TRD ke70

i just want to get that c**t who owes me a trophy from last year. i'll be there waiting.

code 51 is for the A/C load signal, if you have an imobilizer fitted i'd bet that's the problem. some of them work by shutting off the signal for the injectors or can shut of the crank angle signal which comes from the dizzy.

extension housing on the 5 speed is larger to take the 5th gear.

i know rob, i have done a 5 bar link conversion on a starlet, a lot of work but it was worth it. i think a good thing would be for him to buy "how to make your car handle". st.nick: keeping in mind that he has all the tools and should beable to get a cheap KE70 for parts, not that much. an engineer only has to look over his work and the design, if it's kept along the same lines as the donor car there shouldn't be any problem. i like the idea, but i've done this conversion and it's a lot of work. the benifits for me were worth it, but i did drive the starlet on it's limit and beyond. see pic

Sorry Rob!!! 5 bar link rear ends are the way to go, leave springs are an old design, they still use them on commercials because they can carry greater weight and are cheap to make. look at all the RWD cars from the mid 80's on and most use 5 or 4 bar link rear ends, if not IRS. the best setup would be IRS, but you're talking big bucks. 5 bar links do put more power on the road = more traction. but like Rob said, you have to know what you want out of the car, increasing the traction could be as simple as an LSD if that's all you want. requires some serious thought.

i think the biggest think is DON't nurse it, don't flogg it. the idea is to get load against the engine, or better explained would be load against the rings. it's not ring tension that holds the rings on to the cylinder wall it's combustion pressure against the back of the ring, and the more pressure the quicker the engine will bed in. that's just a basic explaination. the link love ke70 posted is right on the money, i've tried both ways and the best result is his way. my 5c + gst

how to tell if the 5k you're about to buy has flat top pistons without pulling the head off. (works 99% of the time) First the dished piston head should have 2 luggs cast into the head, one under No1 spark plug hole and the other under No4(see pic)(7k head shown) 5K's fitted with flat top pistons DON'T have this casting. this also works with 4k's, i think 4k-u has dished pistons.

has been done and it works well. good idea. had a mate in NZ with a 4k with a pair of juggs on it and it went well. some has told me that a suzuki diff fits a jap diff housing but haven't tried it yet so can't confirm that. good luck.

could be the combo switch is has dirty contacts, had almost the same problem with my old ke70. you can fix it by pulling the combo switch apart and cleaning all the contacts.

and the QRC(queensland rally championship)1600cc. check out what that engine had done and that was only one year. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...rally+a+corolla

never had a gugdeon pin problem, always seams to be pistons. but i do know what everyone means. still working on the 4AGE piston idea, but so far can't see to many problems.

head looks ok, no bent valves, but there was coolant sitting in the crown of the piston which we think has come from the piston belting the head and stretching the head bolts and allowing coolant to enter the cylinder. most of the damage is in the bottom end.

still checking it out, but it's looking good. 4age pistons are 81mm so you have to bore the block. they also come with an 18mm or 20mm pin. there's not much difference in height either.

No problem, we have 2 spare 5k blocks with cranks and rods, i have 2 complete 7k engines and i'm sure there's some other goodies in the garage i can use as well. have to buy some new ARP rod bolts, as the old ones are a little bent, and maybe some 4AGE pistons, i know they can handle 8000rpm. she'll live again

constant reving at 7000+ rpm will do that if there's no load on the engine. the Autocross circuit is clay and you're only allowed to use road tyres, so it's like driving on ice, NO TRACTION.

not sure, but thinking the piston let go, has happened before. could be a bad piston??

this is the end result of last sundays sponsor day at willowbank autocross circuit.

it's a japanesse sprinter, they came out with an A,k,T and a C engine. it has a sprinter grille, park lights, guards. it's a sprinter.

beerhead: ok i'll just write that down and sort it tomorrow. tiger: Trd quick shifts are worth about $170 us and the T50 ones fits K gearboxes. our quick shift cost nothing, it came in from japan on a gearbox and no one knew what it was. :P here's the one out of the rally car, this one i brought back from japan, Tony got it on yahoo auctions and got it sent to me at Suzukisport. the other one we had was like the one posted. had the spacer and was really good quality.

quote: Our T3 Short Throw Shifter features a 55% reduction in throw. Yes! That is 55% reduction vs. TRD's 33% Reduction in throw. we have a TRD T50 short shifter and it's more than 33%, closer to 50%. looks almost the same as the TRD item, does make a difference but make sure your gearboxes are in good nick, as it is hard on the syncro's.

try a new set of points, test to see if you have power to the points by turning the ignition on and opening the points with a screw driver, if you have power the points are f@$ked, if not check for broken connection. common problem for points :P thank f@$k for electronic ignition.

will do, i'm sure there's more. :)

more info. the conrods with location dowels, i wonder if 7afe's have this? also have yield strength conrods bolts, for those who don't know, you can only torque these once before you have to replace them, they work on bolt stretch and not torque. the pistons have very little oil relief, hard to see in the picture, but there's only 2 holes, this could cause problems in the future with oil burning. the block has steam holes that i don't think i've ever seen in any other K engine. looking into the block you can see the cut outs for the conrod's to clear, and they don't clear by much. i'm sure there's still more to be discovered.

TRD made 4.78 and a 5.1 ratio for the (6") jap centre, i think that fits the early diff housings, but good luck finding a 4.78, i know someone with a 5.1 and LSD. what ratio's are you looking for?

this is some of the stuff i'm finding as i fiddle around with the (2) 7k's i got recently. the best thing, (i haven't seen anyone post about this yet). they have a fully counter balanced crank. TRD k cranks were romured to be fully counter balanced, but i've never seen one. the conrods are 7afe and with a pressed 20mm pin. the oil pump pick up is steel,(good uprite engines where you have to change the pick up) the combustion chamber has been opened up and the ports have a better shape. the sump is deeper, but not by much. i'll post more as i find it.