move the alternator to tighten the belt. you might find you have to loose the bottom alternator bolt as well, which is under the alternator and really hard to see.

i have a set of 5K genuine toyota solid lifters for sale. $80 for the set. PM me if you're interested.

Narangba wreckers have 3 T-18's up there and i think they still have diffs.

JDM AE70-E, you could get PWS(was rack and pinion), TE70 also(steering box) there were only 2 in the 70 range. if you really need PWS, try getting the steering column out of a suzuki ignis, they have electric PWS. cool setup.

more lift and less duration, otherwise you blow your boost out the exhaust. a smallish cam with good lift would be the go. to much valve overlap and it'll take to long for the turbo to spool up(come on boost).

we need more T18 owners. i love these cars, they look so cool dropped on there guts.

over fueling could be due to a few things,engine temp sensor for the ECU could be f@$ked, telling the ECU that the engine is cold so giving it more gas. try getting the injectors cleaned, that could be dirty due to shit fuel. check the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail is working, that will cause over fuelling. Oxy sensor could be f@$ked or the wiring has a problem. if all else fails get someone to check to ECU tuning, or refit the factory ECU and see if that fixes the problem. the noise in the front, i don't think it'll be C/V's, not at 60'000km's. all your problems you are having SHOULD be fixed under warranty. the car only has 60'000km's, demand it's fixed, don't take no for an answer or we'll monitor it. get them to fix it now before it gets worse, all the noise's and the fuel problem.

datsun A and L series engines Toyota: 2jz-gtte 2t 3t 3t-gte 4t-gte 1zzfe 2zzfe 3rzfe 1nzfe 2nzfe 4age 4agze 4etfe and alot more

EIS, electronic injection services. he's the guy i use, his name is Jamie. can't find his number but i think it's in the yellow pages.

auto gearboxes done have clutches like a manual. they have torque converters. sorry you have to buy a new clutch.

The Corolla Teddy serviced for in 2005. Name: Chris(TRD KE70) & Tony(TRD) Car:1980 KE70 Rally Car,NZ built, Factory Twin Round Headlight. Motor & Driveline:TRD uprite 5k, Twin Dellortos, 2 1/4" exhaust, Hand Made extractors, Denso Electronic Ignition, Custom Steel Flywheel, Paddle Clutch, 3 Boxes for Rallying, T-50, TRD K50 & Standard K50, TRD Quick Shift, One Peice Tailshaft, AE86 Disc Brake Diff, TRD 4.78 Gears, TRD 2 Way LSD. Suspension & Brakes:AE86 Struts & 4 Wheel Disc Brakes, TRD Brake Pads, Braided Brake lines, TRD Rally Shocks, AE86 PWS Arms, Spherical bushes, Carrera Springs & Adjustable Platforms(front), Vented Brembo Rotors(front), AE86 Standard disc's(rear), Kp60 Starlet springs. Wheels & Tyres:Bridgestone Rally Potenza 13x5.5 Mags. Interior:Racetech Seats, Body:MANZ Approved 8 Point 38mm Welded Rollcage, Lightened, NZ Pensonalized TRD Plates. Other: 2005 Queensland 1600cc Class Winner. 2005 KCF Short Course Rally Series 3rd Outright, 2005 KCF Short Course Rally Series 1600cc Winner.

yes you can use 4k rods but be careful there is a lite one and a heavy one. match them up with the 5k rods, you'll soon see the difference. the difference is in the bore size between a 4k and 5k, they use the same rod length and piston pin size. as for the lifters, you can buy solid lifers for a 5k, they did come out with them, then just use the 4k rocker gear, but again there are diffences in the push rods, if you have a dished piston 5k, you'll need push rods from a dished piston 4k, if you have a flat top piston 5k (a little rare) normal 4k push rods are the go. check the FAQ for the part number for the lifters.

buy the book it's a really good read. explains everything and how to make it work better.

i've owned a straight LPG (K) powered corolla and it was good. it produced better power than ulp, but the engine was built for it. higher compression to make use of the higher octane that LPG has, had a little more advance on the ignition as well. it's a lot cleaner fuel, the oil after 10,000km's is still clean, and it's EPA approved. use to cost me about $15 to fill a 40L tank and i use to get close to 500km's from it. so to me it was worth it, but i never paid for the conversion.

what do you want to know? and what nick said, it's a good book.

welcome to rollaclub! :P make yourself at home.

heard the same thing about the 5k's when they came out, that it wasn't a rev,ing engine. seen many a 5k hit 8000+rpm no problem. i'd expect a 7k with a change of cam, solid lifters,head work, decent carbs, etc to see 8000rpm. reliability shouldn't be a problem, as they are a commercial engine and there toyota.

as clear as mud :P got the gen1 bit but what is meant by beams????? jim beams, headlight beams, suspension beams?????? having a THICK day.

silly question, but what is a G1 Beams?

spend $10 dollars on fuel and bring it over i'll do it for you. best to take the whole shaft out of the car, undo the hub nut first, 32mm socket is required, next the 2 strut bolts out, you may have to mark the top bolt washer thingy, as some camrys have camber adjustment there. also take off the tie rod end, makes it easier to get the shaft out. 6 allen key bolts hold the inner shaft on, once those are off the shaft should come out. now here the part i can't remenber, it could have either a circlip or a spring clip holding the c/v on to the shaft. peel the boot back and stick your finger into where the c/v balls are, there could be a clip in there, if not the c/v is held in with a spring clip. just checked should be a spring clip. you need a big hammer, and hit the c/v and it should come off. hope this helps, if not ring me fook, 0403756002 and i'll talk you though it.

go the round headlights.