TRD ke70

Hey Rob, still working on it at the moment, have found another way to do it. Does still include an adapter, but it'll be flush with the head, discovered you can drill the K dizzy shaft as it's not case hardened. Also there are 2 types of 4age dizzy gears, one is pressed on to the shaft, and the other is pinned through the shaft. I'll post some pic's when it's done, and i may do a write up as well, because there is so much bad info out there about which is the best way to do it.

Yip, spot on Matt, if you use larger cylinders it requires more effort to apply the same force to the brake pistons. This is quite a common misconception when it comes to hydraulics, it's the same with hyd handbrakes as well, use a large cylinder and the hand brake will be like rock, use a smaller cylinder and you'll be able to apply more force. The easiest way for me to explain it is: push some one with your hand, it won't hurt them, but poke them with your finger, they'll feel it more. f@$k hope that makes sense!! We have been using this setup since 1990 and it really does supply a good feel with little effort. I'll confirm exactly what size cylinders we use with Tony. Yip they are 5/8 cylinders we use!!!

Thanks for that, will look into it!!

Here's those pic's i promised Matt. I know the cylinder sizes are important other wise the pedal will be like rock hard. I think Tony used 5/8 or 9/16th cylinders, the smaller the better.

Maybe he can't read or follow instructions!! :)

They have nothing!! we have even lightened the wiper relay box. Today we scored a set of solid buckets for the engine, $$$ = FA. Send the rocker covers off to the powder coaters, pick up an alternator, and welsh plugs. Also started machining the adapter to take the electronic K dizzy.

I'll get back to you with some photos Matt. Our setup has the cylinders in the engine bay, keeps it out of the cabin, pedal ratio and cylinder size is the most important. I'll get the sizes for ya tomorrow, i know the pedal ratio is 5:1, where the standard is 3:1, and with the cylinders we have, it gives you a feel like standard. Love the flares, nice job to Mungi Mods, she's looking sweet!!! :(

Wiring is finished, apart from a couple of little things to do under the bonnet. We can start fitting all the dash and stuff into place now. :P Now it's on to the engine stuff now, baffle the sump, clean and assemble the bottom end, then the block can go in.

Hey Matt, wondering what you meant about "Wilwood pedal arrangement"? Do you mean a balance bar for the brake cylinders? If so, let me know and I'll take some snaps of ours, there's a few things you need to know, pedal ratio is one of them.

Trev is on to it. Takes away any chance of the coil been damaged by stones, heat, and water. You'd be surprised how many cars stop after a water crossing in a rally, this is also why we don't run foam air cleaners and we water proof our plug leads and dizzy.

Well all i can say is you didn't look very hard, here's the link. 600+mb Corolla zze122-123

Good to see someone knows and appreciates what crews do, and all the hard work that goes into a rally car behind the scenes, especially if it is a competitive one. If you want to build a rally car, check out TRD's reshell that will give you some idea what's involved. As for car clubs, we(TRD and myself) are members of NDSCC, but it could be a better idea for you to find one closer to home, so you can attend the meetings without driving around the countryside to get there.

reverse lights i remembered, but the reserve light i forgot. :hmm: As for cutting the wrong wires, i have done that a couple of times, was lucky there was plenty of length on them. Who said anything about understanding any of it?? :blinks:

Well, we have pulled finger and got quite a lot of wiring done this weekend. Park and headlight wiring is almost completed, as with most of the dash. Have still to finish a couple of relays for the starter motor and parklights. Need to re-run a wiring back to the fuel tank for the reserve light, forgot to do that when i ran the wiring for the sender unit. Fuse box wiring is the next big job, should take a day or 2. We're thinking another 2 weekends and wiring should be completed. Sandblasted the rocker covers ready to go to the powder coaters this week.

yes to both your questions. you'll need to change the x member over so you'll have the correct mounts. The cranks have the same size mains so you can change it as well. And just for your info, :) try using the search function next time, most questions have been asked before.

I pick that up from supercheap, i think it's from an AE82, because i also grabbed the sv21 camry one as well, but it was a little to short.

Wiring is still continuing, engine has come back from the machine shop, so that will go together sometime. Alternator bracket arrived and we have trial fitted that. Two way and intercom are all wired and screwed in.

having played around with both, I'd say stick with the EFI and just sort out your tuning, side draughts are worth power but like everyone has said, it will cost. Webers aren't the only side draught out there, dellotto's are (IN MY OPINION) a better carby, and cheaper too. The other thing is, you can't bet the sound of a set of well tuned Juggs!!! :jamie:

Have you heard about putting in a 4Y crank and getting it to 2.2-2.4 ltr's?

Toyota don't list it as a separate item, you'll have to pull it apart and take it to a bearing place to have it matched. If possible get a direction seal for it too.

It should also CLICK when you apply power to it.

Not much to report for this week, just wiring and more wiring, F**ken over wiring!!! A lot more stuff has been re-installed into the car, two way, terraphone, tail lights are wired, alternator bracket turned up, now just needs to be lightened. Slowly making my way to the dash wiring. Waiting for the machine shop to finish with the engine bits so we can assemble the bottom end.

Agreed!! a good ported 4k head will out flow a big port any day. It's not the size of the port that makes power it's the shape!!

well you could use the 18mm pin, but if your going to turbo the engine go for the 20mm pin with a 4AGE piston. The rods(4AGE) fit straight onto the crank, but there is a lot of clearance between the side of the rod and crank, this looks to be a problem but it's not, as long as you have a good oil pump and good clearances(not loose) on the crank, our crank is also cross drilled to stop it loosing oil at hi RPM. We have run this setup for 3 years now and it hasn't given a problem, also know of another guy running the same setup and he hasn't had any problems. We had to machine 3mm off the top of the block to get the CR we wanted, if you were using hi compression pistons you may not have to do this. But you'll need to dummy assemble the engine and CC it, as well as the head to get the exact CR. hope this clears up some stuff.

Do you have this? Toyota_KE70_AC_Manual.pdf