TRD ke70

Dave, there maybe a small chance of needing you for the 2011WRC working on the Polo if you are interested. I'm heading down to kyogle this weekend to burn down the forest, see how the greenies like it when i f@$k with what they love!!! :yes:

On the money there Cam,3k's (not sure if all of them are the same) has a steel pick up that unbolts from the oil pump housing and is the one to use when upriting a K engine. 7k's also have an unbolt-able pick up, almost identical to the 3k.

Strangely enough we had this problem in the weekend. We brought a cap off ebay, and it wouldn't screw into the cam cover we had on the engine, but it did screw into the spare cam covers. PM TRD member, he has the TRD parts books.

I'd just replace all the leads, other wise you'll just chase the problem around the leads until you've replaced all of them anyhow. NGK FTW!!!

yeah i wouldn't waste my time with a straight cut gear kit, even if you are chasing every last HP. They break too easy compared to a helical cut gear set. A dog setup on the other hand would be great in the rally car, not having to clutch on the down changes frees up a foot to do other things (left foot braking), but the H patten shifter wouldn't help the box any. Really need a sequential shift with a engine cut to get the best out of them. Money would be better spent on a good close ratio gearset,as long as everything else in the car is right!!!

Dog and straight cut are two different things. Both are a rare in a T50, but they have been done before. Straight cut gears are mechanically more efficient but weaker. While the dog is referring to the way the gear select. If you are looking for better ratios, Albins will do any ratio for $500-600 a gear. Albins

If you have a stick welder, you can get cast craft welding rods from BOC, they aren't cheap but they do a great job. You won't need to pre-heat the block either with these rods. But there is 2 types, you need to get the right ones. Boc should be able to help you with that. I use to weld blocks, manifolds and heads with these rods, they are great, but a little tricky to use.

Thanks Jimi. The engine guy flow tested the head, and he did say that she will be a howler. :rolls: Apparently it was howling on the flow bench. :yes:

Good week for getting stuff done. Head came back from the machinist, so it's now fitted. So Tony has started with bolting the manifolds up while I spend today fabricating the box for the fuel tank bowl and fuel pump to sit into. If all goes well, we should start to see the engine been slowly stitched together over the next couple of weeks.

Hey mate, mmm so you are from Milton Keynes. the home of F1 teams, Monster sport Europe and few other rally teams. Anyhow irokin is the guy to PM about site sponsoring, also you might want to read this link Welcome!!!

Means we can run a nice safe advance curve, with the engine running such a hi CR (11.5)running on 98. we can dial back the ignition and lose a few HP's and know the engine will survive!!! Because it's rallying and not racing we need reliability.

the 4k onto a flat top piston 5k will lift the CR cause the 4k has a smaller combustion camber in the head. Remember I'm talking about a 5k with flat top pistons, they have a thicker head compared to a dished piston head. the difference in blocks is, one hasn't got welsh plugs down the camshaft side(most common) the other has welsh plugs and a small welsh plug under the thermostat housing from what i remember.

I thought you said you wouldn't get carried away with porting it and getting too much HP??? :bash: Guess we'll have to de-tune it now!! :yes: :no2: :hmm:

Yeah you are right, they are really uncommon. Seems to be that a lot of these guys don't know what type of 5k's they have, so some of the questions can gave two answers. I did find out a couple of years ago that there is 2 different 5k blocks as well. Again the other block was uncommon as i haven't seen one again.

Depends if it's a flat top 5k, if yes, a 4k head would up CR.

We were trying to figure out where we loss 80gs from! :hmm: Can't put it down to just a couple of things, but a whole lot of things. All the under seal was removed and the body washed down, excess brackets were removed, rewired the whole car with the least amount of wiring required, all non-structural bolts were replaced with either alloy or titanium bolts, only 4 liters of top coat was used and 4 liters of primer. all protruding bolts were cut off, foil tape and expandable foam was use instead of steel patches, plastic cable tie bases were used instead of steel clamps, strategical use of the hole saw. :hmm: I'm sure there is more, but i think you see there isn't just one or two things. And the good bit, there is more to weight come out, every time i look at anything, i see weight!! :lolcry:

Umm, the R/R is a little heavy, but it's quite difficult to get them perfect, but we'll do a final weigh on the car when finished and see if we can get it closer. Generally it's pretty good. Trev: we did look at that, but the co-driver is usually (sorry to all the co-drivers) heavier than the driver. :hmm: It should be quite a weapon with 170hp and only 800kgs. :dance: I still think there is more weight in the car to come out, so it could be lighter still!! :o Sorry Dave, only had the scales for the night, they need to go back cause the guy use's them in his business.

Well a very interesting night. I managed to borrow some motorsport scales, thought it'd be interesting to see what it weighed. 797kg's with everything in it, and i mean everything!!! :yes: What was surprising is the corner weights and the weight splits. The car has the same weight splits as the old car, 51/49. :yes: The picture is of the scales, it shows in POUNDS, so if want to check it, please do!! The old car weighed 880 kg's, so we have loss 80kg's out of the car and it has a heavier engine. :hmm:

Thanks Guys. Still heaps to do, next big step is the carbon fiber door panels and the glass boot, bumpers and bonnet. Then that'll be most of the big stuff done.

4 speed or 5 speed??? I'm assuming it's a K engine.

Yeah it's an oil cooler, it's not run off a standard 4age filer housing as those are only bypass oil coolers. Still trying to work out which way it needs to face and find the right connectors for it.

I thought they were the Zenith carbs off a MK3 Zephyr!! But i was wrong, good way to hide the fact you have EFI!!

Yeah Trev as Tony doesn't have an engine hoist, he's too tight fisted to buy one!!! :rolls: Also it means it's out of my way so I can do other things without tripping over it.

New engine is freshly painted, along with mounting brackets, TRD engine mounts are on, as are the water pump and alternator bracket. So we decided to fit the into the car. Hopefully that'll be where it stays for sometime. :lolcry: Also got the rebuilt gearbox ready for fitting but now have to wait for the flywheel to be machined, no point putting on a new clutch, pressure plate etc, only to have pull it back off again, so will have to wait a couple of days. New fuel tank should be here this week as well.

We use to run the CB4's with a 1.5mm spacer and no inner. But can't remember the installed height of the valve. Performance springs recommended 3mm spacer with the inner installed. personally i thought that was WAY too much seat pressure!! This was in the old 5k rally engine that only saw 7,500rpm so the spring pressures didn't need to be very high. Can be quite easy to put excessive pressures on the springs, i remember the 3k-B had blue valve springs that were rated at 70lb seat pressures, we used them in our 1300cc 4k rally engine which saw 8,000rpm and only replaced them once over 3 years. Probably the best advice is: don't get too carried away with seat pressures and double valve springs, you can use up HP to open and close valves and also increased valve train wear.