TRD ke70

Or just buy a 7k!!

yeah the 4k-5k crank has a 42mm bigend, so does a 100kw 4age, i think thats right, pay to check. because 4Age's also had 40mm bigends!!! but yes cheap way to go, but there can be some problems along the way. Need anymore info, PM Tony(TRD) and he should beable to give you all the info you need.

so i guess it's disc brake rear? google for the manual, there's plenty out there. manual

Yip 4AGE pistons and rods can be fitted, but the block as to be machined down about 1.5mm to get good compression, the A rods aren't as wide on the bigend as the K rods but this doesn't seem to cause any problems. Know of a couple of race and rally :yes: engines which are done this way and have had good reliabilty out of them.

Yes i see your point TAZ, and they are right to a point. What i'm was thinking of is a street/weekend track engine. Those trd engines were rev'ed to 10,000rpm, where they did need to open the exhaust up. But the TRD manual is old technology these days, there has been some big improvements in understanding how gases flow through an engine. It's hard to explain without the aid of pictures, but if anyone has heard of anti reversion, they will know what i'm talking about, that's with the exhaust. Velocity/air speed over volume is more important, as air speed will create volume. Very hard to explain this!!!! but hope everyone understands. :lolcry:

yeah we still have it, but sorry it's not for sale. May see the car again if we go classic racing or rallying. Have thought about making a coffee table out of it, surrounded by all the trophy's it's won, would be a big table!!!! :)

Justin is the man!!! Have seen his wiring jobs and they are perfect!!! Keep it up Justin :)

Good question Andy, mmm Tony knows more about the technical reg's from cams and how to get around them. i think it has something to do with a blue plate, the car has been rego'd before so shouldn't be to much of a problem. It doesn't get driven around the streets, it's trailer'd everywhere so the cops don't get the chance to stop it to check.

Don't know about a Borgie, but with a Banjo, you put more shims in to tighten them up, cheap mans LSD. But it does work, to a degree!!

Hey Rob, there's some new reg's coming out that may let us run under PRC, but failing that we'll run it under RRR, road reg rally car. Yeah body shell wasn't so clean, we started this xmas last year and this is as far as we have got, but it all takes time!!! I'm thinking it maybe another year before it's on the road again, but with alot of improvements. Should be faster than it was before with better handling and traction. Stay tuned!!

More progress on the new shell, now with the inside of the boot and passenager compartment painted. Next will be under the bonnet.

yes they are the same.

yip, on turbo's that would be the way to go. On an NA K engine if you open the ports up it can kill power, that doesn't mean don't clean them up, but don't get carried away. Have seen one head where the guy changed them from square to round and killed the engine power. :P

you were talking about opening up the exhaust ports in an earlier post, don't!!! the exhaust shouldn't flow any more than 80% of the inlet. If you don't believe me try it!! solid lifters in a 7K is not as easy as changing lifters, push rods and adjustable rocker gear. 7k blocks are taller and there isn't any K series push rods longer enough, and i wouldn't think Datsun ones will be any better. saying that it has been done, recently too. if you are that keen to put solids in talk to Teddy. I have said too much!!!

Big port Blue top has a 40mm Big end crank which can break, have seen this in a MR 2 which had 140,000 k's only. They break through No 4 big end. the small port is a far better engine.

here's the address for Palmside: Palmside Dean Buist is the guy you need to email, very helpful, just mention you were talking to Chris Scott, that could be good or bad!!! T series diff's are the way to go, almost a straight bolt in, an AE86 sprinter diff with disc brakes would be the better but these are worth a fortune. Try AE86DC forum's, as they come up quite often. The 4.77 gears with a standard T-50 box is a good starting combo for rallying, if you can get the later sprinter box would be better, larger bearings and output shafts, they handle it better. If you need anymore info, just PM me or TRD(tony).

No mate, the old uprite 5k is been put to rest, probably make a coffee table out of it. The new engine will be twin cam, 4AGE with Juggs!!! thought we'd update to later engine, more reliabilty, parts are easier to come by as well. The ultimate would be for the corolla to win a rally out right, was close with the old car!!

ok, you are most welcome, but it's now uprite, and on it's new stands ready for more hard work.

Most of the seam welding has been done, and the underside has been painted. Now on to under the bonnet and inside the car. Should be close to painting the inside within the next 2 weeks.

smash the middle out of the bearing and then weld around the inside of the rest, the weld contracts as it cools and the bearing will come out easy. only works if you have a welder and are any good at welding, or you could end up welding the bearing to the crank. :jamie:

we use cusco camber tops in the rally car and they are worth the money, 2 years of rallying and the pillow ball has very little wear. Watch out for cheap ones as they can punch the ball out under extreme load.

Penrite make a synthic gearbox oil which is really good, It could be your clutch on it's way out too, or maybe just needs adjusting.

I fell asleep half way though!!!! Boring :y:

Cam Timing?? Vacumn leak at manifold??? Get a can of crc and spray it around the manifold, if the engine starts to run better, you have a leak.

thought i'd update this as it has been a while. Seam welding is almost done. Once we finished welding the underside, it will be painted and put back on to axle stands so we can start on the body work. The engine side of things is also moving along nicely with parts, including fordged pistons, trd cams, and trd flywheel.