TRD ke70

To much toe-in on the front wheels can make it look like that!! Get the wheel alignment checked, make sure you get the print out, then you'll know what's going on.

Today was spent pulling the Brake cylinders back off and fitting the drip tray, as i for got to fit this before. All done now so I moved on to mounting the radiator, had to make up top mounts and Rivnut the bottom mounts into place. Sorry about the shit photos, will take the camera tomorrow and take some decent ones. Tony has finally finished machining the housings for the spherical bushes for the LCA's, so we'll get them welded into the arms tomorrow and then turn up the spacers. Once that's all done, hopefully we can finish putting the front end together.

plug leads!!!

Hey Mitch, would help if we knew what restrictions the class makes on the engine. Myself, stay the f@$k away from a holley carby, if you want bang for buck, dellortto's are the way to go, with a set of K&N filters, stay away from foam filters, they have there place, but they let water through!!! water = BANG!!! Standard valves are good, they just need a little work on the back of the head of the valve and they'll flow well. Spend as my time on the ports as possible, educate yourself about porting, bigger is not always best. Big ports don't create airspeed, it's the shape of the port that is important!!!Get a book called practical gas flow by John Dalton, it's a great little book for the beginner and it's easy to understand. Don't waste your money on conrods unless you are going to rev it to 10,000. there are 2 types of 4k rods, one is an early lite rod, it's good to 8'000, the other is a later rod, it's heavier but is good to 10'000, these are found in most 4 and 5k engines. clean them up and balance them. Pistons, are up to you, forged are the best but expensive. With valve springs, get a good set of singles, as doubles robs to much power from such a small engine. Singles are good to about 8'500. Oh buy yourself a rev limiter as well, f@$ken good insurance!! Electronic ignition also adds power, the standard denso setup is good. get a decent set of extractors, most out there aren't worth shit, pipe size is where it counts. But don't open up the exhaust ports in the head, just clean them up. get yourself a lightened flywheel, this makes the engine accelerate faster. Double row timing chain is a must, and balance everything that rotates. Twin electrode plugs are worth a couple of HP as well, but don't buy bosch ones, there shit, NGK or DENSO they are good. Last thing, what are you running the car in? rally, race??

NO, they don't!! they are almost identical to a ke70 diff, pretty much a bolt in swap if you have everything. But save your money, they are fetching up $1500, but that usually includes a LSD.

I f@$ken knew there was something else, nice work on the bush, but where's the other one? Starter turns up next week, hopefully I'll hear about the TRD valve springs tomorrow.

We have a TRD lightened flywheel, they are really good quality, we use a F1 clutch and pressure plate. But we only have a 200mm flywheel. Brought them of a US supplier, cheaper than buying them in AU. Here's the link clutch

Thanks guys for all the good comments, makes us feel we are doing the right things, although some of the jobs have been done twice to get what we want, but this seams to be the case with any big project. ;) We did consider foam filling the sills, as this was what we use to do when I was at Suzuki sport, problem is I don't know of any suppliers who sell the expandable foam in liquid form. I think the seam welding in the body will be strong enough, but I do know what your saying. Anyhow, Tony is still turning up the housings for the spherical bushes while I finished mounting the pedal box and screwing all the cylinders into place. Yip, that took me all day!!! :lolcry:

No, still have to glass one up from the new genuine toyota chrome one we have!!! :jamie:

Started on the lower control arms today, Tony is turning up the housings (to be welded on to the arms) for the spherical bushes. I've been f@$king around trying to get the piping for the handbrake sorted, and have now moved on to the pedal box. Strengthened the brake pedal mount and sorted the balance out, that's now fitted to the car, along with the clutch master cylinder and the brake master cylinders, just have to finish piping them and that will be all the brake system sorted, hopefully!!! :jamie: Tony finished fitting the mesh to the stone tray, and it looks good, it should do the job keeping grass out of the radiator. :lol:

Thanks mate, glad you like what we are doing. The diff is a JDM sprinter disc brake one, running a 4.78 ratio with TRD lsd, one piece tail shaft, T-50 box running an Albuns gearkit, TRD quick shift, F1 clutch as in earlier photos, engine is 4AGE, with forged pistons, hks cams, 2 x Dellorttos, Alloy pulleys, mmm think that's about it. Should be a sweet little engine.

here is the old engine, manifolds with base plate, engine mounts, oil pick up, gear stick, sump, extractors, all have to be modified or changed.

Thanks Beerhead, that's the old cage from the old car, tri brace was always in there, but because the cage is MANZ and NOT CAMS approved we can run it, if we had a CAMS cage we couldn't, (Stupid f@$ken cams) Sam, beerhead is right about the dry ice, it's the easiest way to remove sound deadening from the inside of the car, for the underneath we use wire bushes on drills and grinders, then paint thinners to remove the last of it, big job!! Seam welding is where you do weld MOST of the seams, not fully, but just stitch welding, so every 25-30mm you have a weld. You don't need to weld every seam, just the important ones, these would be the ones that will add strength to the body shell. Have a look through some of the earlier photos and you'll see where we have welded, to get an idea.

Nope!! It's a Camry :bash: SV21 I think.

Thanks, it's coming together slower than expected, but it all takes time. Should be sweet when she's finished. So this weekend saw the diff all painted and reassembled, just waiting for Tony to finish the trailing arms. have started to run the wiring, but had to stop and mock up the engine and gearbox to make sure I got all the wiring right, hate having to pull shit apart to correct stuff. So this gave us the chance to pull some of the goodies out and trial fit them.

Under the anti-hooning laws she'll be in court next week!! :blush:

Mick, medicine man on rollclub brought a set off a guy in Dunedin who still makes them, but it's only the manifolds with base plate i think. Talk to him or jump on K club, and do a search. Ours were a TRD set, they don't make them anymore!!

No it was another rally car, and he was a mate of ours. Don't forget, power to weight ratio. I'm not sure what diff ratios he ran either, but he was surprised as much as we were. Many times in rally's it would hose 4wd turbos, and the current one does the same, and it's only 1500cc.

If you want to do it correctly, get yourself a degree wheel and a dial gauge. In the spec's it should give you the opening of no 1 inlet valve, in degrees at 50 thou lift. so put the dial gauge on a lifter or push rod, set the engine to TDC, set the degree wheel on the crank with a pointer to 0. Line up the factory timing marks for the cam, that should give you No 1 inlet fully CLOSED, , don't for get to 0 the dial gauge, now rotate the crank until you get the degrees the spec's say for 50 thou lift, you should then have 50 thou lift on your dial gauge. It pays also to check the exhaust lobe as well. Unless you have an adjustable cam gear you won't be able to correct it, you'll find most cams are very close if not perfect with factory marks. Hope this helps mate!!

Nice work!! Need more pic's!!!

Sorry Evan, it was done to a 5k not a 4k. Mick E, the extractors are custom made, cost about $600.

The gearbox was a standard k50, we did have a TRD close box but never used it in rally's as it was shit.(wrong ratios) We bought the last TRD up rite kit that was available in NZ at the time(1988) if i remember right.

Today's effort saw the diff housing painted, so that can go back together with new brake line covering and braided hoses. Also got the battery cable wiring sorted, so that'll be finished shortly, found some mesh at supercheap for behind the grind, perfect for grass and stone protection, that'll be fitted soon as well.

It was a standard bottom end, including pistons, the cam was a 43/78, trd uprite kit, 2 dellortos, ported head with 12:1 cr, running avgas, only revved to 8 grand. nothing special!! But f@$k it went like a dog shot in the ass. Up to 100km it would keep up with a mazda 4wd turbo.

yip you are going down the right path, shim the spider gears, best way is to heat the housing and freeze the gears, then quickly put it together, hitting in the biggest shims that will fit, so when the housing cools and the spider gears warm up it locks everything up. We have done this to Banjo diff's but not a BW. good luck